I've liked Fiskers for their design and sharpness, but I feel anything with a fiberglass or composite handle would be difficult to impossible to repair in the field.
Both of my Vaughan's are no longer listed in their catalog, but I see them still available online. My axe is a Vaughan Sub zero Michigan pattern single bit that resides in my trunk all the time. My hatchet is a Vaughan mini, and it's so tiny that after I stripped the blue paint off I considered painting it orange so I don't lose it. It's really tiny, but is just right for making fuzz sticks or cutting up kindling. I cut a big gaping gash in my thumb with a kukri. Wasn't even chopping anything. Just happened to bump into the blade. Way too much sharp edge for me to fiddle with. Maybe it's a self preservation thing, or maybe it just makes me more competent using them, but I tend to prefer short knives with big grips like the puukko or old Russell Canadian belt knife, and small hatchets. Axes are out there on the end of a longer handle, so with them I just have to mind my feet. If you chop yourself up with a big blade it could be a little tougher than zipping down to the emergency room or community clinic for a tetanus shot and a few stitches. Full disclosure, I've done it plenty of times and bear the scars. That's what you call learning the hard way.
I keep a double-bit Michigan ax and a single-bit smaller ax in the trunk. As I used to heat exclusively with wood they got a LOT of use over the years, lately not so much. For camping, I generally use a ww2 12" Dehradun khukuri- Brit marked and the same one Windlass still cranks out and sells. Fancy it is not, made in India not Nepal so some refuse to call it a Khukuri. Has served me very well these last 35-40 years altho Ive had to replace the leather-covered wood scabbard when it was lying on a stump and subsequently crushed by a falling tree. Not big on the wooden scabbards anyway and replace them with thick leather ones I make myself. It is the measure by which I judge all other Khuks and even large bowies somewhat.
I use Gransfors Bruks axes. Though honestly I spend more time slicing paper with them than actually getting out in the field and using them. They are good axes though; they come razor sharp from the factory and do a pretty good job of holding their edge under use.
Thank you for mentioning that using an axe is hazardous if the user is unfamiliar with safe techniques, or attempts to use too much force rather than focused accurate strikes to let the head do the work. The more accurate one becomes through experience, the more force he can use, and the worst that can happen is a damaged or partly split wooden handle at the base of the head.
i have two different sized Fiskars. they seem to get the job done when needed. been wanting a higher end hatchet but the fiskars still does what they are supposed to do.
Gransfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet - it's just the right size and weight for around camp work. Cheap 27" 2-1/2lb double bit made of chinesium that I picked up at our local Big R some 25 years ago. Steel is brittle but it takes an edge and retains it as long as I'm not hitting rocks or anything hard. Looking to replace the cheapy with some forest size axe. Have my eye on the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe. Not a fan of full size felling axes. Looking at some of their carpentry tools also. Cost and availability are both issues on them.
what's with the mental capacity suddenly in regard to hatchets & axes >>> sudden rush on posting on their recent "great buy" .... whole posting by some guy on how he prepped up a Harbor Freight fire axe - another guy posting how you need to spend totally ridiculous $$$$ on a fire axe because of possible flooded home trapping - another "youngster" that's beaming on spending like $20 on a flea market hatchet that wouldn't take an edge if your life depended on it (and being a prepper - that's VERY possible) .... just pitiful prepper thinking - lack of common sense - total lack of product education >>> have they EVER read into the prepper forums? - done even a 15 minute read on what makes a good axe a GOOD AXE? - read any of the prepper basics on getting started and multi-use buys?
Like a firearm, the skill to use an axe (or shovel) well is far more important than the specifics of the tool.
I have some what of a different take on the matter. Green horns should start cheap. Usually they don't have the money for the high dollar tools. Secondly they need to learn how to sharpen. this is a time consuming skill. It takes patience to sharpen steel. Thirdly rehanging an ax is all part of the process. I grew up in a family that could not afford to be running to the doctor for every little thing. I often worked alone so there was no back up, except to think far enough ahead many accidents were avoided. As for my go to knife in the woods it's my Western Bowie, however I would not be adverse to carrying my kukri either. I have also gone to wearing my Bowie horizontally at the small of my back.
Had an estwing and it was stolen. Now I just use an Esee Junglas I keep under my seat. Bought a Boreal21" with the leather sheath so don't really need an axe. The double-bit axe looks like I need it just to learn how to throw it for fun.
I carved this try stick today with my Hatchet, I copied the one I made with a SAK. I have a Love/Hate with Axes and Hatchets, today I felt the love.