This shouldn't be a problem in NM but it is. Currently I have 2 faucets out side. One is a freeze resistant that is in side the house on a wall that is partially open in the laundry room. So it won't freeze, unless it gets below freezing inside the house. The other one is a regular water hose valve that should really only be used in Florida, south TX or socal. That' the one that going to freeze. Obviously I need a faucet cover, but they barely work. So here is the powered faucet cover. It's a faucet cover, a candle base appliance light, spray foam and a 4w bulb. Bulb light can be upgraded to higher wattage if needed. Edit: finished just in time for the weather men to cancel the windy 0°F to -10°F weekend they were calling for 2 days ago.
That looks good but I think I would up the wattage on the bulb. It will be a balancing act to get the wastage high enough to keep from freezing and not melt the cover. Do you or can you let the water drip. That’s what I do here in middle Georgia Another option would be to drain the pipe..
Around here, those that have outside faucets, that are on Charged lines, just put a valve inside the heated portion of the building, and isolate the exterior Line to the external faucet... This allows the line to be used even if the temps get really cold but drained really fast, after use, and dry, unless used... I have two of these, here... One on the Well House, and one on the cabin. It only takes a minute to close the external and the open the internal... Then use the line, and then close the internal, and open the external and let it drain...
Line the interior with silver foil, and lag any exposed piping. A rheostat may be an easier way of adjusting heat output, than swapping bulbs....just have to protect the rheostat from freezing in place....
The light bulb seems a little vulnerable to breakage, positioned where it is, you may wish to consider some way of protecting it from accidental damage. Another possibility as a heat source might be to use a USB cup warmer. A low voltage option that isn't likely to melt the thermal insulation.
That's actually pretty common where long term cold weather applies. I have one like that here, and another inside that I can hook up a hose and take it out the door. (There is a "right size" gap at the bottom corner of the overhead door that the hose can be pushed thru.)
Unfortunately I didn't install the plumbing on this house. Or else there would be no water lines ran along exterior walls, any exterior faucets would be ran on 12 inch freeze proof fixtures.
I don't have Frost proof hose bibs and protect mine from freezing by letting any sink on an exterior wall to barely run, same thing applies to hose bibs. For hose bibs I attach a garden hose let it run with a trickle and make an ice sculptor. Heat trace wire will also work for those wanting a different option.
When it was 10°F out I checked my faucet cover with my flir i7. It was showing an external temperature of 17°F.
Depends on how low for how long, usually in Alabama we just let the water drip when it gets below 20 F...last week the low temp was in the single digits one night and we let it run.
common problem with the freeze-proof outside bib faucets - they don't read the instructions - or don't get them when they buy the house >>> can't leave a hose attached - cold will transfer inside ... I have both the faucets and an inline valve just inside the foundation - I have a hose pass-thru in the foundation and use heated water directly from the water heater during the winter - nothing but trouble trying to use the outside faucets and a hose .....
