I'm making this for a guy who helped me get started - his name is Dave Linn and he makes 1911 wood grips. When I first started I asked him if he had any wood that I could use and he sent me a bunch, and when I told him I'd make him a knife he sent me this 400 year-old Birdseye Maple to use on it. I finished it tonight and this is some neat wood! Being stabilized it sanded like granite! But, I used the grinder to sand it at 80 grit, then 180, 280, 400 and 600 and then buffed it. Then I could see what small flaws there were so I hand sanded it at 100 grit, then 220, 400 and 800 and buffed it again. Here it is - I wanted his knife to be a good one! If you need wood grips for your 1911 go see Dave at 1911 Pistol Grips
Heh - Actually I'm going to make Bear one just like it as I have one more set of this wood. I spent about 3 hours sanding this knife by machine and hand but it was worth it!
Very nice. Yes stabilzed wood if VERY hard to work with. As a woodturning I have used stabilzed wood (stabilized professionally and by myself) and it can be a bear to work with but yeilds super results. As far as sanding goes I know all about it. When making a pen I typically start at 220 then go 320, 400, 600 then I go to a product called micro mesh. The MM goes from 1500 (about the same as 600 sandpaper), 1800,2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000. The MM was deveoloped to "erase" the scratches in plexiglass so I can get a glass like finish on my pens (especially when I use CA, superglue as the finish) Ryan
Valkman, Melbo, The CA finish is easy to put on (at least for me), can be polished to a high gloss finish, and lasts a while. One of the downsides are the cost, CA is my most expensive finish, but also my quickest. Here is the way I apply CA. Since I use a lathe to turn the pens, I also use the lathe during the application of CA. After sanding the wood at 220, 320, 400, 600, then micro mesh 1500 through 12000 I wipe the blank down with DNA (denatured alcohal). After the DNA dries apply a light coat of BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil - this helps to "pop" the grain), whith the BLO still wet and using a folded paper towel I apply the CA with the lathe running at it's slowest speed. The first 2-3 coats of CA are the thin CA. With each coat I start with a layer of BLO, for these layers the BLO does "something" to the CA to help keep it smooth, and requires less sanding when I'm done. I apply 2 or 3 coats of thin CA, then 2 coats of Medium CA. If all goes well I start sanding at 400 then 600 then go to the MM. For more detailed information you can look at the International Association of Penturners (www.penturners.org) and search the forum for "CA application" or CA/BLO since almost everyone who uses CA also uses the BLO. Hope this information was useful. Ryan
Thanks Quig - man I'm going to see Bob Loveless tomorrow and I am pumped up about that! Woohoo! I'm taking the knife in this thread along with Seacowboy's Ivory Micarta-handled one and both of Melbo's knives to show him. I doubt he'll be impressed - he's been making knives since 1954!
They are called mosaics melbo just like you said and they are bought that way BigUglyOne through supply houses that cater to knife makers.
