BUDK IS GARBAGE! Fallkniven tend to be delicate on the edge, they have a scandi grind. So, like, they chip if you hit a rock instead of rolling. BADASS knife though. The Cold Steel $200+ knives used to be made out of SK5, and I believe the more expensive SRK is currently the Seal Pup issue. Its the standard issue in my group.
I have... not that ezact one but pretty much the same blade. Suposedly designed to punch through somebody you dont like and pull out again, do a lot of damage and blood grooves to keep it from catching when you want it back. Not designed for any practical use that I can see... (unless your name is Dexter I guess.....)
Not so. Mine have always been convex and very robust. They come convex and shaving sharp. I have yet to have an edge issue with a Fallkniven. I have five. When I first got them, beat the snot of out them. That is why I ended up favoring the F1 over the S1. The false edge on the S1 would tear up a baton so fast. But not problems with the edge. Be careful. Fallkniven has been posting about Chinese knock offs. The originals are rock solid.
This here looks to have potential? 6 Gallon Copper Moonshine Still with Thumper Keg | BUDK.com - Knives & Swords At The Lowest Prices!
Pretty useless if you ask me, unless you want to stick something, maybe good for a one person kebab?...damn expensive kebab stick though... I imagine it does get some young men's attention but...totally useless in my book, pretty ridiculous too! LOL! @GrayGhost I went to our local Walmart and looked for the Buck 632. No-Joy. I might call their factory store and see if they got any as it's not too far away but I did read Buck stopped production of this knife, it didn't say why probably profit margin or maybe they imported it from overseas and the stock dried up... Reviews of it were really good, it wasn't great steel (420?) but for the cost everyone seemed pleased. I will have the wife look at another Walmart this week also as it is definitely bigger but understand this is knife, gun and 4x4 truck country so nothing in those 3 categories sits on the shelf/lot if they're a good deal. I'll tell you what the Factory Store says later on.
I like the looks of the Emerson Govt mule better. I am a fan of natural handles though for bonding to my hand. If a natural grip was available I'd go for that.
No. I do my own heat treatment. It'll be either 1070 or 1084. The 1084 is .183 thick. 1070 is around .125. probably go with the thicker one. Been trying to find a template for the knife or at least a pic that I could use to make one. All the pics I've seen are taken at an angle
That's really interesting, SDR. Ensure you show us all when you finish. I've never heard of those steels (1070 and 1084) but been doing a lot of reading the past couple days on steel and think I remember something about '10's' steel, need to see if I can find it again. If I do get the Emerson Mule (which I think I will), I could email you a outline trace if that would help, just let me know.
Trace would be good. A photo might be better. I should just try and draw it up. I'll definitely post pics when I finish. Might take a while. I'm in Colorado and my shop isn't heated. 10xx series are high carbon steels. The 1 means only carbon is added to the iron. Last two numbers is the amount of carbon. 1070 has around .70 percent carbon. I chose those steels mainly for the ease of heat treatment. After making a bunch of knives I don't see any reason to switch. I own quite a few factory made knives and I've found I much prefer the ones I make. Great edge retention, scary sharp, very tough and easy to sharpen. Although I've never used a knife made from 154CM. From what I've read about it it's one of the best steels available.
@sdr Great! Let us all know when you get to a point you want to show it off. We're not going anywhere - well - unless someone comes and bags me in the middle of the night for shooting my mouth off about 'medicine costs.' LOL! I'll give you a shout if Santa brings me this gem (Emerson Mule). I know it is over priced but man-oh-man I love his knives. EDIT: More carbon means it takes an edge real fast, becoming razor sharp quickly, but less rust resistant, probably doesn't hold the edge as well either, right? How did I do on first exam on steels? LOL I've been reading a lot later...
No, more carbon means means it's harder, holds an edge better, but it less resilient compared to iron. 1084 is about the best "basic steel" for a knife that size.
Early on I tried learning about different steels. What elements did what when added to iron. The different stages the steel went through during heat treatment. The advantage/disadvantage of each one. It was too much brain damage. My stainless steel knives are a pain to sharpen. Never could get them razor sharp and have snapped some in two. But are great at resisting rust. My high carbon knives are the opposite. I don't think it's possible to break one. I've tried. But if you don't care for them with a little oil they will rust. Here's a couple links that explain things better than I could. List of blade materials - Wikipedia Types of Blade Steel : Tomahawk Database Compare 20 Grades of Knife Steel Hope links are allowed.
The real trick is to have either : forge capability in mind or exactly what performance you are wanting from the steel that is different from an 10- steel, or else you just use an 10- steel, it is simply that good.
@sdr Damn! Another 'F'...it appears I need to leave the Steel to guys like you and @AxesAreBetter and stick to what I know...LOL! EDIT: Steel does amaze me though...when I think of the history behind it...the first real Arms Race, the correct metal for locomotive boilers, ships, gun barrels, even plows ...amazes me.
Not to rain on your parade but can someone please explain to me why a knife is worth paying over $100 for. He'll I only pay that for hiking shoes. My everyday dress up shoes I wont spend $100 on... Sorry I just don't get it... Steel is steel isnt it?
