OK....the world has ended as far as reliable grid power is concerned.....it's either intermittent for a few hours/day like many parts of the world, or it's now unaffordable, or it's just plain gone due to an EMP or CME event. You've decided that the real value of electric power is just a small amount consistently reliable refrigeration because the iceman doesn't deliver ice anymore, and because while propane/kero fridges are fine, you still need a supply of fuel, and maybe a few electric lights for use to see what goes bump in the night would be a handy thing too. So, HOW to design a small solar power system that gives you BASIC refrigeration and a few lights ? You know....the things that really made the 20th century a whole lot better than those previous centuries..... Here's my suggestion: First, abandon the idea of a freezer, if you want "bare bones"....and we're basically talking money here.....a consideration in most folks minds. You could upsize what I'm gonna lay out if you want to spend the money, but start with the premise that a freezer is simply too expensive, energy wise, and really, ask yourself....if the world gets to the point this level of equipment would suggest, are you REALLY gonna find Ben and Jerrys or TV dinners to stick IN the freezer ? OK....on to basic refrigeration. First off, plan on moving that current late 20th century/early 21st century model fridge outside, take the shelves out, flip it on it's back, fill it with dirt and start a worm composting ranch in it. Your garden will thank you. The energy efficiency of the best on on the market still sucks if you have to produce the energy. The best one out there ( and odds are, you don't own one ) is still about 1 kw/hr per day.....I have a new GE model that uses 550kw/hrs per year, or about 1.5kw/hrs/day, and it is a HECK of an improvement over the previous 95 Whirlpool that used 3/day......and still to much power use for "bare bones".....something to keep milk, butter and last night's road kill safe to eat for a couple days. For bare bones, you want to get in the Watt/hr range....not KILOWATT/hr range. Here's how you do it: Get a fairly new 7-9 cubic foot chest freezer....one that you can use for your home now, using grid power, and use as a freezer. Buy a late model, energy star rated one. Then buy an external thermostat like this: They are 60-70 bucks from Kegman.com, or KegCowboy.com, you might find them a little cheaper shopping around, but that's the one you need. The thermostat plugs into a 120v source ( described in "how to build" below ), then the freezer plugs into the double plug, which is controlled by the external thermostat. You put the bulb part inside the freezer to sense temperature, and set the dial to what you wan the freezer to go to, and STOP running when that temp is hit. This simply over rides the thermostat control that comes with the freezer, shutting off the electric power when the selected temp is reached. For refrigeration, you want something in the mid to upper 30's on the dial. Say 38 Now you have a freezer converted to a refrigerator that will only use in the 150 to 200 watt/hr/day range....5 to 7 times better than the very best UPright conventional fridge out there.....meaning you can get by with 5-7 LESS times the power to run it. DON'T roll the thing back in the house...keep it in a garage, or carport, or basement, or someplace cooler than the 70 degree kitchen IF you have such a place ( though don't set it out in REALLY freezing cold weather either....refrigeration compressors can lock up in REALLY cold temps )....try to pick a place that is as cool as possible to begin with so the unit isn't having to fight ambient temps....every watt counts here.