cap & ball revolver

Discussion in 'Firearms' started by Sharpie44, Aug 1, 2009.


  1. Sharpie44

    Sharpie44 Monkey++

    Well I just made $600 from some side jobs and I wanted to buy something fun before college starts up.

    I ordered a cap and ball revolver from cabela's

    PIC

    I own a flintlock rifle so I'm not new to black powder but I don't know much about these revolvers.

    First off I know I need to put a sealant around the bullet but I can't figure out what I'm suppose to use. Cabela's seems to have a product to do it but they also don't seem to have any in stock.

    Any info on these things would be helpful. Thanks.
     
  2. RouteClearance

    RouteClearance Monkey+++ Site Supporter

    OHHHH!!!! My favorite, what you need to use as a C&B revolver lube is any non petroleum based greases. The original used during that time period was a Lard/Beeswax based lube. Today, I use a 50/50 mix of Crisco/Beeeswax lube for my C&B shootin irons.

    Now the two main reasons why you seal the cylinders of C&B revolvers after the cylinders are loaded. First is to prevent what is known as chain firing, which has happened to me once back around '87. This is where the hot gasses actually seep past the seated bullets of the other chambers and ignite the powder charge of your ajoining cylinders and I WAS DAMNED LUCKY I WAS NOT HURT. Couldnt' say the same for the revolver itself.

    The second reason is to keep out all moisture, which will render blackpowder useless.

    I would recommend searching the net to find more info about shooting the C&B revolver, they can be the most fun you have with any type of handgun shooting.
     
  3. Sharpie44

    Sharpie44 Monkey++


    Thanks for the info. I can't wait to start shooting but I do have a few questions if you don't mind.

    1.) What powder should I be using. I'm using real black powder in my flintlock. Will this work in the revolver?

    2.) The revolver is a .44 cal so is this .451 Cal

    3.)It's not telling my what primer I need. I think it's a #10 but I cant tell.

    I wanted to get the primers and balls with the gun to save on shipping.

    Thanks
    Eric
     
  4. ghrit

    ghrit Ambulatory anachronism Administrator Founding Member

    1) - fffg or equal. You should be using ffg in your rifle
    2) - Say what? You will have trouble jamming a 451 ball into a 44 cylinder, with or without patches.
    3) - 10 is possible, but most I've seen use 11. If you buy the wrong ones, you can get nipples to fit.

    The mountain men used bear grease to seal the cylinders. Crisco works well with or without beeswax (which is pretty pricey and harder than it needs to be) but no matter what you use, you are going to make a mess.

    And RC has it right, research what you don't know and the O&M manual doesn't address.
     
  5. Sharpie44

    Sharpie44 Monkey++

    I do use 2f in my rifle so I'll have to drop another $30 on a can. You have to use over sized rounds from what i understand. I've been looking around and the one I'm buying seems to take anywhere from .451 to .457 round ball.

    Thanks for the info.
     
  6. tacmotusn

    tacmotusn Mosquito Sailor

    I wish you had posted before ordering your cap and ball revolver. A number of things jump to mind. The Ruger old army is probably the most reliable, rugged, accurate cap and ball revolver you could lay your hands on. The remington replicas are stronger than the colts. and, steel frames are better than brass frames. A colt dragoon steel frame in 44 would probably be the only colt cap and ball I would recommend. JMHO of course.
     
  7. eng

    eng Monkey++

    Sharpie,

    I used .452 balls in my .44 Remington. Whatever cuts a ring off when loading. Brass frames have a tendency to stretch so don't use full charges. A less than full charge will probably prove more accurate anyway.
     
  8. Sharpie44

    Sharpie44 Monkey++


    Well I haven't actually placed the order yet. I have it set up so al I have to do is hit submit and it will on Monday.

    I am considering not getting the starter set and using the extra money to get the new army .44.

    Then I can just get everything else as I find it. It looks like I can get most of the stuff from e-bay. Except maybe the nipple wrench.
     
  9. QuietOne

    QuietOne Monkey++

    Wrench? With nipples I gently run my...

    Oh, REVOLVER nipples. Sorry.
     
  10. dragonfly

    dragonfly Monkey+++

    LOL!!!
    Funny,....weird, but it's still FUNNY![ROFL]
     
  11. Seawolf1090

    Seawolf1090 Adventure Riding Monkey Founding Member

    I have three brass-framed Pietta .44s - two of the Colt 1851 Navy style and one Colt 1860 Army. I load with Pyrodex P or Triple Seven, with #11 caps. I find the .451 balls work best for me. The Rugers need the bigger .457 balls. I generally use Wonder Wads between powder and ball - no grease needed then. If I do use grease over the balls, I favor Mink Oil - it comes in a flat 'shoe polish' tin, and does a great job. Doesn't melt in summer heat like crisco or other natural greases. Smells nice, and has lanolin to keep your hands soft...... :D

    Using Pyrodex, I like about 27 grains in the chambers. Triple Seven is a bit hotter, so 25 grains works well. Triple Seven is a breeze to clean up, and is pretty nearly non-corrosive, compared to the others. It is more expensive, but is worth the extra cost. It ignites more easily than Pyrodex too, almost like real BP.
     
  12. Sharpie44

    Sharpie44 Monkey++

    Got the revolver in and shot two cylinders wroth of ammo. Not very accurate with it so far but i can at least keep it on the paper at 15 yards. It's a lot of fun to shoot and with only 20 grains of powder it has hardly an kick at all.

    It just takes me 8 minutes to load it.
     
  13. Seawolf1090

    Seawolf1090 Adventure Riding Monkey Founding Member

    Cap&Ball revolvers tend to shoot high with that little front bead sight. I replaced them with blades cut from nickel coins - shoots dead on at 25 yards now.
     
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