How would you preserve a firearm redux . . . .

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by CATO, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. CATO

    CATO Monkey+++

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  2. CATO

    CATO Monkey+++

    what would be your thoughts about putting a bunch of your toys in a Yeti cooler (painted camo), add desiccant, and chaining it down in a pond?

    If you live in the south, you know that digging in clay is a futile endeavor unless you have a backhoe. I have a gas-powered auger, admittedly, not a very powerful one, and the clay stops it cold.

    **Save the "If it's time to bury them, it's time to dig them up" bravado--yeah, I get it, but, for discussion purposes......
  3. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    I vacuum seal firearms but haven't had good luck with ammo; the bullets pop loose sometimes due to the pressure differential.
  4. Airtime

    Airtime Monkey+++

    I have not as yet tried this for a firearm, however....

    I have been impressed and have had very good experiences with a product called LPS-3 (they make other versions like LPS-2 which is similar in purpose but far superior to WD-40) LPS-3 sprays on like any spray lubricant and wets the surface well flowing into the cracks and crannies. A solvent slowly out gases and leaves a waxy, almost cosmolene like coating behind that is very protective. It doesn't easily wipe off but a good dip in a solvent like kerosene, brake cleaner, etc. removes the coating.

    I'd let the LPS-3 dry for a couple weeks then heat seal it in a mylar bag that has been purged with argon and an O2 absorber added the way I have sealed grain.

    To purge the oxygen, I have a piece of aluminum tubing (like a wand) attached to a small tube I can connect to the regulator on the argon tank for my TIG welder. I put in an oxygen absorber, then plunge the wand to the bottom of the bag and flow a bit of argon and most all the oxygen is pushed out from the bottom up and gone in a few seconds. Hold a match or candle over the mouth of the bag a time or two to get a feel for the duration of gas flow for it to extinguish from oxygen deprivation indicating little O2 is exiting the bag. Quickly, heat seal the bag. The bag then is sealed in a 5 gal pail with another O2 absorber thrown in there too.

    I have sealed grain this way and it seems to work very well. It would seem that it would work for small arms and ammo too, but maybe one would skip the LPS-3 for ammo.

    CO2/Argon 25/75 mix used for MIG welding would work or even nitrogen for displacing the oxygen. I like the argon because I have it and it is heavier than air and I suspect it disipates the oxygen better than say nitrogen. I haven't tested this but this is exactly why/how it's used in the welding industry so I feel pretty confident. The match test affirms most the O2 is gone so I'm happy.

    I have mixed thoughts about the container to seal the bags inside. The problem with plastic is when stressed for very long periods of time (years) the plastic is said to "creep" meaning it moves or flows out from under the pressure. Clamping pressures on seals etc. reduce over time, bolts get loose even though they didn't turn one degree, etc. Seals need to have a high amount of compliance and be compressed a good distance so as the plastic moves, the seal will expand maintaining the seal. 5 gal pail seals aren't too bad.

    Metal does not have the creep problem and why ammo cans kept dry are good. But most affordable metal tends to corrode. A very good expoxy coating will last for decades under water (I used to do corrosion assessments in water tanks) but there is always some scratch, nick, pin hole, etc. where the water gets to be base metal and starts corroding and the oxidation spreads beneath the coating. I'd be hesitant submerging my life line without periodically monitoring it somehow. Hmmm... there might be a business opportunity for stainless ammo cans. Nawww, the common guy might have trouble affording them and the wealthy people will have their wealth taxed away so they couldn't get them either... unless it could maybe be a business expense some how... hmmmmm....

    Anyway, probably some other good methods. This is just how I'd consider doing it. Just thinkin...

  5. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Airtime, be careful with an open flame like that. Some grains can be explosive if the dust level is high. Grain elevator have been known to explode because of simple heaters or sparks and the dust chain-fires. (and you are blowing from the bottom out, so the dust would be heading for an open flame.) Just a thought.
  6. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

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  7. KAS

    KAS Monkey+++

    try a product called line backer ... they also sell a product called denzo tape.. it take a good cleaning to get it off but it work wonders...

    y a yetti cooler vs one that is not over priced...

    i dont recomend putting anything in the bottom of your pond wrapped in heavy weights .... realy good bad idea!!!!!!
  8. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    If your cooler is caught in the ice, it will be crushed. If it near the surface it will be seen in a fly over. If it is too deep, the pressure will increase with the depth. And the only container I would trust underwater longterm would be glued and sealed PVC schedule 40 pipe. Loaded with steel, lead, and copper, it will sink on it's own, and it would need to be safely beneath the lowest possible ice depth. And if properly sealed (no screw out plugs and with desiccant ) I would expect it to safeguard it contents for years. Retrieval would need to be by scuba though. ropes, chains, cables, would likely rot/rust off, and would lead anyone who found them, right to your stash.
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