PolyDryer Splitter Mod – Dry Two Spools at Once by 3D KIMBA | Download free STL model | Printables.com i got 2 polydriers one for the python enclosure and one as a stand alone fillament dryer. i screwed this print up but i think you will get the idea. i had some pla cf i was going to use for gun stuff but decided id rather have this. my faux pas was putting too much of the ptfe tube into the dryer box and that caused a bind up of the fil getting tangled in the ptfe tube. i had about 4,5" past the grommet on top. as amazing as these things are,,,, it happily kept on printing and didnt detect that fil was not actually coming out. so the tops came out but the legs didnt finish. i had just enough fil to do this and not enough to reprint the legs. yet. anyway a cool print to use 2 polydry boxs on one heater. there is a 3 box one akso but i think 2 per dryer is best. hard to dry fil is still best with 1 box.
KMB, I know nothing about this technology. How much do your printers cost? How much does your materials costs? I assume that one must purchase 'special' printer(s) and materials to print firearms parts so is it polymer exactly the same as used on a store bought firearm or what? Are the schematics to print this stuff available or are you developing new ones yourself and, if so, what application are you using to do so and its cost? Sorry, for all the questions but I honestly have no experience with these printers so expect more in the future. What is obvious, is you are an expert so if you could explain some basics whenever you get the time it would help us all. I do think 3D printers will become more and more important in the future and believe it would behoove all of us to learn what we can from you.
Play with computers. Big benefit is in gaining knowledge. Often project itself sounds like a waste of time, but it is the key to letting you do more. A few years ago printers were a novelty, now spacex is printing metal parts for rockets. One off and modifible in minutes. Can't even guess where it is going. Bing Videos
so i did my first 3d print in feb. my 4 months of printing hardly makes me a authority. i try to share my mistakes. my personal learning goals are to do easy fillaments and move on to more exotic stuff and eventually learn 3d cad. then i can create anything i can concive. thank you for the question il answer best i can with my limited experiance. you can get a 3dprinter for about 300 to 500 basic model,,, a enclosed printer with 300 degree hot end capable of nylon and harder to print fillaments is 1500 +,,, if you want to do multi color a seperate unit that holds 4 spools of fillament is needed and runs 350 - 500. a 200$ printer can make most pistol frames and some rifle with bed size being the limiting factor. i made the orca a 3dp ar15 with pla plus. if i lived in texas and left the rifle on my dash,,, it would melt. it will also melt after 3-30 rd mag of auto. if i did it with nylon or better it would last longer. for pistol frames pla+ is ok, works fine but to get oem tuff you need nylon or better. i cant quote pa-6, pa-12,abs, nylex or others as i am still on petg. the exotic filled fillaments are harder to print ad clog, and need to be dried before using, iv read. the schematics are .stl, obj files and thousands of free models are on 3D models database | Printables.com and Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects are a couple sites. many more. its like shopping for free. i have a cf-h2 tablet missing a hdd cover. ebay(3dp) 12$ thingyverse free. odessy has the best 3dp gun files iv seen here The Gatalog – The Gatalog after you find a model then you slice it in a slicer. i have a bambu x1c so i use bambu studio to slice the file and tell the printer a laundry list of settings. fillament type, plate type, nozzle temp,ect. its a learning curve. prussa and cura are other slicers. i should add that the x1c with ams is a amazing printer,,, and i do not recomend it. bambu has hinted they will move the slicer to the cloud and a online record of everything you print. oh yeah sorry no guns. you can only print what they approve. my printer is offline and i slice a file, put it on sd card, then put it in the printer.i think the next update will take a step towards the cloud. the crealty k1 max with enclosure and multi color is what i should have gotten,, and i think a simian or two here maybe getting one. id say get a 300$ printer to start and then go up to multi color enclosed 300 degree hot end for 1500 to 2k i say this because i will be adding a cheaper printer just for tpu. tpu is a rubber like fillament you can make o-rings, gaskets shoes! tpu is soft and harder to print so a dedicated printer for it makes sense. i do belive 3dp will be common place and is a step towards replicator tech. no really. pla is biodegradable no oil.3dp food, teeth the limit is your imagination. by this time next year i should be able to go from concept to 3d model to 3d print. of anything i can imagian. i just dont want my .40 cal dildoes on the cloud. thanks for the question.
I've been 3D printing for just under 10 yrs. Now my son bought his own printer as my 3 were not enough LOL. Most 3D printers are based on the users home country voltage, so 120V for US. 2 of my printers are 220mm x220mm x200mm build volume, the 3rd printer is 400mmx400mmx400mm. I've lost track of the functional 3d prints I've done, but by far I've done more toys for the kids than anything else. There are lots of 3d modeling tools to help turn concept to print (tinkercad, freecad, etc.). Oh, I've also been able to model and print parts for my wife's Pfaff sewing machine from the 60's. Really nice when you can get something that's broken working again.
Parts for the old sewing machine....that's really interesting. However, if forces me to ask the question, how in the world do you make the schematic for it? Is that really difficult? I would think so... Given your example, I imagine car parts for old and/or rare antique cars would also be a major justification for a 3D printer. I need to think about this more, but it certainly seems to be easy to justify the expenditure of a 3D printer...
It depends on the part. The main one that I replicated was for the lever you can use with your knee, there was a piece that was used to set the travel distance that both 'ears' were broken off of. I used the remainder of the part to take a photo of it with a ruler so I could scale it properly, then traced the outline. Using an exploded parts view and images I found online I was able to replicate the missing "ears". I printed the part and after a couple of iterations had it working. If I wanted make it out of a soft metal I could use the 3D printed part to make a mold and cast it, but the 3D part has been working fine, just knowing you can't hit it too hard. I think the original broke because my FIL was a bit rough with it and the piece was just cast pot metal, so not very strong. I've made mounts for solar tiki torches to mount them on our fence. The 3D parts have outlasted most of the tiki torches. I have made LOTS of stuff for my woodworking as well. Templates, jigs, storage pieces.
