Ir's done.. After I used a Dremel cutoff to chop the D-ring in half I was able to get hold of the nut with a pipe wrench. Heated the $%^& out of it with a commercial heat gun, and off it came. There was definitely something used to bond it together. Picking out of the threads with a scalpel blade it feels more like an epoxy rather than normal loc-tite. Whatever... The bolt carrier cleaned up nicely, and is currently simmering in MEK in the ultrasonic, along with the fire control group, and both recievers. (I told him to bring the rest of the thing over this AM) I don't know what this thing really is - not PSA, I looked up their markings. Just the previous owners initials engraved in, and a Flur de Lis cast in under the ejector port. The barrel IS fully chromed and stamped @ 5.56 NATO / 1:7. The feed ramps I thought were bright from wear are chromed as well. Lands are still sharp and clear. Barrel profile is M4, and it used to have an A-2 block/front sight with standard MIL fore-grips The lower now that I have it, is Aero Precision, with no-name groups. In any case it looks like it has the makings of a decent weapon given some care. It was just used like S***, and left to rot. Also: He acquired it from one of his elderly customers (he does construction/remodeling), who said his son left it behind when he was killed in an auto accident eight years ago.
Clean up loctite? Here's the stuff. loctite solvent - Google Search Anyway, glad to hear you are on the way. Good barrel spec, if it isn't bent or some other defect. Chrome is not the best for high accuracy, but more than satisfactory for most applications. The 1:7 will handle almost any weight of projo, but might be a bit fast for 55 grain at the higher speeds. What about the receivers? Are they no-name also?. Best of luck with it. We are going to NEED, to say MUST HAVE pix.
Use never seize grease when you put it back together! It does what it's name says, and provides the proper amount of lube on the threads to get accurate torque! Check the upper receiver at the barrel threads to see that it's dead square and adjust if needed, while rare, I have run into a few that were not dead square which puts stress risers into the barrel and receiver and affects accuracy. Bad enough and it will actually loosen over time!
blue thread locker is about all most applications need I use it on grip screw bushings instead of staking them. Front sights on a 1911 I have used homogenized low temp silver solder, a pencil line will keep the solder from flowing. A super glue trick is to use gel super glue, degrease the area and apply super glue gel sprinkle baking soda on it to either build it up or keep it in place. Acraglass is another great product but watch mechanically locking parts and use mold release agent properly when stock bedding.
Interesting. I was told to use Rock-set on my barrel threads as it will come free with hot water supposedly . Midway was my source and supplier .
A 5 gal bucket of arctic grade anti seize followed me home one year. I use it on many things including AR barrel threads. A little dab will do ya and makes a big difference in accurate torque settings. Folks need to remember you are threading a steel barrel nut onto aluminum threads.That can cause big problems if nothing is used, mainly thread galling or cold weld as it's also known. Most folks won't ever remove or change barrels but for those that will the problem is easy enough to prevent. Living in a high humidity area is another reason to use anti seize on certain parts as it will help with corrosion or oxidation corrosion between threaded parts.
Some pics... This thing is a Mutt.... But we're heading to the range after dinner to see what it does. More info on the origination: the elderly gent he got it from, (no FFL papers - "here, take it" ) found it leaning in a corner of his garage behind a bunch of shovels, rakes, etc. They're cleaning out in expectation of selling the place. He assumed it belonged to his long dead son, but no proof. The lower receiver is "Del-Ton", the collapsible butt-stock is Stag Arms, the barrel is imprinted with only the specs,(5.56 NATO 1:7), the upper receiver has no info, and the bolt carrier has "M1" stamped on the rear tail. *** Poor D-ring I had to chop off , and the barrel nut post pipe-wrench. grubby bolt carrier & associated bits following n initial hose down with brake cleaner: Things cleaned up fairly well with some elbow grease, an ultrasonic, and nasty solvents. You couldn't see through the bore at all previously - Mud Daubers had a nest in the receiver end. I don't recognize the flash suppressor. Anyone? We decided to configure it as stock, with MIL fore-grip, and A2 front I had laying around. The barrel was already drilled for the stake pins under a low profile block and flip up front sight.
Interesting question - I wonder if a query could be made without advertising it's current owner? I'll ask a Sheriff at the club next time I see him. It's 15.5" to the end of the flash suppressor threads, so almost legal. Aside from the lack of an FFL transfer... Given the way our politics is going, the BroNlaw would probably be averse to advertising it's existence, and were he to donate it to me, I'd probably feel the same. BTW - It shoots fine out to 100 yd with the irons. I think the front is rotated to the left a tiny bit, but the rear had enough range to bring it in.
I'd just get a longer muzzle device and make sure it's pinned and welded. 1/2" isn't worth it - from the photos I thought it was a pistol/SBR length action, but looks like I was wrong.
I find red Loctite releases at 350*F , but to get there without flame I use a Mini Ductor system With this I can heat just that area , as with Dry-ice also creates a temp difference for expansion to happen . I once needed to remove a ID bearing race off a trunion on a Bell 206L , both were new parts but were assembled wrong .Cost was 3500.00 (bearings matched pairs ) I spent a week with dry ice & if I had a ductor back then , done in a day . That heats so quick , is 180 * opposite than the wife Sloth
You just had to show me that device! I dabble in elderly Brit and Swedish cars on occasion: there's times I'd kill for something like that... But about a grand US $. I'd have to give up something to keep the wife civil
Please be sure, measure carefully. "Almost" only counts with horseshoes, hand grenades and atom bombs. The batfies cut no slack.
