Couple of "toss'n" boot type knives for a Monkey

Yes, three throwing spikes, and a slide on lever secured with a bit of cord or wire. Yes, there is a small hole, (or will be) to attach a secondary trip wire. With a square hole in the base of the barbed bait lever, and a square shank on the throwing spike for it, it would be used either horizontal or vertical as needed for bait or trip wire. The acute angle would bypass notch, and the right angle joint would bypass notch (same side) and any movement of the bait lever would cause the notches to release.
(With one or two secondary triggers by trip wires, even a close approach would trip the deadfall.

 

Nuff... My tribute to the late Ron Hood.

Here is his method of making a figure 4 trigger, including his notches and how he makes it more sensitive. Not sure how this will translate to steel.





Also, my guess is mucho work for our master smith.

IMHO, a promontory peg would be simpler and better use of @Bear's steel and time. The bait stick could be an awl or spike and the lever stick could be a blunt force instrument. Instead of trying to get all the parts matched and machined, the main "sticking point" for the peg would be making sure the parts that touch are rough enough to have the right friction. Probably a more efficient trigger. And I bet one meeeellllllleeeeoonnn ddooooolllaalaaarsss that it will be much easy for Bear.

Here's my friend Mikhail.

 

One other advantage of the promontory peg to the figure 4 is you will be less likely to drop your deadfall on yourself setting the trigger. Don't ask me how I know.

 

LOL... @Hanzo I am no "master" anything... except maybe desserts I humbly submit all the other food titles to you

Wow... that is the first time I've seen the "promontory peg".... I like it!

No worries... once I figure out all the pieces of @kellory invention.... I'm thinking some time with a file and it will be fast... maybe... only take me twice as long as I think instead of the usual 5-10 times as long.... but the square hole has me worried... depending on how small that is... I'm not sure I can do that one.... I don't have a mill or a lathe... so I'm thinking if I attempt this... it will be all files... for the notches... drill press for the holes and grinder for the points...

but yeah... "PP" looks much easier to make... in the field and the shop...

 

I bet "PP" is a bugger to set the bait on... unless you use thread or wire to wedge between the peg and stick... or maybe they just smeared grease or guts and the gnawing was enough to set it off...
I bet bone is a good material for this...
What say you @Hanzo

 

And as you know, I like sticks and pointy things. That's what the promontory peg is made of... one stick and one pointy thing. You can so a lot with that combo!

 

True enough, the bait lever could even be a sail needle and a matching hole I'm the trigger lever. ( would indeed be simpler. However, promitory peg would serve only one function.

 

Always bait BEFORE you set. Will be no problem. And yes, I have also seen the string on the bait piece with the bait on a string further under the deadfall.

Will be way easier to set than the figure 4. Sometimes, it seems like you should have three hands to set the figure 4. Not so with the peg.

 

Square hole is not needed, just a rod and a hole.

 

That's where we disagree. What can you do with a steel rod and basically an awl or spike? Or a wooden version?

Can baton and bash with the rod. Would make a decent rabbit stick. May fly better than the figure 4 pieces as it will be more balanced since it it symmetrical.

The spike can be an awl, a tent peg, a spear point...

And for defensive purposes, I submit that those two pieces will be much more comfortable in hand and devastating in use. I could do some mean damage with those without hurting my hands.

And you could have two sets of triggers for about the same weight as one set of figure 4. And I think the promontory peg is a more versatile trigger than the figure 4.

 

For me, I would rather have the hole in the pointy piece. Turn the awl into a sewing needle and can mash bait into the hole. Also, if you run a string to the trigger to place the bait deeper into the trap, that would be a logical place for it. And practically, less drilling.

But then, I do not know your objective. Just thinking trap trigger first, multi-use item second. But either way, my preference would be the peg. I prefer simple and easy. But to each his own. Not speaking for @Bear because I would not presume to do so. But I think the peg would be cheaper too, since it will likely take less material and less time. Cost is important to me since I do not have an unlimited budget. Wish I did!!

How do we add a support hanzo's toy budget donation button to the forum?!?

 

if the objective was simplicity alone, then this would be my most likely choice. If the object is to make a multifunction item, then not.
Honestly, I don't think round bar can do it, because the notches would have to go half way through before they would catch and hold.
On the other hand, if this is too complicated, or costly, then it serves no real purpose, and just scrap the whole idea.

 

perhaps I am reinventing the wheel, with the side notches.

 

Sometime when you try to reinvent the wheel @kellory you end up with a better way... never give up!!!!

on a side note... anyone here ever actually kill a critter with a dead fall... that concept just escapes me that it would be enough weight and fast enough to kill something... but then I've never actually set one... ( you know... if you kill it ... you have to eat it... don't want to eat a rat or mongoose ) maybe @Hanzo has a good recipe for one

me thinks a proto type in wood is a good way to go before grinding and filing on steel... square redwood molding is cheap and easy to cut sand or carve with you knife...

what say you do one in wood and show me?

Meanwhile... almost finish grinding the Monkey toss'n booties... then scales, a couple tool rolls and kydex sheaths and done!

 

Agreed that a dead fall trap is not worth the time unless you are going for mice, rats or squirrels. Snares would be a better choice and not require a Bear creation.

 

I've used it in conjunction with a live bird trap. My little monkey likes birds, so we do the catch, see and release. Birds got fed. We didn't eat them.

 

Snare wire is so light and definitely multi-purpose. Here's an easy and fast method. Wrap two loops near one end of the wire around a small twig. Pinch the wire ends (one long and one really short) at the twig, turn the twig like a propellor to twist the wire, break off the twig and your snare wire is ready. Just run the end through the double loop to make the snare noose and set it. I like that the double loop can also tighten on the threaded wire with tension.

 

I'll work up a prototype, before this goes any further.

 

@Bear , have no doubt about the weight be enough to kill. I could set a figure 4 trap no bigger than the one shown in the video that will support a thousand pounds and trigger with very little pressure. but bigger falls slower. (do you want to figure it out on your own or shall I explain it?)

 

I think I would need to see that one. And @Bear, I have killed a rabbit with a figure four set up outside a rabbit burrow. Blocked the rear entrance, and waited until it tried to leave. No bait needed, because it could not pass without tripping the trigger.