Hi All, I notice no mention of the venerable Colt 1911... The only time I ever had to shoot something, live, and moving, at about 30 yards or so, was a chicken killing hunting dog marauding my yard. One shot and down under stress, I was impressed. It fits me, and I think, from what I've read, the 45ACP has a little better stopping power than the 9mm...it sure knocked that dog off his feet and spun him around. Dog was probably 80lbs or better, big hound...after she killed 3 of my girls and my leghorn rooster. She, had a good day, and it was her last. Any thoughts on 45ACP vs 9mm?
Oh my. You are comparing apples and oranges. .45ACP is a dead serious caliber. 9MM is for girls, little kids, and those who don't know better. . . how's that?
OH, geez. Here we go again -- (Quigs, where's that 'toon?) Baggie, do a site search, you'll get more thoughts on that subject than you can imagine or care about.
It is an Age Old debate..... most have no real experience with either, in actual USE on Humans, UNLESS they have been in combat. Much of the actual DATA is NOT from Combat, but approximations on Ballistic Gell, and such. Both the .45 ACP and the 9MM, were WWII Rounds actually used in combat extensively, So I defer to the Research that was generated from that era to make "MY" assumptions, on the issue. I carry a Browning HiPower in 9MM, as my personal Travel Weapon. My opinion.... YMMV.....
That is true, Glock chambers are *more unsupported* ("unsupported" is impossible) than most. They are not the only pistol to have unsupported chambers. The early days of .40 S&W were full of unsupported chambers. This was quickly changed in most models as the pressure on some early .40 rounds rivaled 10mm rounds. Glocks are designed to shoot reliably from an unsupported chamber. The issue is when someone hand loads a round too hot.... and when I mean "too hot", I really mean TOO HOT. The unsupported chambers of Glocks are rated to +P+ in most models. How hot do you really need to load a handgun cartridge? If you are looking for that kind of velocity, its time to move up to a real handgun (revolver). As for the Frontier Scout, I believe it was only available in .22LR: Apples and oranges when comparing the mass and pressure of 9mm and .22LR. As for the 9mm v. .45 ACP debate, I choose .45ACP, but I've never felt under gunned with a 9mm. Either can work. Its more about the shooter (to an extent... we aren't discussing .32 and .45 here).
I want to thank everyone for the input. I have had the weapon for 2 months now and have not even loaded it. I have been in contact with the retailer asking for a refund and got the blow off catch all - Once it leaves our site we do not except returns. In other words the product is S**T he knew it and I got taken by the snake oil salesmen. Not entirely his fault - I DID NOT DO MY HOME WORK! I have been to a couple of gun shop in the area one told me to load the thing drive to a bad part of town park open the window go get a cup of coffee. Your problem will be solved and maybe in the mix you take a bad guy of the streets when it blows up in his face. This and throw it in the lake and walk away - Frame it as a reminder to do my home work next time - Sell it to some one (!). I have been told by the shop owners NO HOT LOADS OF ANY KIND if i were to fire it. Thanks again.
Take it to Candler Gun & Pawn and talk to R0ss. He's a trustworthy guy who happens to be a gunsmith. Candler Road Pawn Shop - Decatur, GA, 30032 - Citysearch
Case failures from would be more an issue than the adventuresome. However, case failure would be a potential concern of the reloader. How hot is an interesting question; if you mean my TC quite hot, Ruger moderately hot as compared to the TC. Semis are more upper mid range. 9mm FMJ has worked more than adequately in many wars so "hot" is a talking point for magazine writers and ammunition salesman. Obviously correct; as I believed HiPoint was the only manufacturer using I was surprised more by Colt using it than any caliber comparison. Using Ansys http://www.ansys.com analyzing a structure or mechanism with a known set of loads or fatigue it etc aren't rocket science so the hipoint issue is odd. Nope, I've carried both and either works. IMO, add how it fits the shooter's hand.
Hand fit is critical for many shooters, and it has ALWAYS been a Major criteria for Weapons Choice when outfitting a New Shooter, and especially a Female New Shooter. If it isn't "Just like a glove" it isn't going to be used and practiced with. That really is, what makes, or breaks, a Shooter. When I was looking to replace my 1903 Colt Pocket 38ACP, I spend DAYS hefting every conceivable hand weapon that I could lay my hands on. when I finally got my hand around a Browning HiPower, well it just felt like a well worn glove... Smooth, Ya Know....Just like it belonged there.... For "Me" that was my Handgun. I have many others in the Gun Locker, but my Browning is MY Travel Gun. Wherever I go outside the local AoO, it goes. No exceptions, it goes.... .... YMMV....
My wife bought a Walther PK380 for a CCW last year, and it has the most amazing grip on it. I was envious from the first feel of it. It has a feel like a hammer handle. It just perfectly melts into your hand. I would love to find something in a larger caliber with the same feel.
If you buy a good used example of any of dozens of high quality firearms, you will be able to get back what you paid if you decide to sell it. If you buy a Hi Point you won't be able to get back half of what you paid.
Did you ever call Ross at Candler? It sounds like you bought HiPoint's new model: the Politician...I guess their answer to Taurus' Judge and S&W's Governor. The issue with the Politician, however, is that it doesn't work and you can't fire it.... (bu-dump ching) Sorry...couldn't resist.
if it's a S&W, yes. Colt, probably. Others, probably not. [edit] sorry, I had revolvers on the brain when I replied. For automatics you're a lot more limited on what you can do to change the grip. My Walther P99 has interchangeable backstrap inserts to let you pick the one that puts your finger at the right distance from the trigger, but that's all the adjustment there is. The grip panels on a 1911 can be "standard" or "slim", but that's about it. You can get oversize rubber but there's not much you can do to make it smaller. Not much adjustment possible on a semi auto.
"Grip" is probably a confusing use of the word, in my post at least, but I'm not sure how to better express what I'm trying to say. In the case of my wife's PK380, it's more the shape of the magazine receiver, rather than an applied grip, that makes it so comfortable to hold. I have a Ruger SR9 for a CCW that has a nice feeling to it, and I liked it from the moment that I picked it up. It just fits my hand. I have found very few handguns that fit me like that one did. The PK380 really doesn't fit your hand like most guns do though. The magazine receiver is more of an oval shape, vice the strong rectangle shape of a Glock or similar pistol. The PK380 feels more like a hammer handle. It's probably more comfortable for someone with smaller hands, but I think most people would like it.
Woh. Pardon the sharp right in the topic but it looks like I have some applicable and potentially useful info . . . About a million years ago when i still thought using mass produced reloaded ammunition was a good idea I had what I have decided was a double-charged round go off in one of my 1911's. As most of you probably know, the "standard" 1911 barrel has an unsupported part of the cartridge case. Bottom rear of the case if the cartridge is in the barrel. When this round ignited it blew out that section of the case forcefully enough to cause the top round in the magazine to rupture and ignite. This shot the magazine out the bottom of the pistol and the grips off very very forcefully. . . didn't do much good for my hand either. I decided that it would be better all round if this never happened to me again ~ever~. Imagine that. [shrug] So . . being in possession of very little cash but having access to machine tools, I built myself two sets of plates. They go between the grip panels and the frame of the pistol and are made of . . you probably guessed it - steel. Using a milling machine I cut out just enough of the thickness of the plate (1/4" plate) to allow it to sit down in the holes in the frame of the 1911. Gotta avoid that plate protruding into where the magazine slides or you won't be able to feed your pistol. I left the rest of the plate "sticking up" and drilled two holes in each panel to set over the grip bushings. Have to make those holes large enough to allow a *second set of grip bushings* to set into them but not fit through them. The way this works is to take the grip panels and insert some double long machine screws. Thread them into the grip bushings NOT threaded into the frame of the pistol. Don't tighten them up, leave them about 1/2 turn loose. Now, on the frame of the pistol lay your steel panels. Lay the grip panel on top of that and carefully start the screws into the frame mounted bushings. be careful not to let the top set of bushings snug up while you tighten the grip screws. As the grips screws do tighten you will note that you can no longer see that upper set of bushings to tell whether they turn or not. That is *fine*. By the time you are that close you can just go ahead and tighten the grip screws. What you wind up with is a thicker (by 1/8" on each side, for a total of 1/4") but far more oval feeling grip. A lot like a hammer, or axe handle. Oh and as a (big) bonus, if you ever do encounter a double charged round, it'll still probably send the magazine flying out of the bottom of the pistol at mach III. But at least your hand won't be black, purple, and eventually green, for two months. I'll see if I can get some pix of this. One of my Norinco 1911's is still setup with them . . .
