The first thing I do is ordered up some pre-cut and rounded arrow shafts that suit the bow you've got. Ebay is where I get my supply's from BUT you can make them from wooden shaft 'blanks' and sand them round. Note: If you have a timber supplier nearby and your own electric band-saw you could try making your own shafts for arrow-making. This is advanced stuff though and for another guide. For this guide I've assumed you've got a pre-cut and shaped arrow shaft. Having the correct 'spine' or stiffness counts here. If you don't get the right 'match' your arrow will veer off to the left or right. The more powerful your bow, the more 'spine' or rigidity it needs. Once you've got a bundle of arrow shafts (buying in bulk is cheaper) check each one for straightness, if it's badly bent try and straighten it (sometimes steaming can help with this). Nocks Next step is making the nock, where you notch an arrow. You can do this the fancy, easy way, or the old-fashioned way. The former is where you stick on an external plastic nock. To do that you should taper the last half-inch of the shaft to accommodate a plastic-nock. The old-fashioned way is to make your own nock out of the wood itself. This my way of doing it as you don't require purchase a nock. It also means there's no nock piece to 'fall-out' during the course of the arrows life being shot etc. The grain of the arrow is important, you must go at a right-angle to the grain. That is to say cutting across it. A vice for this part is real boon. One guy online doesn't use one (no access) so he just uses his knee's and his free hand to steady it! Now, using a hacksaw or equiv. Make a notch that's about a ¼ of an inch deep or so. Basically deep enough to get an arrow string into. A hacksaw is good (what I use and one I made as a teenager at school!). Also a padsaw is fine, possibly a bit more easier to work with for notch-making. Now widen the thin notch with a file set. I use two tools for widening it. A small, slender file and a strange coping saw with a circular file-blade in it. It's a strange little thing but it is well-versed for this kind of work. You can make your own shape for the nock edges. Or just leave it rough-cut. I try and make a 'bell' pattern so that the string goes into the notch with a mere smigen of resistance. That way an arrow will stay nocked even on 'stand-by' But not so tight that it could throw the arrow awry once it's released from an arrow. You'll want to reinforce the nock with binding, so use Somax thread or similar to wrap around underneath the nock. About ½ inch should be ok. For warbow rated longbows you may want to reinforce the nock with a horn insert... Arrow Lore: The Fletching / Arrowsmith guru's use horn inserts for the nock (if shooting with warbow rated bows....) Once your nock is complete you can weather-proof it. I use Danish Oil for this. But any wood-stain should do the trick. After it dries (3 -- 6 hours) you ought to reinforce the nock with strong thread. Not only will it strengthen the area, but it make's the arrow have an area you can take a purchase on a bit better.