Casting bullets for muzzleloader

Thermostat is not there. I think a simple potentiometer should do the job, checked by a mechanical thermometer.

 

Seems to be a close match.

Product Details
120V 210W table top 500ml mantle heater

• Volts: 120V
• Watts: 210W
• Type: Table Top
• Important: Temperature Controller is Required
• Availability: Usually ships in 2-3 Days
• Click Here for Brochure
• Click Here for Installation Instructions

Product Highlights

• Self-supporting, can be placed directly on counter top
• Easy viewing of flask contents
• Stackable for easy storage
• Includes 6 foot cord with either a NEMA 1-15 (for 120VAC) or NEMA 6-15 (for 240VAC) plug

Specifications

• Fiberglass cloth outer shell
• Uniform, low-watt density knitted and braided heating element.
• Temperatures up to 900oF (482oC).
• Multi-stranded resistance wire for increased durability and flexibility
• Plug-and-play
• Temperature controller required

 

Looks like it uses a timer for heat on time. That would be easily doable with a light timer. ( 15 minute variables.)

 

I would imagine a real heat controller with the thermocouple providing the feed back.

 

Download shows no heat sensor, and one of the controllers on your link shows it to be an on power timer.

 

The link is only part of the site. It was sampled as a way to see the advertised max temp for the given volts and watts.

Note the last line; Temperature controller required. It gives you the options on the attached sheet.

http://www.gordosales.com/store/pc/catalog/hm-instructions.pdf

TS0 Portable Bulb and Capillary Temperature
Controller Features:
•
120 or 240VAC
•
15 amps
•
4-foot copper bulb and capillary
•
Compact portable design
• Plug-in operation
TP0 Portable Time Percentage Dial Temperature
Controller Features:
•
120 or 240VAC
•
15 amps
•
Compact portable design
•
Plug-in operation
The TP0 series controller varies the proportion (length)
of time a heater is in the “on” or “off” heating mode.
The heating application will determine the actual
percentage set point required. The controller does not
use a temperature sensor and therefore satisfactory
operation requires occasional supervision under
changing load conditions.
BriskONE Digital PID Thermocouple Temperature
Controller Features:
•
Accuracy: ±1 least significant digit
•
Operating voltage 120 or 240 VAC, +10% -15%,
50-400Hz
•
Rated 15a @ 120VAC, 10a @ 240VAC
•
Type J thermocouple input
•
Dual display shows set-point and actual
temperature
•
Programmable to either °C or °F
•
Automatic tuning of PID parameters
•
Auto / manual control ability
•
Compact portable design
• Simple four key user control
For more information and choices, go to the full temperature controller section at pages 80 through 100.
Temperatures up to
900°F (482°C)
IMPORTANT: Temperature controller is required for this product. See pages 80 through 100 for options.
Ordering Information:
Self-supporting: can be placed directly
on counter top
Easy viewing of flask contents
Stackable for easy storage
Includes 6-foot (1.8m) power cord with
either a NEMA 1-15 (for 120VAC) or
NEMA 6-15 (for 240VAC) plug
Product Highlights
SDC Benchtop Temperature Controller Features:
•
Temperature Control Range: 32-999°F (0- 600°C)
•
J-type or K-type Thermocouple Sensor
- 5-foot (1.5 m) factory installed
•
120 VAC or 240 VAC power input
•
10-Amp Fused Output
•
Small Unit Size
HM Table Top Heating Mantles
Temperature Controllers for Heating Mantle

 

"Plug-in operation
The TP0 series controller varies the proportion (length)
of time a heater is in the “on” or “off” heating mode" ....yep, just like a light timer. As for temp, just like over a burner, it will require supervision, and a thermometer. Lead does not heat or cool very quickly.

 

You need to be aware of the reason this heater was designed. It is a shaped heater and it will require a good controller to have a service life for melting lead. This system is a lot like an immersion water heater that is not air rated. By that I mean that it may have a propensity to burn out when it goes over 900 degrees.

 

Understood, but since lead melts at about 620° why would I let the temp climb that high? Monitored, and power cut when it gets to the right temp, it should do alright.
On the other hand, the burner build continues.

 

I guess because you made no mention of monitoring it during your first run.

 

No? Don't have the thermometer yet, and the test was just to see if it would get hot enough. At one hour, I have a melted puddle, but not a full melt yet, so more time or more insulation would be needed. No danger of that 900° mark yet, by a long shot.

 

Keep on with the burner, it will have a better volume of production.

 

Alright, question about the wax flux. People keep saying "beeswax", but no one local seems to sell it, yet I have thousands of wax toilet rings available. Does it need to be a particular type of wax, or will any wax do?

 

Throw about 2/3'' in, You'll see instant flame and black smoke.. Wait
Once all of it burns down mix it in or stir like Hades, The impurities will leach to the wax and float to the top, Same as wood shavings
Skim off the black and start casting!

 

Mechanical thermometer ordered, faceshield acquired.

 

Alright, gauntlets, faceshield. Thermometer, pot and ladle are ready, beeswax is on order, though I am now told that any wax will do. (3lbs should be enough for a long time.) Heating element does work but is ungodly slow, so I opted for oxy/acet and used a small hand gardening tool as a rake to skim out solids. Thirthy pounds of wheel weights, trash, zinc, steel, and clips yielded 18lbs of lead, cast in round pot shaped discs.
This was done in the open air, with a breeze at right angles to the work, so no fumes. Lead still needs to be fluxed to remove dirt and ash.

 

True enough, but I'm making mine.

 

Bricks, the type with an indentation in the middle and the name molded in the center, make an excellent casting source. Each Brick Ingot runs about 1/2 pound.