This is how I make a knife in my garage/shop. First, I lay out the steel to be used. I used to buy 4" wide steel and then had to spend hours on the metal bandsaw. Now I buy 1 1/4" wide steel, and just mark out the knife and start profiling. See I can learn! :idea: I clean it off with brake cleaner spray as it has grease on it, then spray it with blue layout fluid. Then I lay my blank on there and etch the outline in with a carbide scribe. Next I go to the chop saw and separate the two knives on each piece, then grind the outline. This is called "profiling" the blade. When you're done it looks like this: Next is drilling the handle holes and tapering the tang - nowadays I use the drill press for this but I used to use a drill until I found out how important it is to have these holes straight! Using the drill press I also drill up to 16 extra holes just to remove steel and lighten it up. 8) Next I install the flat platen on the Bader grinder and taper the tang if I'm using 3/16" steel, which these are. I mark the end of the tang with blue layout fluid, then using calipers put marks 1/3 of the thickness of the caliper and grind to those marks. Otherwise the knife is way to handle heavy. This is a pic of the grinder with the flat platen installed - I also have a 10" wheel for hollow grinding and a small wheel attachment and 5/16" and 1" wheels. Now we grind - after profiling I mark the edge with blue layout fluid and using calipers etch lines in the middle of the steel .030" apart. This will be my edge before heat treat - any thinner and it can warp or crack. Using an old 50 grit belt and the 10" wheel I start the bevels and grind down to the caliper marks and also set the plunge cut. Then I switch to a new 50 grit belt and continue the hollow grind - if you use a new belt at first the square edges of the steel will ruin it. The new belt cuts the hollow grind pretty quickly, and I don't try and grind it all the way to where I'm going to want it. 70% of where I want it is fine. Then I switch to a 120 grit belt and grind some more, getting all the 50 grit scratches out in the hollow grinds and on the edges. This is important prior to heat treat. Now the blade is about 80% ground and is ready for heat treating. Now it should look something like this, although this one didn't get the tang tapered. Now I get out the refractory cement and out some along the spine of the knife, staying away from the tip. This one has way more cement on it than I use now, and it's too near the tip. Then we heat treat in my little 2-brick forge heated by a MAPP gas torch. These are the "tongs" I use for heat treat - small vise grips on the knife duct taped to 3/4" hollow steel bar. Works great and I still do it that way! I heat the blade up until it's non-magnetic, then quench it in olive oil. This causes the knife to become hard - way too hard to be a knife in fact, so now it goes in the toaster oven for an hour at 400 degrees. This will "draw" the hardness down to where it'll make a good knife, about 60 Rockwell hardness. This is what the knife looks like after heat treat: All black and nasty - it went through alot of stress with the quench and the tempering really helps it relieve alot of that. I buff off all the black stuff and look to see if it made it through ok - I haven't had one crack yet but it happens. Then I grind the knife again, taking the edge down to just before it gets sharp and making the hollow grinds just the way I want them. Now I cut out the handles - could be wood, micarta, G10. I usually use red liners so I cut those out too and use the drill press again. Holding one side of the handle against the knife I drill the handle holes through the tang into the handle material, then repeat with the other handle. I do the same with the red liners. Then I cut the pin material and use that to hold the handles and liners together while I grind the front of the handles to their final shape on the 4"x36" flat grinder. These edges won't be available to work on once I get these bonded on so they have to be finished now. I also flatten the tang side of the handles. This is how it looks when I work with it: When that's all done I rough up the tang surface with sandpaper and do the same to the inside of the handle material. Then I mix epoxy and blob it on, put on a red liner, then more epoxy and a handle and the put the pins in. All the extra holes I drilled will help the epoxy to hold on to the handles. Flip the knife and repeat. Then I clamp everything with quick-clamps (making sure I line up the patterns if I used mosaic pins) and let it set overnight. I use DevCon slow-setting epoxy because it dries clear and is waterproof. The quick-setting stuff is not waterproof so it's not good enough! The next day it's just a matter of grinding down the excess handle material and shaping the handle. Then I sand it to the finish I want and put a coat of Waterlox sealer on it if it's ironwood. Now the knife gets the sheath made, and when that's done the final polish is done and then it's sharpened. Hopefully they wind up looking like these: Hope you enjoyed this tour, and I hope you have broadband!