Casting bullets for muzzleloader

This is the pot at this point not bad, not bad. One rough patch still to go, so a quick scrub with the brass brush, and since the ladles need more time, I put the pot back in as well. The skillet was added at this time, and it will continue to soak as this gets under way.
@Gator 45/70 has offered designs on a zerk pot heater, which I will start fabricating once I have a clear design to work to. (No real hurry, being as it was -3°, outdoors this morning, and I'm not in a big hurry to become one (frozen lump) with the great outdoors.

 

Never did cast muzzle loader projectiles. Did a bunch of casting for smokeless powder cartridges (basics are the same, instead of pure lead an alloy of lead, tin and antimony are used). For a couple of years back in the late 70s I ran a Magma casting machine for a commercial reloading operation. It had a 100 lb lead pot and used eight double cavity moulds arranged like spokes on a wheel and driven with a gearmotor. It could cast 2500 projectiles/hour once the moulds reached temperature. A far more modern version below.

I also did some by hand for my own use, including 50 grain gas checked .22 cal flat points for a little .222 Rem bolt action that I used to play with. With gas checks and moderate velocities = no lead in the bore. Also cast the usual .38 / .357 stuff for wheelguns. After sizing / lubing accuracy was really quite acceptable. Don't do it any more but wouldn't trade the experience for anything.

 

Used one of my burners last night, Here's a few pict's

 

Opps, Here's one burner, 1/4 pipe with an end cap drilled at 1/16 on the side of the cap directing the flame up.

 

THat's cool Gator. Looks like a home built. Feel sorry for the poor crabs - NOT!

 

Heres another one made by a Lay-Barge crew for me, Its heavy as crap, A 1/4 grease zert is used here. Works fine, Just punch out the orifice to the next larger size drill bit.

 

I like this design, and should be able to fabricate it pretty easily. Thanks.

 

1st one, At idle
2nd, Now your cooking!
3rd, If you want a broader flame.
Do you have Nat. Gas by chance?

 

I do have natural gas, but would need to install an outside hookup.

 

I use nat gas for my antique set-up, This burner I picked up at the local flea-market, Brought it home and promptly took it apart and drilled out the orifice, Its my primary lead cooker since nat. gas is really cheap, I wanted something I could throw in a fire and cast hence not dependent on electricity, I've ran at least a 1k lbs of lead past this burner, ( past means I've processed that much lol )

 

Thanks for all the info and ideas! I have my late father's lead casting stuff. He melted lead and cast his own boat anchors. He also had a lot of tubular lead net weights from his lead seine and cast nets. I have his cast iron pot and ladle, though they are rusted and need that dip treatment.
Already have the ingot and ball/bullet molds for the calibers I will load for. Need some tin or linotype to harden the lead for CF bullets. I have a .50 cal ML rifle and six cap&ball revolvers to cast balls for. I will be casting - .36 (.380), .44 (.454) and .38Special and .45ACP bullets. No mold yet for the .50 cal. I may add a good .32 bullet mold for my Nagant revolver, but I do have pretty much a lifetime supply of cast bullets for it already.
Note to self.... NEED FLUX!!

 

I'm pretty sure you have some, Read here fluxing technique

 

@Gator 45/70 , I'm up to page 5 so far...

 

I've done the candle thing, Works pretty fair, I've since switched to using pet bedding (Wood Shavings)

 

Oh, And I like your pot, Make a lid for it, Makes the lead melt faster and keep's a suicidal bug out of your mix.
Even a suicidal mosquito will make hot lead pop.

 

Drops of perspiration into the pot mayn't help either...

 

Good info on the 1st page, after that it pretty much became a flame war although I only read to page three..
I use shavings and a bit of wax. Good advice on the lid, agree 100%, molten anything is usually not good for the complexion

@kellory I've been buying some of my lead/bullet alloy on ebay. Some may say the price is high, but look around and there are still deals. I esp have been stocking up on good bullet alloy as a prep. The way I see it, it will cut out a step for me, thus taking less time at a time when I most likely will need to do other things. I know you're only interested in pure lead for ML's now, but that may change as you get into the skill/hobby
My

Exactly. I often use my oxy/ace torch with just the acetylene burning to do the same as well as on steel shafts,ect before welding. The spatter won't stick near as much and the stuff that does comes off very easily. I'm still one of those that "black" the sights before/during a match as well.

 

what I'm reading suggest that the carbon from the wood does clean the debris out of the lead, and that the wax makes it more homogeneous, but that no antimony is removed. (that's metallurgy itself is not changed). am I reading this correctly?