Truer words have never been spoken. I inherited a 16ft aluminum v-hull boat along with a 1959 Johnson QD-20 (10 hp) motor. The boat is in excellent condition, just needs some more comfortable seats. The motor, well, lets just say my dad didn't do the best in maintenance on things like this. I have no idea where he got the motor, but I do remember it growing up. Many memories of going out on the local lakes and taking fishing trips with a 14' aluminum boat. So I'm determined to keep this motor running. Mechanically, it's still very sound. The main problem has been keeping water out of the gear box. 4 years ago I replaced the coils and other electrical components after finding out the motor was running on one cylinder only. I also replace most of the seals in the lower unit after draining out about 50% and 50% oil from the lower unit. Well, i gotta re-do the lower seals again. I think I missed one seal and I again have water and gear oil mixing. Parts are not super expensive, unless replacing certain parts. The o-rings and seals are generally around a buck a peace. Always fun to mess around on projects.
Sorry to hear about your motor problem. I've never had a single problem with my 5hp evenrude from the 60's. Never a hickup except for a prop shear pin. ( some idiot used a piece of coat hanger instead of brass rod. I now have a half dozen in each tackle box.) A 14' v- hull is what I use, as well, with a oversized tilt trailer, made for a tri-hull. (Tracks like it ain't even there.) It was a bit of horse trading\barter and a bit of labor thrown in, but there is roughly $2,000.00 worth there, with maybe $300.00 out of pocket. Can't beat that with a stick! (even the labor turned into another paying job.) As a fishing boat, it would be hard to beat. And now, that I have a truck to pull it, I can't wait to get it back into the water. (Very cool to watch fireworks launched from the bridge, while laid back on the water as well
I've never worked in any boat motors or owned any type of motorized water craft. I'll change that someday but have enough money pits at the moment to be adding another to the mix. Good luck at getting it fingered out. Gotta love those mechanical situations that make you scratch your head.
I have 4 boats and they can be a hole in the water or not. One rule for gear boxes is this. Change gear oil every fall before storing for the winter. Reason? if there is any water in the box and it freezes it blows the seals and lets in more water. Dont let some so called mechanic adjust the carb/carbs. They are set right from the factory. There are always those guys who think they can do it better. Keep Holes into the motor sealed with tape or other means to keep mice or chipmunks from getting in and chewing wiring. I had this happen to my 115 hp. Merc 4 stroke. Almost cost me an 800 dollar wiring harness. I have a pedal boat(pontoon) , Canoe, 14 foot sea Ark Jon with a 9.9 2 stroke and an 18 foot Starcraft Super fisherman with the 115 4 stroke merc. As it is with any seasonal engine(boats, rototillers,snowmobiles, lawn mowers etc) you should use stabil in the last tank of gas or drain the tanks and carbs dry.
When you tear it down this time check both the bushing under the impeller plate and the o ring in the shift shaft bushing. if the drive shaft bushing is worn drill and install a sleeve. If the shaft it self is worn speedi-sleeve will fix it.Same goes for the prop shaft. Those old OMC motors tuned right are so dependable they are well worth the time to bring back into shape.
@oldawg , that picture with the rusted crap in it is the bushing under the impeller, so yes it's getting replaced, if I can get it out without damaging the lower impeller housing piece. It's rusted in there good. A new lower impeller housing piece is $80.00, ouch! When I replaced the o-rings and seals last time I thing the only 2 I did not were the drive shaft seal in the lower impeller housing and the o-ring in the drive shift sleeve. Both are on order and will be replaced, though that drive shaft sleeve looks like it's gonna be a bugger. @Kingfish, there's no telling whose mess with this unit in the past and the fact that I knew it sat around for 5+ years with gas in the carb meant I had tear down the carb, clean it, replace gaskets and re-tune it. I've got it running pretty smooth now, just have to get this lower squared away so I can get it out on the lake and have fun pullin' in some fishes
BOAT, break out another thousand. I have a friend who has been a dedicated bachelor since he divorced 15 years ago. he says he practices catch and release. He has a motto, "If it flys, floats or f#@$, rent it don't buy it." I am hoping to buy a boat in the next year or two. I hope all the money pit talk is exaggerated. It looks to me like it comes down, like anything, to proper maintenance.
kckndrgn I hope, that should your boat find itself unintentionally sinking "full fathoms five" in some uncharted location...that you also have the misfortune of losing your firearm collection along with it.
The money talk is not exaggerated, not in the least. Maintenance is the key alright, bearing in mind that there is an hour or two's worth of it for every hour on the water. Everything boat costs more than anything on shore. (BT,SI, DT, and have the tee shirt.)
I had a mirror class sailing dinghy once...I called it my bailer sailer....I think that it ended up with more fibreglass patching than there was original plywood by the time I and it parted ways.
I had a Super porpoise Three person sail boat ( though I think I would have had to tie the thIrd one to the mast). Made a few parts by hand, including a folding rudder to my own design. ( for storage). Used it for 4 years, had a lot of fun with it. Taught the kids to sail with it, and sold it for an $800. Profit. Not a ragata queen, or a race boat, but did what I asked of it.
Well, things got a little worse last night. Tried, key word TRIED, removing the seal on the water pump housing (the one in the photo that's rusted). Well, after soaking in PB blaster, trying various tricks I managed to bust the housing. This prolly wouldn't be too bad, if it weren't for the fact that this part stopped being manufactured in 1984 . I did find a place that has them in stock, $80.00, but I guess it's worth it since I've already got the new seal on the way. Wonder if I could get it the part 3D printed? (not that I have the printer, but it would be interesting to be able to do it)
Hole in the water to throw money into... True that. I sold my outboard last year, and am going to be relying on the electric trolling motor and oars for propulsion now. I'm going to modify the trolling motor with quick disconnect leads from a small forklift, and add a second battery to my jeep. It will have quick disconnect leads, also. That way, I can always have a freshly charged battery for the boat when we decide to take it out. I don't know how fast a 45lb of thrust trolling motor will propel the Zodiac, but I've had it sitting around for a few years and decided that this is the year, now that the 8hp outboard is gone. I'll need to get a battery box for the boat, too. I would like to modify it by adding a voltmeter to the lid (maybe a DC ammeter too), so I can tell what the state of the battery is. Stuff that will make my money disappear: Double battery tray for Jeep TJ- $. Three sets of quick disconnect leads- $$. Double battery wiring harness and charge controller setup-$$$. Another red Optima battery- $$$$.
Gunbunny, carry a golf umbrella in your inflatable. Great for downwind travel and you use a long oar for a rudder. Not terrific, but rowing those are a booger-bear..... GB
Two pair (three ends only) each is a two wire connector, one male and two female, or two male and one female. Volt meter can connect to second set of battery terminals, or clamp to battery with plug pigtail. Ammeter could be inline with a blade type disconnect.
Kellory, I ment I need three quick disconnect plugs- one for the new battery, a second set for the battery to jeep leads, and the third for the motor leads. I was going to order them from McMaster Carr at $12.19 a pair+ shipping: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7043k224/=rcrn3f These are what I was thinking of and should do the trick nicely.
Tow truck drivers use something similar, for quick hookups of jumper cables through the grill of the truck. You may find them preferable, and made for the purpose.
Cabelas sells a solar trickle charger for boat batteries. I have a neighbor who has a solar charged all electric 20 foot Pontoon boat. He has 2 full size solar panels on the shore station that he plugs his boat into. It is the coolest thing on the lake. He goes by us out there and we cant hear a thing. Silent and he can get about 5 mph out of it. All electric drive.
Well, made a little progress today. While I'm waiting for the impeller piece to come in, I got the gear box put back together. I did have one part that I thought I would have to take to a pro to get done. Here is a parts diagram, I had to get item 17 out to replace item 18 (an o-ring). Well there was nothing to hit from the bottom and no way to pull it. So, I decided since I had a new part 17 (bushing), I thought I might be able to tap the piece and pull it out. Turned out it worked perfectly. The bushing was just brass, so it was easy to do. 100% of the o-rings and seals will be replaced this time. In addition to taking more time to prep the surfaces for the seals, should be pretty water tight when done. hopefully.
