12 ga. As Muzzleloader

Discussion in 'Firearms' started by Brokor, May 17, 2012.

  1. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    Using the H&R 12GA for a Muzzeloader - YouTube

    I thought this was very interesting. Good 'ol Dave has some pretty neat ideas. Personally, I am not comfortable with the idea, but it might take some getting used to. That's a big bore, so there's more room to compensate for a little give-and-take with measurements.

    I have never tried this. Anybody else out there try this before?
    VisuTrac likes this.
  2. Tikka

    Tikka Monkey+++

    In time people will shoot small pebbles. ;)
  3. VisuTrac

    VisuTrac Ваша мать носит военные ботинки Site Supporter+++

    Or rebar solid sabots.

    It's a Blackpowder AP round.

    Not sayin if i know any monkeys that have already tried it or not. But I hear tell it might kick pretty good. Seems break opens can take a longer projectile than a pump/autoloader :D
    STANGF150 and oldawg like this.
  4. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    Yep, the only real issue here is the Quality of the Steel in the Receiver/Barrel, AND getting an Ignition Source for the BP Charge. You can load 12 Ga Hulls with BP and your choice of projectiles, OR you can modify the Firing Pin, with a BP Nipple, and use 209 Primers, as an Ignition Source, without the Hulls. Your choice. either way it is a viable Weapon. .... YMMV.....
    VisuTrac likes this.
  5. VisuTrac

    VisuTrac Ваша мать носит военные ботинки Site Supporter+++

    So it doesn't have to be used as a club after commercial ammo runs out at wally world. AWESOME!
  6. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    Let's just say there is a real good reason to keep the masses and charges under control. Shotties are not going to stand up to much in excess of 12000 or 13000 psi in general, and break opens even less so. (Proof loads vary, but are higher. Not steady diets, for sure.) Now, I know there are some that can stand more, perhaps a LOT more. Do you know yours can?

  7. That is so going about it the long hard way.

    Just deprime the hull using a nail
    put in a fresh primer (he had them)
    pour in a charge of powder (don't cut off the hull)
    put in the shot or punkin ball and seal with a wad or fold the crimp back down.

    Get a lee loader and you are all set to reload bp or regular shothells with the proper knowledge.

    Load and shoot just like any other shotgun shell.

    Just remember to clean it out with hot water because BP is hygroscopic and will rust the bore in a hurry.

    The charges you can fit in the standard hull will be safer than the same with modern powders, and will shoot and work just like regular shotshells.

    The way he suggests it is so rube goldberg it makes me laugh.

    Next he will cut himself on the arm just to show how to cauterize a wound. Hey wait a minute?

    I'm kinda loosing my respect for ol dave.

    OH and for longer shell life you can buy full 2.5 or 3 inch hulls of brass. Just use carboard disks on top and if you like a dab or wax to seal it up.

    here is one source LINK

  8. Tikka

    Tikka Monkey+++

    Brass shotgun shells were invented in the 1860s. Back in the day, a shotgun came with an over sized "paper punch" type device to cut the wads from leather. A drive punch of the appropriate size works and costs a lot less than the antique.

    It is dangerous to use smokeless powder in a black powder firearm. There are load on line for BP in modern firearms.

    In time black powder will melt plastic shotgun shells. Either stick with the original design of brass or paper shells or plan on pitching the plastics after 3-4 firings.

    One thing which has not been addressed is how to seal your shells. It is called sodium silicate and may still be sold in drug stores.

  9. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    Thanks Thaddius and Tikka :)
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