I just put one of these on a shotgun. Anybody have one and have comments on it--I'm specifically interested if it will take the jarring of a 12 gauge. If not, I may put it on a Ruger MkIII.
I am looking at these for my ar so i can do a 1/3 co witness, However after watching a few online videos from nutnfancy as referenced above i may just go with a 1-4 power scope. Most of my ranges are going to be from 25-200 yards, I have a 12 gauge 870 for house sweeping.
The biggest problem I have with Bushnell is that they work ok right up until you need them the most, then they shit the bed. I think it's that "Made in China" thing. I may have a bit of prejudice, but I will spend the extra money on a Leupold or Aimpoint or Trijacon or NightForce rather than trying to save a few dollars on the front end. It only hurts once that way.
I have a Bushnell red dot that has loosened and fallen off an AR twice. It is now on the shelf, not the gun.
I didn't locktight it, just torqued it as hard as the clamp screw would take snugging it down on the Picatinny rail. "The Plan" was to eventually replace it with a scout type scope, and really didn't want it too permanent, nor require heat to take it off.
I've never needed heat to loosen something. I use blue on my guns and Harley and have never had anything loosen. I have Aimpoints on my ARs, but I chose something cheaper for the shotgun because I wanted to mess around with slugs.
Coincidentally, I've been looking at them for a 12g and a mkIII. I haven't ordered one yet, but I keep looking at the vortex sparc as well as the trs25. Are there any other miniRDS under $200 that deserve consideration? I'm not staking my life on it. But I do want to crush the competition when bowling pin season starts this month!
If you are removing blue loctite without heat; the cleanliness of your threads were not prepared to Loctite's standards or the length of thread engagement is too short. Although the site is in Australia; it is a Loctite corporate web site. The ability to remove Loctite with hand tools varies by thread engagement; or a couple of threads should break with hand tools. However, the only free cheese is in a mouse trap. Using steel as an example, if the thread is M4 a rough rule of thumb for steel is 1.5 times the thread diameter is the proper engagement or 6mm. As the material thickness is too thin for proper length of thread engagement; inexpensive optic mounting systems violate that rule of thumb. For exampe expensive rings use more screws with proper length of engagement or they do not violate it. With proper torque and tightening pattern; thread locking compounds are not a necessity as they are with systems which use thin materials. My profession is design engineering in the automotive sector, both commercial diesel and passenger cars. The reality gets a lot deeper quickly; but the 1.5 to 1.75 times the thread diameter is an industry rule of thumb for steel, cast iron, stainless steel etc. Aluminum and others (magnesium, high temperature alloys etc require a larger multiplier. This is pretty much an industry standard so I am not sharing any of my employer's proprietary design standards. Aimpoints are very good but lose with FOV for night vision applications to EO Tech. Night Vision Compatibility | L-3 EOTech - Holographic Weapons Systems
Anyone play with a Vortex SPARC? I'm kind of fond of the 2 moa dot size. Nothing else in the price range has that small of a dot and a lifetime warranty. At least none that I know of.
