Does anyone know an easy way to remove rust from tools? I have an old table saw that I bought that still works, but the top is coated with rust, which doesn't appear to be too deep yet. TIA!
if it's just surface rust, use steelwool. I have also used the green scotchbrite pads as well. If it is deeper and there is pitting, you will have to be careful you don't make pits in the surface getting the rust off. Once the rust is gone, coat the top with "paste wax". apply a coat then buff it off. This will leave a smooth, protective finish on the work surface. Good luck
Thanks! I appreciate the instruction; it looks like a little elbow grease needs to be used after all...
I have worked in auto body for 30 years and the best thing that I have found to take off rust is a product called Evapo-rust made by Harris international laboratories 1-888-329-9877. It is available at Auto zone. The cool thing about it is if you put it in a pan and keep taking rust off with it will turn black when this happen you can put a piece clean steel in it and it will give it a very tuff black oxide coating. I had a acid bottle burst in an out of the way corner. The tools that were there were heavily rusted and Evapo-rust cleaned them up as good as new very quickly.
Hmm, might have to try this on my truck. I have some areas with just surface rust (and other areas that are GONE, due to rust. what can i say, the truck was used in MN for 22 years, i'm surprised there's any metal left). Since I can't afford to take it in and get the body work done now, I was going to get the surface rust cleaned up and primed to prevent further rusting. Got any tips? I guess this is a blatent thread hijack Thanks
I kind of thought others might be interested in the subject... I'm going to try WestPointMag's suggestion on some old (very old) tools I have - even on the Table Saw, which (fortunately) hasn't cut any body parts (hopefully ever), and possibly on my '81 Ram 50 pickup truck (which is also being held together by "rust"). [How's that for a sentence :^] My 10x10 shed needed it's roof replaced, so it was helpful to use the Scary Table Saw, but the power circular saw was more useful for this work of art. The power circular saw was also quite dangerous, but, fortunately, it only damaged one of the plastic saw horses (not my fault, of course:^). I also blame it for causing me to measure only once, instead of twice, and I wasted a big chunk of plywood :^)
Primer WILL not stop metal from rusting it will slow it down but it will not stop it. Primer and body putty are both water permeable {porous} water will run right through them, I clean my putty spreaders by putting the under the down spout. There are some 2 part primers that will work but the stuff that you buy in the rattle can will not stop rust. The can must say “sandable or at least indicate on the can some where that it can be sanded, some the primers sand like chewing gum read before you buy. I use a lot of spray can primer, I like being able to cover the metal as soon as I am done with it and the rattle can primer washes right off with a little thinner. There are some spray rust converters on the market the are weld friendly so you do not have to sand the stuff back off to weld. For the most part body panels are cheep for trucks if you post some photos of the truck it will help me figure out what you need to do. If you use water base undercoating you can spray it on the back side then weld. My welder is portable and my generator will run it so all you need to have on sight is air. I am also a sheet metal finisher and I will travel to do the job if it is within a 100 miles. A car that I did some of the metal work on just won best in world.
Yep, NEVER rely on primer to prevent rust! In my "young&stupid" days, I primed my old '75 Firebird and left it in grey primer for a few months. Big mistake! It looked like it had the measels! Brownish rust spots all over it! Had to completely strip, sand and reprime before painting. My Dad has his power tools in his boathouse - the whole front is open, with an overhang roof. Rain can't get in, but it does get humid. His table saw is right near the front. He keeps it sprayed in WD40, and it has a dark brown patina but no real rust. Been there for thirty years and still cutting wood!
Here are some close ups of the truck. This is the hood. The paint has "flaked" away leaving only an undercoat (primer?) behind. this area has some surface rust. Here is a close-up of the hood & Fender. The fender has the most rust. This is a closeup of the drivers door. The rust spot here is about a quarter in size. This is a shot of the lower part of the drivers door and the extended cab. And here is the lower portion of the extended cab. this would be immediatly to the right of the above photo. So, is it worth trying to repair? If not, I'll just drive this truck till the sheet metal falls off or the frame rusts away, which ever comes first. And for the record I DID drive an '80 Chevy Chevette until the frame rusted away!! Thanks in advance. Let me know if you need different/better pictures. Edited to add a picture of the roof:
I have a black rifle could you tell me what kind of bullet tips it takes? Year, make and model would be helpful.
I use this technique: rust removal by scraping, brushing sanding in that order, then rust conversion via a good chemical as mentioned. When cured I use multiple zinc coatings. Since it works in submerged ship uses, I follow that with a two-part epoxy primer for submerged metal uses as from Sherwin-Williams. My truck had problems but they are cured with the above process. Laus Deo overbore
