Hi all! Need some help here on a water system. Here's my setup. (3) 55 gal barrels, 12volt pump, 30 something gallon pressure tank, on demand propane water heater, shower and kitchen sink only. Everything is working but the shurflo pump won't build pressure. It's old so i sported for a new pump. Ended up with a Remco 3200 rv series pump. 3.2 gpm. Works great, or so i thought. Long story short is when the pressure drops down to 20psi (i have an external 20/40 pressure switch) and the pump kicks on, it won't pump. The fine print for the new pump says "pump will only prime if all pressure is relieved from outlet port". If i leave pump off and run the system down to zero pressure and then turn it on, it will pump and fill up the system till the pressure switch turns it off. But it won't pump with the 20psi in the system still. I have a one way valve directly after the pump, pressure tank is charged to 18psi. What am i doing wrong here? There must be a workaround for this. Or should i just return the pump and get a different one? Please help. Thanks.
Sounds like you should have got a surflo or delovan pump. Don't use a check valve or foot valve on the suction side and put the pump at or below the lowest level of the tank.
I have to disagree with OP4 on the check valve on the suction side...if you have one there, you won't have a pressure differential across the pump. In theory, the pump should then pump. I do agree with having the pump at the low spot...pumps like to push a lot more than pull ETA: after reading to manual, I have to ask why you installed a check valve? The pump has one built in. Also in the manual it says: "If the pump does not have an integral pressure sensing demand switch (i.e. pump is operated with an external control), pump will be equipped with a bypass relief valve (bypass is factory preset)." Something isn't quite adding up here..devil is in the details. You shouldn't need to "prime" the pump every time the pressure drops. Even if the pump is in the high spot of the system you should not have air getting in the lines/pump.
Check valve is on the output side. Supply feed is higher then the pump. Pressure tank and pump are at same level. Rest of system is lower.
You said it in the initial post. If it sees a pressure on the discharge, it won't start. Methinks it's a completely wrong application. There are ways around it, but introduce some complications you do not need. Suggest looking into a different pump or control arrangement. Zumzing isn't adding up.
Sir HK, OP4, Sir Tech plus GH know their stuff this is a funny pump tho .. .. designed fer RVs and stuff and things .. .. sumthin aint quite right .. .. the manufacturer says this is an on-demand pump, apparently it is designed to pump only when it senses an open faucet on the discharge side this is an excerpt from the remco pdf [ from their website ]
I have a similar setup with a 12 volt Shur-Flo 4048 (4 GPM) near the bottom level of a 330 gallon IBC tote that I've been using for almost five years with no issues at all. Did a couple of tweaks to adjust the on/off pressure to 40/60 PSI and have a small 2 gal WaterWorks pressure tank on the outlet of the pump. It pushes the pressure through about 220 feet of buried 3/4 PE tubing to my Travel Trailer without a problem..
You have the WRONG type Pump for that type of Domestic Water system... @ColtCarbine Is the Master Plumber around the Monkey Tree... I had a Dankoff Vane Pump on my water System for 35 years and never a hitch, as long as I changed the Suction side Trash Filter every Six months... Cycled between 30 & 50 PSI....
Yeah, i was afraid of that. Guess it's getting returned asap. Wish the manufacturer would have posted that tidbit of information on the outside of the box. It is only found buried in the install instructions. I was thinking that it specifically is for rv's then it would be good to go. Grrrrr......lol. Thanx for the help everyone. I'll post up after i get a different new pump. This time the box is getting opened and instructions read prior to any purchase!
What tweaks did you do to boost pressure to 40/60? I would much rather have that then the 20/40 i have now.
Don't tweak, buy one spec'ced to do what you want. You ain't gettin' out of this one for a dime and a screwdriver adjustment. Going "off grid" ain't necessarily cheap butt bubba country.
On the 4048. there's an Allen screw adjustment on the pressure switch. You need to have a pressure gauge connected to the outlet of the pump in order to be able to tell what you are doing. You also have to take into account the pressure bypass when you reset the min/max pressure. If the bypass is set below the maximum shutoff pressure, the pump will never build enough pressure to trip the pressure switch and it will never shut off. To adjust, I watch the pressure gauge with a valve open somewhere in order to allow the pressure to bleed off slowly. Note at what pressure the pump turns on and where it turns off. Adjust the allen screw in the desired direction until you achieve your on/off pressure. The single adjustment adjusts both turn on and turn off pressure. Better option is the Dankoff pump. Supposedly they can even survive a freeze, but they ain't cheap. Dankoff Flowlight Booster Pump 2920 24 Volts Standard Speed Instructions here for Shur-Flo....https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/flow/manuals/shurflo/marine/911-1024_C.pdf
Sorry homie, i'm not "going" off grid. I got 25+ yrs off grid under my belt. Only the last few involved running water. And the system wasn't set up by myself. Im resurrecting a neglected homestead. And, yes, i'm well aware it's not cheap but part of this true lifestyle is using the resources at hand in order to save money for other things. Not all of us have unlimited funds. Thanx for your input though.
"homie"?" Chill out and re-read CoC item 1. Familiarity is not always accepted, especially when uninvited.