I'm starting to send guns off to get the evil feature which some of them lack added. A threaded muzzel. For some guns it's easy, like a 1911, 92fs or 10/22. Just buy a barrel. For others it's not so easy. First gun to go for a spin on the lathe is going to be 2 old marlin 22wmr bolt guns, they're getting sent off today. Turns out me and my wife both bought almost the same gun over 20 years ago. Long time before we knew each other. Getting them threaded will cost about how much we paid for these guns back in the day. I only have 3 portable screw on "22 silencers" and probably going to get a 4th soon so might as well. Next guns send away will be a savage A17 and a plain old open sight 10-22 barrel, that I want to retain the open sites after it gets threaded. Since I have several silencers I want to get everything that can shoot through a 22 can to be done first. After that I'm sending off the 30 carbine and 30-30 and the 380carbine but I own precisely zero 30cal and 9mm silencers as of now. So I have a year to get them done when I do buy those silencers. I just figure it will be hard to get a muzzel threaded post shtf or get a decent silencer.
I have never used a suppressor before, never shot one - hell - never even been around anyone that shot one. I have thought of getting one numerous times but didn't feel like going through the hassle then last year I heard they might be taken off the ATF lost making them easier to obtain so decided to wait - of course, it didn't happen. Does a suppressor deaden the sound enough on a 9mm that I would not have to use ear protection? I'm trying to get a idea how well they work, a benchmark you might say... I imagine they work well on a .22 LR but wondering on the larger calibers? Given the cost and the hassle, I'm wondering if they truly give me something in return that's worth it? Comments?
Get started, There is a ton of vids on u-tube,Take notes and decide what fits your needs,All cans are not created equal.
@Bandit99 suppressors are mixed bag, some are quite effective, some not more then a glamor thing, so it pays to do your homework! Most pistols will see a big reduction in sound, as most are not to much faster then super Sonic, so it's easier to absorb the blast then the faster running stuff, your 9mm will need to have a pretty good can to do a good job, where as .45 can be a more basic design, only having to deal with the larger blast! With Rifles, unless your loading ammo specifically to run suppressed, ( i.e. subsonic) all your doing is dampening the Large Blast and over pressure (which is what makes the big BOOM you hear), you will still get the crack of the bullet, but that's ok, it's the boom you want to try to control! Rifle cans are a whole nother ball game, they must be larger and have a lot of internal baffles and other things to try and break down that blast and over pressure! In all my years running suppressed, I have found the original Maxim design is still king, and when combined with a Reflex aft section and first baffle, it's as good as it's ever going to get! The ATF specifically lists Wipes as a no no, so you know they work quite well, and it's why you don't see them offered on any commercial cans, so IF you decide to equipe wipes , know that the ATF has major issues with them! Not that I'm recommending doing anything illegal, but.................
Well if you go multi, like shoot a 9mm through a 45 can it won't be as quiet. I figured I would try it and buy 2, a std 1/2x28 screw on 22 and an integral for 10/22. I have 5 tota 22s now. One is a 10/22 integral, another has weird metric threads for my 5.7x28 pistol so those 2 can't be swapped around. I wish I would have started with silencers many years ago. But they have gotten a lot cheaper over the last 5 to 10 years. Back 20 years ago when the market was dominated by a few big manufacturers they could charge $400 to $600 for a simple no thrills can. But now there are a crap ton of mom and pop manufacturers so you can get a prettt good cheap one. Rifle cans do make a big difference even with full power super sonic ammo.
Okay....New Years resolution, get a .22 suppressor and a 9mm one... My Ruger .22 SLR pistol is already threaded but none of my 9mm Glocks are...I suppose I could buy another Glock one that is threaded but...that would go up like a lead balloon since I have 2 each G19s and a G43 all ready... Also, I assume it is cheaper to have them (the pistols) threaded? Also, isn't it awfully difficult to actually hit anything with a can on a handgun?
Glocks should just be able to swap in a threaded barrel. You have to get the right profile of can. For example on the Beretta 92fs I will likely get a silencerCo osprey so I can see the sights. It's an off set design. But my gemtech sfn for the FN 5.7x28 pistol is cylindrical but narrow enough to still use sights. My ruger mark 4 with gemtech gm22 I can hit coyotes at night from 40 yards away with car headlights. The gemtech weighs less than 3 ounces so I can't even notice it.
Not really, it's all in how you set up the sites, and the weight forward balance you have to learn to deal with! Practice, practice, practice, which you should be dong anyway! For getting your Glocks threaded, just buy a barrel already threaded, way easier and you gain the better barrels that way as a side bonus!
You guys are missing one of the VERY NICE advantages of having a Second, and or multiple Barrels, for any one handgun... If you kill someone with your firearm, but have a second or multiple barrels for it, just chuck the first barrel in the same lake all your other firearms were lost in that disastrous boating accident, and install one of your spares, no matter what forensically you have a different weapon, with the same serial number... This is even better if you paid cash for the replacements, leaving no paper trail for the LEs to follow... and even better if the barrel is bought from a third or fourth party, on a barter exchange... Yea, I have a devious mind....
I call extra barrels "parts" ... And btw: one can purchase 0.50 ID annular cutters with various arbor sizes that just happen to match common caliber sizes when measured at the high point of the rifling lands. add in a 0.5x28 progressive die, and ....
Pretty easy to do. They will shorten the barrel a touch and refit and install the factory band sight and then I assume reblue.
hey the back of the slide and the firing pin can leave fingerprints to just saying .....................................
Only if you are stupid enough to NOT police up your Brass... They leave No forensic evidence on the projectile...
For simple blow back or gas operated guns a simple silencer with no moving parts is fine. For my hi point 380 carbine I will likely get a rebel 9mm. But do I want three 9mm cans total, an osprey with moving parts for a delayed blow back gun like a 92fs and then 1 for each carbine, as I will probably get a Beretta storm92 carbine soon. Or should I make the carbines share? The hearing protection act died in the house back around 2015.
Looks like grumpys guns in Arlington TX can do a hi-point carbine. A rebel 9mm can is about 400 bux. Hell just the tax stamp is about how much I paid for it. Take a hipoint, put a more useable stock on it, thread it, put a can on it that's like a $900 weapons system. It will be the coolest way to burn 380 ammo ever. I'm thinking the hipoint and future Beretta carbine can share a can...
