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another "How to sharpen your knife" thread

Discussion in 'Blades' started by CATO, Feb 2, 2013.

  1. CATO

    CATO Monkey+++

    Hone A Knife Sharp Enough To Shave | Field & Stream

    Hone A Knife Sharp Enough To Shave

    Our outdoors skills expert examines the finer points of knife sharpening with a stone
    Article by Keith McCafferty. Uploaded on May 03, 2011

    By now just about everyone has heard of 127 Hours, the critically acclaimed movie inspired by Aron Ralston, the climber who was pinned by a boulder in Utah and spent an hour sawing his arm off with a dull knife blade. It's a dramatic film, but I don't think moviegoers would have had to close their eyes for as long if Ralston had carried a pocket hone in his pack, or even a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.

    Sharpening a knife so that it is keen enough to sever your limb, or, less drastically, skin and butcher a deer, really isn't that difficult. All you really need to render a serviceable edge is a stone, a little spit and a steady hand, and even the spit is debatable.

    True Grit
    Traditional bench stones have largely been supplanted by diamond-encrusted surfaces and synthetics including ceramics and Japanese water stones. I still prefer a good Arkansas bench stone like the one at right ($70; knifeart.com), but as a rule the type of stone is not as important as its grit equivalent. One that sports a medium-coarse grit (325 to 400) on one side and medium-fine 600 grit on the other will cover most sharpening bases. Grandpa invariably prepared his stone with oil, on the assumption that it was needed to “float” away metal particles during honing. Today, many experts recommend using water or no lubrication at all. Shell out the extra sawbuck or two for a bench-size stone about 2 1/2 inches wide by 8 inches long. It will have a more substantial surface that will sharpen a blade more evenly than a smaller stone.

    Bevel and Burr
    Most hunting or utility knives are ground to an edge bevel of about 20 degrees. The easiest way to maintain that angle is with a blade guide that clamps over the knife's spine, such as the DMT Sharpening Guide ($12; sharpeningsupplies.com). Drink decaf to keep a steady hand and you won't need a guide for blades shorter than 4 inches. Place the edge against the stone at the correct angle and use either your thumb or two fingers on the back of the blade to guide it. With light pressure, push the blade away from you, imagining that you are slicing off a thin sliver of the stone.

    Keep sharpening the same side, counting strokes, until a thin ridge of steel, called a burr, is raised on the other side (you can feel it by running your finger past the edge). This means you've ground the bevel completely flush with the stone. Only then should you turn the blade over.

    Using the identical number of strokes, repeat the process on the other side. The blade should now be sharp enough to catch on your thumbnail and shave hairs off your forearm. If you use your knife mostly for slicing cuts—field dressing, butchering, cutting cord and wood—stop right now. The medium-coarse stone leaves microserrations in the steel that give it more edge surface and bite for performing general camp chores. For whittling and skinning, particularly fine detail work like caping a head for a trophy mount, or if you just want to show off by shaving your beard, you'll need to progress to a finer-grit stone.

    Finishing Touch
    To render your blade razor sharp, repeat the procedure with a 600-grit stone surface. This removes some of the microserrations left by the coarser stone. Afterward you can polish the edge even keener with a 1,200-grit stone or a leather strop, which I prefer. Prepare the strop—a wide leather belt will suffice—with a one-time application of a rubbing compound such as aluminum oxide. Place the blade nearly flat against the strop with the edge facing you and stroke the blade down its length, spine first. Flip the blade over and draw it back up. A dozen reps should do it.

    I recommend supplementing your bench stones with a lightweight field sharpener made by gluing 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper onto a thin board. It's just the ticket for touching up an edge when you're halfway done boning an elk—or you need to get through that last inch of gristle and muscle that attaches your hand to your forearm.
  2. fmhuff

    fmhuff Monkey+++

    I tried the cardboard and fine polishing compound method of "stropping" my already sharp knife and all I can say is wow. So easy to do and more than scary sharp. Thanks for opening the thread.
  3. Tracy

    Tracy Insatiably Curious Moderator Founding Member

  4. melbo

    melbo Hunter Gatherer Administrator Founding Member

    Denim works well too. I have a habit of polishing my edge on my upper thigh while sitting.
  5. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    That's too close for comfort for me;) maybe my calf would do....
    larryinalabama likes this.
  6. STANGF150

    STANGF150 Knowledge Seeker

    Dun that, had to make conscious effort to quit it after sum my fav pants had edge marks making them wear holes prematurely LoL
    melbo likes this.
  7. melbo

    melbo Hunter Gatherer Administrator Founding Member

    yep. I wore some of mine out that way too. See, you need to get some fabric glue and affix a razor stop to the jeans
  8. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Or attach one to the outside of a cowboy boot. It would not show until you crossed your leg.
  9. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Best set for me and I've used for years. Norton 3 Stone IM313 System

    This will do it all and is self contained and easy to keep the stones clean with the oil bath. I first used them in the Mil and keep one at all times. Just understand that if you move it, as in a travel deal, then you will need to put the oil in a sealed container till you hit your base, then pour the oil back in the base of the sharpner.
  10. melbo

    melbo Hunter Gatherer Administrator Founding Member

    Great idea, might not even need the strop, just the boot.
    At first glance, I read cowboy hat...
  11. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    How much oil is in the tray?
  12. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    My boots are elephant hide, and can no longer be replaced. I could add the strop though.:cool:
  13. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    I believe a 16 oz. container came with mine and as you use it, over the years, you will need to add some to the bottom tray to the half way full point. As you rotate the stones you end up with what is correct to clean the stones. Use the Norton oil for it is a high quality mineral oil picked for its ability to clean the stones and not gum up.
  14. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    I'm asking how much is used in the tray at one time? an ounce? 5? how much needs to be removed for transport?
  15. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    About 8 ounces in the tray, remove all that's in the tray if transported.
  16. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    So something the size of mustard container, would do nicely for a resealable squeeze bottle for the used oil. 14589989-mustard-bottle.
  17. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

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