How to stop a truck

Discussion in 'Firearms' started by oil pan 4, Jul 15, 2016.


?
  1. Shoot fewer well placed larger rounds and hopefully K.O. the engine or driver?

    15 vote(s)
    78.9%
  2. Throw boxes of smaller bullets, hope one finds something the driver cant live with out?

    4 vote(s)
    21.1%
  1. wideym

    wideym Monkey+++

    While in Iraq, my platoon had some nerve wracking experiences with suicide car bombers and insurgents trying to ram vehicles and gates. If you let a vehicle, even a sedan, get up to a decent speed-30mph or more within a block, then you are probably not going to stop it short of it's target without a hell of a barrier. One of the gate guards in one incident fired five rounds from his Mossberg 500 (18 inch barrel) loaded with #4 buck at 30 yards (measured from when he turned toward the gate at the time of the incident) and it didn't break the windshield. The windshield was broken by the insurgents head when he rammed the jersey barrier with his sedan and the bomb failed to detonate due to he remote tearing loose in the impact.

    Another incident happened when a suicide car bomber came barreling down a side street intent on impacting the humvee behind me. My only indication on what was going on was when the 240B opened up on it prior to it exploding 20 feet from the vehicle. I saw the sedan as impacts of 7.62x51 and 5.56 peeled back metal on and in front of the hood and spiderwebbed the windshield with the driver and passenger jerking when it erupted in and orange flash, smoke and dust engulfing the humvee. Luckily it was the newer 1114 up armored humvee and the crew survived with a major concussion and what we would later find out as TBI (traumatic brain injury) and no purple heart to show for it.

    We found out you need large solid barriers and/or large caliber weapons to stop a determined attacker in a vehicle and even then they might still get close enough to do damage. As some have indicated above, slowing down vehicles is a great way to mitigate it's effects. Sand traps, ditches, sharp S turns, spike strips, multiple cable fencing, and iron fencing. I'm not a big fan of concrete or hesco barriers though, as they can provide cover and concealment to attackers.
     
    Gafarmboy, SB21, 3M-TA3 and 1 other person like this.
  2. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    How the fuck do you get road side bombed and not get a purple heart?
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  3. hot diggity

    hot diggity Monkey+++ Site Supporter+++

    wideym and Gator 45/70 like this.
  4. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    But if you get scratched by a bit of shrapnel and the coreman puts a bandaid on you then you get one?
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  5. Witch Doctor 01

    Witch Doctor 01 Mojo Maker

    That's why you need to craze the windshield... Back in the 60's police had issues with .38's bouncing off of windshields. the issue was the angles of the windshields... their answer was to upgrade to the .357 Magnum. Your options are to either break the surface tension of the wind shield or Higher velocity and heavier slugs. We weren't dealing with truck bombs at the time just wanting to make sure folks in vehicles didn't make it through the gate.
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  6. oldawg

    oldawg Monkey+++

    Kerry ring a bell?
     
  7. Gator 45/70

    Gator 45/70 Monkey+++

    A lot of those boys considered purple hearts bad luck and so in doing that, Refused em'
     
    SB21 likes this.
  8. wideym

    wideym Monkey+++

    The take away is that you need to slow the approach of oncoming vehicles or they will be on or through your gate before you can take effective action. A scored or spiderwebbed windshield may not be easy to look out of, but if your target is straight ahead you don't really need to look out the window to run through the gate or run down a guard. Also, often an attack will come from multiple directions with a big, loud, obvious attack on the main avenue of approach to divert attention away from one or two smaller infiltration attacks from behind.
     
    SB21 and Gator 45/70 like this.
  9. oldman11

    oldman11 Monkey+++

    I'm saving four boxes Buffalo Bore .45-70 500 grain solids for just that occasion. Might be able to clear the back seat too.
    [flag]
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  10. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    If one is actually in an area this vulnerable to raming, a trench or mote around your castle might be in order.
     
    crowdaddy and Gator 45/70 like this.
  11. Gator 45/70

    Gator 45/70 Monkey+++

    Which way those bullets go when shooting into a windshield,Up or down?
     
  12. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    Bullets seem to deflect up slightly, at least with 5.56 since that's what I tested back in the day.
    I was actually surprised how much deflection there was. I only tested M193 5.56mm, probably should have tried 30-30 too.
    The steeper the glass the more deflection.
    Truck windows that are almost perpendicular to the ground will see little deflection.
    Your off set to the center line of the vehicle will also deflect the bullet.
    Firing from elevated position will lessen deflection.
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  13. SB21

    SB21 Monkey+++

    The bad part of shooting from an elevated position,, as in being the front gate guard , is that just makes you an elevated target for snipers. And wackos with RPGs.
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  14. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    Around these parts I will likely be the only wacko with an RPG7, if I can find a source the separation charge and booster section.
    At max V an RPG7 projectile is moving with about 10,000ft•lb of kinetic energy.
    Even with a inert warhead that 3 foot long mass moving at high subsonic should get someone's attention.
    You can reactivate a demilled RPG7 for under $2,000.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020
    Gator 45/70 and SB21 like this.
  15. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    I think I might invest in copper...
    Screenshot_2020-08-17-23-56-47. Can you smell what I'm cooking?
     
    Gator 45/70 likes this.
  16. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    I loaded up some barns 300gr FMJ with 22gr of H110 and a non magnum primer and heavy crimp, it's a compressed load.
    My speer manual shows 20.5gr as the max load in rifles and 22.5 for max load in handguns seated on the second crimp canal, both using a magnum primer.
    The recoil should be exceptionally savage in a handgun.
    Looking at the lehigh defense 265gr copper solids they should fit at least 1 more gr.
     
  17. oldman11

    oldman11 Monkey+++

    I have 500 gr solids in my 45-70 that will dothe job. I shot a junk ford six cyl engine from the side and it penetrated all the way to the piston. Do not shoot high enough to hit the heads as it will crack them but will not penetrate as they are too thick. I believe it best to shoot straight on thru the radiator that way the vehicle is not going far.
    [flag]
     
  18. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    Yeah 45-70 is boarder line antimaterial in modern loadings. Not the original 21,000ish psi loads, but the newer 30,000+ psi versions.
    I say shoot through the driver.
     
    Mountainman likes this.
  19. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    Looks like it's still a thing.
     
  20. apache235

    apache235 Monkey+++

    .375 Cheytac, 352gr bullet at 3000+ fps or for you folks in Commiefornia a .416 Barrett. If you get the Desert Tech you buy one chassis and multiple barrels up to .50 BMG. Well 4 barrels, the three aforementioned and .408 Cheytac for the HTI. Good luck on ammo for anything but the .50. Reloading is iffy as well ‘cause brass can be spotty, primers are non-existent but if you’ve got it, it’s effective as all get out.
     
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