Edge Geometry Discussion

Discussion in 'Blades' started by Hanzo, Jul 16, 2017 at 17:23.


  1. Hanzo

    Hanzo Monkey+++

    Most of my knifes are either convex or scandi. Some end up a kind of hybrid scandi-vex over time.



    What is your preferred edge geometry and why?
     
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  2. oldawg

    oldawg Monkey+++

    Scandi. They are the easiest (for me)to maintain even if all you have is a chunk of sandstone. Also as I have Moras everywhere and that grind just works for me.
     
  3. snake6264

    snake6264 Combat flip flop douchebag

    Tanto that way it will go thru the soft armor and a car door if needed strong sharp and pointy
    I'm more of a carbon steel guy that way I can sharpen with a rock if needed though not recommended
     
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  4. 3M-TA3

    3M-TA3 Cold Wet Monkey

    Carbon steel here, too. I like a full blade edge as opposed to an edge that only goes partway up the blade. I also prefer a full size tang.
     
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  5. snake6264

    snake6264 Combat flip flop douchebag

    I told a half truth I also love my MK1 Trench Knife
     
  6. Seawolf1090

    Seawolf1090 Adventure Riding Monkey Founding Member

    Depends on the knife's purpose. Sometimes convex is best, sometimes a hollow grind is best. I have only recently acquired a few Mora knives, so have little experience with the Scandi edge.
    Choice is always a good thing.
     
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  7. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    I have several knives with different grinds ,all have their purpose.
    The man with the edge, is the one that can work with what he's got, even better with a broader selection.
    I was actually thinking of making a knife with two different sides, a combination of edges .
     
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  8. Merkun

    Merkun dreamer

    For knives (as vs. other cutting tools such as axes or machetes) all of mine start with either scandi or hollow ground. Invariably, after time, use, and sharpening, they wind up with a compound configuration. I don't have any particular preference as long as the steel holds an edge. Whatever that stuff that Bear starts with is, then heat treats, works just fine.
     
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  9. Andy the Aussie

    Andy the Aussie Monkey+++ Founding Member

    Convex on my larger blades, V on the smaller generally but they also sometimes get a convex edge.
     
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  10. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki Grudge Monkey

    Convex for most of my blades, as it the easiest hand finish I can get with out using a blade guide! What ever factory edge I get, I end up convex sooner then later. I find I get good edge life this way, and while not as sharp as the other types like hollow ground, they do seem to stay sharp longer!
     
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  11. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    If it comes to processing wood a scandi grind is appropriate as it will take the abuse of battoning and splitting the fibers carving the wood abrubtly and generally holding an edge for that work very well, generally speaking.
    A hollow grind though it separates wood fibres well is rough work on the thin hollow and knots with in the wood are often unkind to hollow edges ,not a knife I'd want to be battoning, but a knife I'd prefer to do my butchering .
    The convex edge is a compromise between the two, IMO giving a strong edge that holds up well with abuse and maintains a good edge skinning.
    Many of my early knives I made convex on the leading edge and hollow after the belly .
    I generally do not batton my knives, preferring to use an ax when necessary .
     
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  12. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    Depends on the steel for me. In CPM154 I can do almost anything with a traditional beveled edge or convex, and I prefer an even higher quality steel for tough utility jobs with a traditional grind. I have favored A2 for convex blades used for skinning and bushcraft the most, and CPM3V will not disappoint either. I have lots of blades with Scandinavian grind, and Mora is definitely the best bang for your buck with its Sandvik stainless steel (14C28N) or similar variety. I do favor the convex edge more, but it's all in the way you use it and what intentions you have. I've tried a Scandi profiled blade in 1075 carbon steel and it rolled from gentle use on a pine two-by-four. A 1095 carbon steel blade with a Scandi edge may hold better, but only with a secondary bevel. Either of these steels may work well with a different grind, with the 1095 being more resilient and durable, and I have a few I use with a shorter (steeper) apex to help keep the edge keen. When it comes to Scandi vs. convex for bushcraft exclusively, it will all depend on your preference. The convex will always bite deeper into wood and flesh, and if it's made of a quality steel, will hold up very well. The Scandi will featherstick best and allow better control for carving without biting too deeply, which is a bonus for maintaining detailed results. So, it's a bit of a trade-off --but both will certainly get the job done. A traditional bevel will certainly hold up the best due to its short distance to the apex, but it's a 'master of none' kind of blade profile; this edge will definitely be sharp and work for you when you need it, though. I like the Convex most, followed by a Scandi and always have at least one traditional utility edged blade with me.

    It's all about knowing your steel and how to use it. STEEL And KNIVES (A Comparison and Explanation) | Survival Monkey Forums
     
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  13. M118LR

    M118LR Caution: Does not play well with others.

    Must admit I'm partial to the saber grind and a full tang on my field knives.
    Sharpening a Knife.
     
  14. Merkun

    Merkun dreamer

  15. M118LR

    M118LR Caution: Does not play well with others.

    But the topic was edge geometry, and you decided to overlook all the bits & pieces that were offered related to the topic at hand. ??
     
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  16. Merkun

    Merkun dreamer

    You opened the door. Ref your post #13.
     
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  17. M118LR

    M118LR Caution: Does not play well with others.

    Judging a book by it's cover are you???????
    Blade Grinds, shapes, etc etc..... Selective reading???? .... I may have opened a door, but I believe you were the one that selected not to take advantage of all the information available. JMHO.
     
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  18. Merkun

    Merkun dreamer

    You're new here so you may at some point get used to the idea that thread drift is a specialty of the house. Mods usually don't get interested in thread drift unless it goes WAY off the rails. That does happen when someone doesn't let it die. I'm done, carry on if you think it's worth getting in a last word.
     
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  19. M118LR

    M118LR Caution: Does not play well with others.

    Is that what some forums call baiting?
    I'm new, but I wasn't born yesterday!
    You have been called and you are screaming for Mod assistance, but I stuck with and added to the original agenda.
    So you have the last word, but it is inconsequential.
    I bow to your all powerful eminence Merkun.
     
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  20. GrayGhost

    GrayGhost Monkey+

    My interweb searches about forging brought me to this site about a year and a half ago. One member was striking to me. I stayed, and many more stood out. But....

    @Hanzo , I believe you need to lure/goad/bribe/coerce our iron monkey @Bear to weight in on this topic.

    As a suggestion, lure him with one of those fine suppers you seem to enjoy/flaunt so much!
     
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