LIGHTS FOR CCW AND LAW ENFORCEMENT

[watchmaker]

THE UTG BARREL MOUNT

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Hi guys,
For those wanting a barrel mount for a flashlight or laser, I have had good
results with the UTG barrel mount.
Initially purchased for an AK rifle, I found out that it can be mounted in
other rifle barrels, for example, it fits perfectly in a .22 rifle and also in
a Mini 14 I have.

It is a tri-rail mount with three Picattiny rails that will also accept Weaver
style rings. My model is the #2 mount which have two slots; the UTG is also
available with five slots that will accommodate the red dots scopes that are
in the market.

Picture of the UTG # 2 [/FONT]
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Another view [/FONT]
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The UTG fully loaded with two TACM III tactical lights (one with a red filter)
and a laser.[/FONT]
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The UTG is sold by Cheaper than Dirt and I imagine others places that cater to
tactical rifles. Just look in their catalogue in the AK accessories page.

Cheers
Watchmaker [/FONT]

[watchmaker]

FLASHLIGHTS FOR SELF DEFENSE


As strange as it sounds, some flashlights are used for self defense quite often in daily life.
Sometimes by professionals Police Officers in a way to avoid using deadly force in confrontations with suspects, and other times by civilians that are not permitted to carry lethal weapons.


In the US we have it quite good in that we are allowed to carry short knives and some others implements but in the majority of Europe such activities are illegal or highly frowned upon by the authorities.
If you defend yourself with a baseball bat even in your own home in certain countries you have to give reason for why you have such an implement with you.


Other lights use others means of incorporating defense mechanisms in their construction. I am thinking now about the ARES Defense Companion, a Maglite with 3 cells that incorporates a shotgun of 410 gauge (only one picture is circulating in the Internet and I think is not in production) or the Tiger Light that incorporates a pepper spray canister, or the several models of Surefire that come with crenellated bezels (one example is the popular E2D executive Defender).


Surefire was the first (to my knowledge) at popularizing the crenellated bezel and the SureFire Institute offers a class in basic defensive tactics called “The power of Light” which is open to all qualified civilians as well as law enforcement professionals .
The course is taught by certified instructor Steve Tarani (shown below delivering a carotid strike).




The Borealis flashlight can be had with the optional heavy stainless steel crenellated bezel that is offered in a limited production run.
Such bezels add 3 ounces to the weight of the head and the bezel even that is not actually sharp will be a good imitation of the broken beer bottle.

I don’t think that an aggressor, if he is in his right mind, will confront such a weapon that first will blind him with 1050 lumens and then is ready to rearrange his facial features.


The Royal Borealis uses a Quick Detach Swivel, that when used only with the nub for the lanyard, can be very hard on skulls and noses.





This old Borealis model sports the heavy 3 inch head (the head is now out of production), more resembling a medieval mace. This is also a fantastic throw monster reaching over several hundred yards.





I have in my long association with the flashlight Industry seen a few models which spray OC from the front of the lens, flashlight that also incorporate a screaming siren, flashlights that incorporate a stun gun and others weird contraptions all of them gone from the market now.

What seems to prevail is just a good weight reliable flashlight that can be used as a baton or with the new crenellated bezels and the introduction of really powerful MEGA lights capable of blinding an assailant.


Best regards,
Watchmaker

[ghrit]

My understanding of the crenelated bezels was that they were for LEOs and EMTs to crash thru car windows (or similar) during rescue operations more than as a weapon per se. As a weapon, specialized training would be required, and seems to me that other arms normally carried would be distinctly preferable to using a flashlight. I certainly appreciated multi purpose tools, but in my limited experience, multi function does none of them well. That said, those you posted have a mean look about them.

[watchmaker]

Unless you use a heavy stainless steel crenellated bezel like in the Borealis, the others made of aluminum are a poor tool for auto-glass.

Initially the crenellated bezels were used to let light escape when you put the flashlight head down. (So you know the light is still on and avoid scorching the counter)

To break automotive glass, the but of the flashlight is used, even one outfitter propossed a carbide insert in a optional tail cap for the Maglite. (See picture)



If you want something similar, you can drill a hole and install a solid brass or steel drawer pull from Home Depot.

If you doubt that the bezels are intended for striking flesh, look at these pictures.









The Borealis have an optional low profile, stainless steel, rounded crenellated bezel, without sharp corners, here is the picture.



Best regards
Watchmaker

[ghrit]

That helped. I have seen one of those with the tip in the butt. Now, I can't help wondering when those things will be found to be deadly weapons.

[Seacowboys]

Originally Posted by ghrit

That helped. I have seen one of those with the tip in the butt. Now, I can't help wondering when those things will be found to be deadly weapons.

next time there is anything that can be screwed and spin-milled into a Rodney King incident

[watchmaker]

VERY INTERESTING ARTICLE BY JAMES MAURER

ON THE BRIGHTEST LIGHTS IN THE WORLD

THAT YOU CAN GET OVER THE COUNTER.

THEY ARE ALL THERE

THE TORCH, THE POLARION, THE BOREALIS,

THE SUNFORCE, ETC.

READ IT IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN LIGHTS

http://www.jamesmaurer.com/worlds-brightest-flashlight.asp

CHEERS

[Tackleberry]

Looking to throw a light on a rail on the bottom of an AR. Want something that can also use an IR lense...don't want to break the bank either.

[ghrit]

Tack, what is your issue light? Any good?

[Tackleberry]

Originally Posted by ghrit

Tack, what is your issue light? Any good?

I was issued a Streamlight. I don't know off hand the model number. It works well when it works. It has a habit of going out, and I need to smack it to get it to come back on. It occasionally gets its guts changed out via our supply guy.

I have a small light (cyclops) I carry on my belt. It is about the same size as the original Surefire, uses two 123 size batteries, and cost $20 for two at Sams Club a few years back.

[ghrit]

Originally Posted by Tackleberry

I was issued a Streamlight. I don't know off hand the model number. It works well when it works. It has a habit of going out, and I need to smack it to get it to come back on. It occasionally gets its guts changed out via our supply guy.

I have a small light (cyclops) I carry on my belt. It is about the same size as the original Surefire, uses two 123 size batteries, and cost $20 for two at Sams Club a few years back.

Thanx. Streamlight just went off my list.

[watchmaker]

Originally Posted by Tackleberry

Looking to throw a light on a rail on the bottom of an AR. Want something that can also use an IR lense...don't want to break the bank either.

IR lenses cost a bundle and cheap lights don't offer that option.
You are forced to go with Surefire (6PL) and buy the IR from their web site.

Try the Malkoff devices 260 lumens lamp in that 6PL for a really intense light.

Cheers
Watchmaker

[watchmaker]

REMOTE SWITCHES

WITH PRESSURE PAD

Hi guys,
I have been using remote switches in my tactical lights that are mounted in rifles, shotguns, and bows, for quite a few years now.
The most effective of them are the ones with a direct connection to the solder pad that touch the battery (no spring), like the ones in the TACM III tactical lights.
The reason that they are more effective is that they don’t rob the system of any voltage (in the way of internal resistance) as do the ones with heavy springs.

Internal resistance is the name of the game, some of them, for example the TAC STAR pressure switch, can really make a bright lamp like the P-60, looks dim and murky, due to too much internal resistance in the design of the tail cap.

THE TAC STAR REMOTE SWITCH



A good one that I have used for years in mounting lights on my friends’ bows and rifles, is the G&P tail cap with remote. Its design is quite good and the internal resistance is low, but it is not designed for pump shotguns as the cord is just straight and not curly.

THE G&P REMOTE SWITCH



A very good one that I discovered recently is the Aimshot curly cord remote, the spring is copper and quite light and it seems to have very low internal resistance.
I discovered the Aimshot in Cheaper Than Dirt catalogue and at a very good price ($14.97) and it has become my favorite.
I just used one in a Pelican M-6 tactical light and mounted it using a UTG Tri rail mount in an AK rifle, it does the job well.

THE AIMSHOT REMOTE SWITCH



Cheers
Watchmaker

[watchmaker]

THE 200 LUMENS BATTLE

There are now a number of aftermarket lamps for the popular series of Surefire lights.
They will fit the Surefires series: 6P, C, Z, D, G, and maybe others.

I just received a new one that claims 290 lumens and is called a Cree R-2 (it’s supposed to be even more powerful than the Cree Q-5).
I decided to do a shoot out with an assortment of lights that I have in the 200 plus lumens class. That way the members can see how they perform against each other.

Run time was not measured for lack of time and because I am running short on 123’s batteries. The bigger lights, namely the Surefire M-4 with the MN60 lamp (225 lumens for 60 minutes on four 123’s disposable batteries) and the Bear Cub from Black Bear Flashlights (220 lumens for 90 minutes on rechargeable Li Ion batteries) are big throwers and with them you can see clearly objects 120 and 150 yards away.

On the other hand the small reflectors of the Surefires G-2, Centurion 2 and Fenix T-1 are dispersing all those lumens close by, creating a great flood.
Those pocket lights will be great to use as tactical lights by law enforcement personnel, and especially good at clearing houses, while the Surefire M-4 and the Bear Cub will make great lights for car, truck and the open spaces.

The literature of the Fenix states that it’s good for 200 yards, it will probably make a reflective target like a stop sign glow at that distance, but it would hardly illuminate any other object. My perception from trials I made, is that this light as well as the others LED’s can’t be count to illuminate (poorly) objects beyond 60/70 yards.


In any case, a lamp upgrade if you own a Surefire pocket light, is a good idea as any of them are more powerful than the stock incandescent lamp of 65 lumens or the stock LED lamp of 80 lumens.


The lights as they appear in the picture are, from left to right:


Surefire M-4 MN60 lamp 225 lumens for 1 hour (running on four 123’s batteries)
Bear Cub 220 lumens for 90 minutes, rechargeable
Surefire G-2 in yellow. It is 65 lumens for one hour with the stock P-60 lamp
Surefire G-2 in black, Lumen Factory lamp incandescent of 160 lumens
Surefire G-2 in green, Cree Q-5 by Deal Xtreme, 200 lumens
Surefire Centurion 2 in Jungle Camo, 290 lumens (claimed) with the Cree R-2 lamp
Fenix T-1, 225 lumens using a Cree Q-5 lamp




And now the pictures, target is 20 yards away, watch also the amount of side spill as well as the throw.

SUREFIRE M-4 DESVASTATOR 225 LUMENS



BEAR CUB RECHARGEABLE 220 LUMENS



SUREFIRE G-2 YELLOW 65 LUMENS



SUREFIRE G-2 BLACK LUMENS FACTORY 160 LUMENS LAMP



SUREFIRE G-2 GREEN, DEAL XTREME LAMP CREE Q-5 200 LUMENS



SUREFIRE CENTURION 2, CREE R-2 290 LUMENS (CLAIMED)



FENIX T-1 CREE Q-5 225 LUMENS





One word of caution with high intensity LED lights: most are not thermally regulated and they will suffer from their own heat if used for an extended period. They will get very hot and the tint will change. Short use of 5 minutes or less is recommended, especially in lights like the G-2 that has a plastic body and head.

All metal flashlights like the Surefire 6P are better at dissipating the heat, and in them a few more minutes of constant use can be achieved before the heat will damage the module.
The big heavy head of the Fenix acts as a heat sink, and this light can manage to run much longer without the heat affecting the module.

Besides, the Fenix has a second setting that will run the light at 60 lumens for 10 hours.
So, if you already have a Surefire you want to upgrade, the aftermarkets lamps are great.
If you need a new light look at the Fenix line.

If you need a truck, open spaces light, the Bear Cub is a great value as it is rechargeable and very bright as well as a 150 yards thrower.

Cheers
Watchmaker

[Quigley_Sharps]

Watchmaker Im glad you made it, welcome aboard.