What are you driving?

Few weeks ago @Dunerunner mentioned maybe we should have a car thread, all things regarding vehicles. What are you driving? Is it your bug out vehicle? What about new vehicles? What are the issues you are having with your truck, car or SUV? Praise, problems etc.....

 

I drive the all electric nissan leaf.
It costs almost nothing to drive compared to a gasoline power car.
It's only good for short trips.
It kind of sucks in the cold.
The cold kills it's range.
The less heat you use the better as it pulls power from the battery to provide heat, it doesn't have nearly unlimited heat like a gasoline powered vehicle.

 

I have an issue with a car and need mechanical wisdom. My Dad was a mechanic for 50 years. But now i am asking members.... I acquired a 2017 Nissan Rogue because I stupidly co-signed on a car loan for a family member. Never co-sign on a car loan unless you want to buy the car, bottom-line. That is not the problem. The Rogue has 31,049 miles on it. I had always heard a creak in the front when I went over speed bumps. Yesterday I felt a grinding. I drove it right to the dealership. Got message yesterday evening, diagnosis: Struts and bearings are gone and need to be replaced. I have a bumper to bumper warranty but that only covers the non-moving, I forget how they phrase it. Brakes, tires etc are not covered under the bumper to bumper but are struts and bearings in the same category as brakes? The dealership is still closed and I need to call them but they are having to special order the parts in. I am still having trouble accepting struts and bearings needing replacing after 31,000 miles. can this happen?? or is that a defect?

PS- after I turned the Rogue in for repairs, I needed a pick me up. I went and rented a Dodge Charger. I have never liked Dodges but this Charger is amazing. It has a Hemi, dual exhaust but sounds like a 70's muscle car, fun as anything. Everyone who gets in it smiles. After riding around in 4 cylinder cars for years this Charger is so cool.

 

Sure "struts and bearings needing replacing after 31,000 miles" it all depends on driver and area driven in.

 

Are you serious? This may not be covered under warranty? I have a Toyota that has never had this issue and it has 120,000. Older cars have this issue. What do you mean driver and area? In what circumstances could what I thought as solid parts fail after so little miles?

 

Major pot holes and rail road tracks is a killer of suspension. Driver's inattention to road conditions combined with speed kills suspension.
Cross over vehicles are not trucks, front wheel drive cross overs are not trucks.
In doubt look at the suspension on a Tacoma Pre Runner. Not only is it more robust but the quality of the OEM parts for the Pre Runner is not OEM parts but is a higher quality after market part.

I have watched as a vehicle's front suspension fell apart as it was driven at 30 mph over an angled off camber rail road track. A place that I never took above 10mph and only then as I approached it at a 90 degree angle.

Driver is key to longevity of any vehicle.

 

That is what we found is the downfall to the Leaf. The cold and that it is an urban get about car. it is not made for rural or hill type driving and come winter, it is best to have a back up vehicle. Fun little cars but not for people with commutes IMO. They even tell you when you purchase a Leaf to sign up for AAA because they know you will be running out of power often.

 

Simple answer, yes, those parts need not be covered if the paperwork says not, and yes they are usually considered wear parts. And yes, failure that soon is possible if the vehicle was mistreated. I'm betting that the person you signed for abused the car as well as taking advantage of your generous nature.

 

I live close to work by design.
It's only about 15 miles each way then it's 26 miles each way to get to the lows in the next town over.
The scrap yard where I get all kinds of goodies is 20 miles each way.
I am concerned rual.
The leaf will probably go 100 miles in the city, it seems like it will go all day in stop and go traffic up to 35mph.
I drive mine up to 1,500 per month mostly short highway trips and no public chargers.

 

People have been giving me money to fix cars all my adult life. It used to be old, worn out cars that needed repair or restoration. Lately it's nearly new cars that are falling apart because of design failures.

We don't use quality Harrison radiators and heater cores because they're expensive and last forever.
Instead we use a one size fits all aluminum heater core with o-ringed, clipped in place inlet and outlet pipes. Most of the interior has to come out to replace these things, and they're springing leaks before.the first oil change.

Next design failure is holes in the roof. My 401k has gotten fat from this. brand new cars with nine holes in the steel roof to put a third brake light above the rear glass. This guarantees leaks into the interior, and to make things worse
they locate electronic modules in the lowest point of the trunk. A slow leak will cause slow corrosion, while a larger leak will submerge the modules and eventually cause a wave that goes over back seat on a hard stop.

I only own old beaters without sunroofs, antennas, or other holes in the roof panel. My youngest hasn't quite made the quarter million mile mark yet. My 300D has just shy of 300k and is about as EMP proof as I can get it.

 

2015 RAM 1500 4x4 Quad cab PU here w/ 61/2' bed. It has the 5.7 liter Hemi and aftermarket dual exhaust. I get the claimed 17 MPG on road trips. I like it quite a bit. Lots of power when I want it, and 4 cylinders coast when not needed. Very handy rig. I upgraded the factory radio with a Kenwood unit that has built in navigation, Apple Play, and both front and rear cameras.

I wanted a Ram 2500 diesel 4x4 w/ crew cab and 8' bed, but the price on this one was right. No buyer's remorse whatsoever, and I still have Dad's 2500 V10 for hauling and utility.

 

2015 Nissan Murano with all the bells and whistles. I like it, gets good mileage, comfortable. Bought it second hand from CarMax with the full extended warranty (I doubt I will ever buy another new vehicle, ever).

Wife has a 2014 Pathfinder. Not quite as many bells and whistles. Enjoys it and the plan is to replace that with another when the time comes (CarMax, to be sure).

MY next vehicle will be a truck. Have not yet decided between...
Ford F150
Ford F250
Chevrolet Silverado
RAM 1500
Toyota Tundra
Nissan Titan
However, I'm going to the auto show next weekend and this model year will potentially be what I buy in 3 years. I am not as brand loyal as I once was so the field is wide open.

It will be an extended/crew cab (seating for 5 adults comfortably). It will have the highest class hitch and receiver for the vehicle capabilities but not be 5th wheel capable. It will not be a dually. I have not yet made up my mind on 4-wheel drive. I am already resigned to never parking in the garage of this house.

Something that came to mind was getting out of town if there is a fire or nuclear emergency (we have several plants around). I refuse to be stuck in the middle lane in gridlock. I WILL be able to go off-road if I need to.

 

Well bless your heart @merken, you never fail at a chance to troll me.

Back to cars.....
I have a 2013 Toyota Rav4. It is the best car I have ever owned. I drove it off the lot brand new and never once had a regret. It has lived up to the Toyota reputation. It handles very well in the snow, has had few repairs. I have done all maintenance as recommended. It averages about 24 mpg. It is roomy and has good visibility. That is one thing I notice about new cars is that the rear is always higher, back windows seem shielded. Salesmen always say you have a back-up camera when I question visibility, IMO that is not the same. The only thing I dislike is the lack of towing capacity. I have seen Rav's with trailers on back but the manufactures tow recommendations are real low.

I have owned many cars, most were second hand which was basically buying someones poorly maintained cast off. I had a 5 Series BMW that was the best ride, solid but the repairs were too expensive. Once it got to a certain age, it was too costly for up-keep. I had a Subaru and they are known for head gasket issues, this I learned after purchase, someone else did the research prior to purchase. Had a Plymouth min van that was great but the slider doors kept breaking. It was a nightmare dealing with three kids and having to get them in an out of the front doors. I had a Kia mini van and that only last about a year. I got rid of that quick. My windshield wipers broke from the box. Kia said their wipers were not meant to wipe snow. I live in Colorado!!!

 

The Big Red Thunder Chicken 2001 2500 doge Laramie Cummins Diesel 24.7 MPG on the highway around 9 mpg in town and back roads with a aftermarket custom chip set. Bought it new in 2001 and replaced a failing rear end in 2010 with a better ratio for highway travel. Rebuilt the front end with heavier aftermarket parts in 2014. Put a better turbo on it than factory in 2017. Still pulls my tri axle GN trailer with 28,000 pounds of tractors on it without breaking a sweat after almost 18 years. I am going to retire it to farm and feed hauling only and put a 10' dump bed on it in 2020 and get a new one for road use as the Thunder Chicken is getting to that age when little things start adding up. Things like the AC breaking, the headliner falling down, speedometer and tach stopped working and it ain't exactly a pretty truck with the various dents and scratches but still a damn good work horse.

 

Ouch.

This one really hurts to read.

First: NEVER go to the dealership first. Go to a mechanic you can trust for the initial diagnosis.

Second: NEVER trust the diagnosis from a dealership. They lie like politicians, and they rape the wallets of the trusting.

Third: READ THE TERMS of your written warranty. Dealerships can and do lie like the utter scumbags they frequently are. Anyhow, who buys a warranty that covers NONE of the moving parts? Non-moving parts don't wear out. Windshields are a good example. They don't wear out but they can get smashed, so a nice warranty MAY be good for your non-moving windshield. If the terms of the warranty are hard to understand, be aware that they are written EXPRESSLY to be hard to understand.

That's so they can cheat you.

Find someone you trust to to explain every line to you in a way that makes them easy for you to understand.

BTW: Most warranties cover moving parts--just not the ones that are expected to wear out in normal use: tires, brakes, and wiper blades, for example. A water pump moves, but is not supposed to wear out so it should be covered. You will never know what's covered until you understand the terms of your warranty.

Fourth: When the mechanic puts your vehicle up on the lift, you should be standing right beside him and he should physically show you what part(s) have failed, and be able to explain exactly how and why they failed.

Okay: After all that, if the dealership denies your warranty claims, you should get a written estimate from them. And from three other non-dealership mechanics. Why bother to do all that? It may take all day--(and it may save you $3,000.00).

Sadly, in this case the dealership already has the car. EXPECT to get bent over the fender in their parking lot.

However, all is not lost. Find an attorney that will represent you, and get his card. AFTER you understand that the work is covered by your warranty (if it is) flatly refuse to pay for any covered work. Demand your rights. Demand your car. If necessary, hand over the attorney's card, and tell them you aren't going to put up with being cheated. Explain to the Most High Poobah of the dealership that they WILL make it right or you WILL go for maximum damages, and enjoy both winning and spending them.

Now, on the mechanicals:

Struts don't fail. Period. Barring an auto smash, they should be immortal.

Bearings ( or, more accurately "bushings") can fail, but shouldn't after only 31,000 miles.
That's nothing in the way of mileage, these days. Suspension bushings should be good for 300,000 miles.

If a bearing/bushing has gone bad, only the bad component needs to be replaced.

And here were get into the dark underbelly or auto manufacturers--who (as in this case) often bundle parts so you have to buy much more than you want or need.

Why should they sell you an alternator diode for $6.00, when they can force you to buy a whole new alternator for $200.00? Why should they sell you one little strut bushing for $12.00 when they can force you to buy a whole new front end for $2,000.00?

You pay or you start walking to work. And everywhere else.

Modern automobiles are designed to progressively fail, and are designed to not be repairable by their owners. They are designed to suck as much money out of your wallet as possible.

So, look at this:


It's too late for this kind of solution here. But it does show a better way of thinking. If homemade bushing seem scary, one can always hire someone to go to a junkyard and pull good bushings out of a junk car. Maybe one hit from behind, for example.

BTW: YouTube can be an invaluable reference source. Arm yourself with knowledge before you deal with people who make their living cheating the uninformed.

 

Finally someone who has bought from CarMax. I went there checked out the cars and dealership. I plan on getting rid of the sick Rogue and getting a different vehicle that I want since my youngest assumed my RAV. CarMax has great vehicles. Low mileage and low prices. I kept thinking what is wrong with them. It seemed too good to be true. I wonder if many of the vehicles are repo's. Or where they get them.

PS- I agree about the Nissan gas mileage. I can drive all week and only go thru a half tank.

 

Sorry you feel that way. See the edit in my original post, perhaps a less offensive to you way to say the same thing. That does not alter the fact that the car was apparently abused before you got it, hopefully with all the paperwork.

 

'02 F 150 4x4 w/ 222,000 miles , '06 F250 w/260'000 miles , '99 Exploder w/189'000 miles . I drive the crap out of them . I don't abuse them , to much , but i do all my own repairs . Just did plugs and coil packs on the '06 . $300 for that . The '02 is running fine , has a 4.6 V8 , starting to get a little weak , just did the AC compressor , I bought another truck with the same 4.6 , had a lot of extras done to it , new transfer case , blowed out tranny . Paid 300 bucks for it . I'm going to strip it down keep the parts i can use , swap my engines in the spring , and junk the body. The '06 should easily top 300,000 miles . The Exploder , it has a 5.0 engine with the Gt heads , Tags and insurance runs out in February , so I'll pull the motor and tranny then , sell off the body parts or just scrap it .Then I'll have the GT heads reworked and put on another 302 motor I've got , while I'm still looking for something to drop it in .
But your front end wearing out before the tires do sounds strange to me . But I'm no mechanic , by trade , but sounds to soon to be wearing out . Sell it , buy a 150 4 door .

 

Have a 2009 Sub Forester. Gets about 25 mpg. 4 wheel dr and works well. Problems with car at 160,000 miles, head gasket leaks, $2,500 to fix, center carrier bearing went on drive shaft, $900 at dealer, $350 for after market. Car has no real u joints, but a shaft that connects front to rear, brake job at dealer or Midas Muffler, $400 for front and $400 for back, do yourself for about $120 each. Exhaust system gone, Subaru wants several hundred, but local shop is about half the price using after market parts. Roads are bad, pot holes, gravel with wash board, etc. Bushings on suspension lasted about 100,000 miles, but replaceable so didn't have to buy new suspension. Lots of parts not available after market and dealer price very high. Wife loves it, I would rather have a small Toyota van or pick up like friend has, 4 wh dr. He has had good luck with it, but had minor accident and body parts were very expensive. Have 1999 F 350 and 2010 F 250 ford pickups, 4 wh dr, with v-8 gas engines. Used in business, Engines have been expensive to keep running, overly complex and nearly impossible to work with, and body rust is a major problem. Would not recommend them for either a bug out vechicle, can barely keep ahead of electrical problems without EMP, and see no chance of using them without major parts and garage availability. Still looking for 1960s V-8, standard shift, with carbs and points. We all can dream, either rusted out or restored and out of my price range.

 

I've got a 4 door 3/4t Chevy, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and a Honda Insight. All are in good working condition with healthy rubber.

Evac is prepared and we would roll two vehicles in convoy. Situation would dictate which ones.

5 minutes would be doable but a half hour would be best to gather more supplies and rescue some of life's meaningful gegaws and doodads.

Short of a scorched earth style invasion of military forces, I can't see a long distance bug out being likely.