If anyone in my area needs wheel weights for casting bullets contact me through the boards PM. I work for a tire shop and get the good stuff. But you have to come get it! Will work out details later.
@Oddcaliber ...Ok, Professional Question... I got a flat tire on my Yamaha Rhino660 this afternoon... and had to drive about 30 Yards on it which cause the bead to seperate from the rim, on both sides... Can not find the leak, with just an inspection, and can’t put air in the Tire, because the bead isn’t on the Rim... What is the trick to getting the Tire Bead to reseat onto the Rim so I can get the tire reinflated, and find the leak? Inquiring minds want to know...
Tried that with a wire Com-a-long, but didn’t have any success... Got to find a Strap Rachet, and see if that works... otherwise it will take two weeks to fly it to town and back, on the Mail Plane... I plan on getting a Spare Wheel & Tire out here in January, after the Christmas Bonus shows up... One of the only things i didn’t have a backup for...
Spray a good dose of starting fluid into the tire, and toss a lit match into it! Be careful, wear hearing and eye protection, and stand back! I have to do this constantly on my fire trucks, works most every time!
yep what @Ura-Ki said works plus yep it can be dangerous .. 31 second video .. the video is short n small enough that it should work over limited internet try not to do it the way they did it in the video
Don't use to much starter fluid,,,this is a dangerous way to do it I have used the ratchet strap before , you might could try 2straps, one on each side of the tire
I have an old length of fire hose that I had sealed at both ends,and fit with an air valve and a pair of steel hoops to adjust the length to match the tire, hook it up to my onboard air and it will force a tire to seat a bead, then just air up the tire as normal. It's the same idea as ratchet straps, but has more surface area for really large tires!
Pretty much what everyone else said. Make sure the rim and tire is clean and free of debris. If all else fails, C4!
I have Starting Fluid... I use it to start the Diesel SunAir Mobile Compressor that runs the Lift, Tire Machine, and Air Impact Wrenches... I have the C4, but that isn’t quite the right Tool for the job... I will. try the Ether, in the morning after Church, but only once and see what happens... The Rhino Tire is a lot smaller than the video shows, so a lot less ether should be required... If it works, Great... If not, the off to Town it goes on Wed, and returns on the next Wed... Not going to blow myself up, just fixing a tire... at least more than once... Thanks for all the suggestions... A Mechanic, I certainly am NOT...
You are thinking too small. Melt the weights into ingots, the size and shape of a USPS flat rate box, sell them on ebay. The post office will really love you sending off small flat rate boxes that weight nearly 20lb.
Before doing that experiment, smear some dish soap on the bead and pull the schrader valve. Try just a bit first, that not working, try a bit more. Then STOP. Small tires are very sensitive and relatively stiff. I've used starter fluid on motorcycle tires, and I have become very fearful of the technique.
I've done the starter fluid trick countless times with only trouble one time when it was very cold outside. Not sure why but I couldn't get it to seal until the rubber warmed up a bit. If you try it remember to pull the valve stem out first or the cooling air inside the tire will collapse and break the bead again. When I don't have starting fluid I'll lay the rim on a 5 gallon bucket. Push and beat the tire as tight as I can get it back on the outer edge of the rim. Then carefully turn the wheel over hoping to not break the bead and put it back on the bucket. Gravity may be enough to now seal the bottom edge enough to get air to stay in. Gentle push down might be needed. Still remove the valve in either scenario. Two people is best. One to air it up and the other to gently push the tire down. Last summer I took some pics of how I change tires without the right equipment. I feel it's an important skill to know and share. Like to post some here but I have no clue how.
Have quite a bit of wheel weight and Linotype for bullet casting as well as pure lead. My only advice is to get all you can and bury it well. The lead Nazi's are out in full force and it is becoming an endangered species. 40 years ago I got a few hundred pounds of type from a newspaper that no longer used it , about 10 c a pound. Wheel weights were free, have the mold to cast lead hammers and used to trade a couple hammers for a bucket of wheel weights. Totally different alloy than Linotype and you could mix it up to get your required hardness. Now some of the tire weights contain no lead, outlawed in about 6 states last I knew,. and are useless for bullet casting, zinc alloy or something. The old cast iron sewer pipes were all sealed with oakum and pure lead and used to get from plumbers also for free or a few cents a pound. Used to find tin ingots, lead ingots, solder-lead tin alloy, etc at yard sales and junk yards. Very scarce now. Battery lead is nearly worthless to me, I don't know how to remove the sulfur compounds, lead sulfate and lead sulfide, and don't know what you would end up with for hardness if you cast it. Don't know much about it, bullet casting, bullet lubrication, and gas checks are a total art. I don't try to push the limits, pure lead for muzzle loaders and shotgun slugs, keep the velocities down and use a heaver bullet for pistol and rifle. If I were 20 years old, not about 80, I would jump on any lead or lead alloy I could get and have a couple people who have "claimed" my stash when I die or quit using it. Lead, silver, tin, gold, copper, etc are all increasing in value and becoming more difficult to find and store forever. Same with good iron to forge, I don't know where to get the old wrought iron, the old wagon wheel rims were beautiful. Even I could hammer weld it 50 years ago. The new steel alloys work totally different, not good or bad, but different.