Thoughts On Electric Chainsaws

I just got an email from Oregon Cordless that my battery is in the mail. Yay.

 

Free battery pack has arrived. Not a whole lot of run time but it does give a little extra time when the first one runs out.
Also, I had bought an extra chainsaw which was convenient for when I got the darn thing stuck. Turns out I was ready for a new chain anyway which was clear as soon as I made my first cut with the new one.

 

Wedges and a mallet will free that stuck saw. You should be using a wedge to prevent it getting trapped in the first place. Plastic wedges are used to hold a cut open. Steel wedges to free a stuck blade. (Plastic , so if you touch it, you don't damage your chain, or cause a kick.)

 

Even for a tree that's down (well, one end on the ground, the other not so much)? Where would you put it? The most likely place to get pinched?

 

Cut your way down, then wedge behind the saw in the cut. This prevents the cut from closing on the saw. That is why you use plastic as well. (Close to the saw blade)

 

OK, I'll try it.

 

It worked, thanks. It does seem that it's more likely to get stuck when the battery is running low.

 

When you make a cut down through a log as it starts to tighten up pull the saw out and cut from the bottom up to your top cut. No wedges and same results (just don't stick the saw into the dirt).

Jason

 

You can do that, and I do when needed, but there is a higher risk. If the blade catches, it will kick the saw back at you, instead of being drawn in to the cut.
I would NOT recommend that move to a new bee.

 

The saw as listed ,in this post, will not handle any binding or pressure cuts. The chain is of a design to use the speed of the electric motor. The saw has very little sustained torque and and it has more teeth per inch than any other saw I have used. The saw must be moving at full speed to work well.

It is my experience that the electronic system in the saw has a CROWBAR circuit set to stall early if any binding is felt.

This saw works well when used as designed.

Kellroy has the right answer.

 

I have been cutting that way but even if I misjudge 1 out of 100 the wedge will come in handy.
Here's a question: is it worthwhile to get one of those log jacks to lift the log off the ground?

 

Yes. If you have the room to store it, and the cost is within easy reach. It is a useful tool.

 

add in a Fro and you could even make shingles.

 

Reluctantly I ask, "what is a "Fro "and what is a "peavy."

 

Spelled with an " e" it seems.

Froe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have one. The word comes from" to and fro" meaning away. The sharp edge is down and away from the handle. Drive it in, pull the handle like a one armed bandit, and drive it further, repeat.

 

When cutting up logs it is usually best to make the first cut under your main cut.

This allows the log to fall cleanly and when triming limbs this prevents the tearing of good wood/bark from the tree.

 

1. Cant
   • The cant was a log rolling tool that was among the first invented. It was very simple, and only a little more sophisticated than the logs it was designed to roll. The cant consisted of a piece of timber that had its circumference squared. In other words, instead of a length of timber being round, it now had edges. The logger could use this tool to strike or push the lumber, rolling it.
   Hooked Cant
   • The next log rolling tool is a hooked cant. This manifestation of the cant has either a blunt or toothed end. The blunt-ended cant was referred to as a hog end, while the second version had what looked like two teeth extending down from the end. Both versions were an improvement over the cant as both are equipped with a metal sleeve on the end that has a hinged hook. This hook curves away from the length of the hooked cant then curved toward it again. When the hook is closed, the hooked cant looks like either a lower-case "p" or "q". When the hook opens, it does so from the top so that the logger can actually hook it around a log, making it easier to roll it.
   Peavey
   • The peavey is an improvement over the cant and hooked cant. Invented by a man named Peavey, this tool had both a hook and a spike on the end. This spike offered the logger even more control because it could be both be driven into a log, or forced between logs, making it easier to shift them.

 

DIXIE Log Jack,Duckbill Hook,42 In L - Logging Tools - 2PAG9|06238 - Grainger Industrial Supply

a very useful tool for raising and fixing logs in place for cutting. keeps your saw blade out of the dirt, and reduces the chances of binding as well.

 

Kellory, where do you recommend picking up a froe?