Discussion in 'New Member Introductions' started by Reaper Silencers, May 20, 2017.
I'm here to see what Silencer features people here like and what they do not.
Like? There are only two measures when it comes to suppressors: How quiet are they and will they burn? Sez me, anyway.
(Of course, price has some bearing, which rules out high cost materials.)
Good aluminum with heat treatment and hard anodizing are a major plus, Baffle design using a monolithic pattern or "K" baffles, and ability to dissemble for cleaning are all tops on my list! I would add that ceramic coating, or "Jet Hot" all internals would also bee most excellent
Designs that use wipes ( unless you have a source for replacement) are best avoided, and overly complex designs, or ones that use titanium or carbon fiber are a pure waste of good money.
The best design is still the original Maxim patent, and Hybrids of that design, especially the Reflex are the very best, but almost no one makes them any longer state side, and importing a good one from over seas is not likely!
If I were to build the ultimate suppressor for my self, the Hybrid Maxim Reflex with two wipe sections and all the other desirable features I listed above would be the ultimate for me!
I'm curious, why no Titanium?
Cost, difficulty in machining, heat transfer, and brittleness with heat cycling!
SILENCE IS GOLDEN
I would agree with the Maxim design as being the most effective of the several suppressors that I own, including a Maxim that was sold at an Ace Hardware in Jackson, Tennessee in the 1930s to my grandfather. Wipes really slow down the gas and help but don't hold up well to sustained fire, especially automatic. Heat dissipation is a major concern, as is balance to the weapon it is being used on. I have a design for an integral suppressor for the AR platform that does not increase the overall length of the weapon that I have been trying to find manufacturer interest in.
What he said.
The main problem with titanium is when it gets heated to about 900 to 1000°F it starts absorbing everything from its surroundings, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, carbon, pretty much everything but the nearly 1% argon in the atmosphere.
If I was to spend that much money on something like that I would want to to be nearly invincible. So maybe inconel 625 at least for parts in contact with direct muzzle blast.
Titanium could be used for the tube as long as it doesn't get too hot.
I have only ever cut, prepped and welded titanium, I have not tried to machine it.
It actually wasn't super difficult to work with, but it you over heat it while grinding or welding it gets ugly fast.
Hard to add to what @Ura-Ki and @Seacowboys have already said. I have a couple made by SilencerCo for .22/.17 cal that are made from SS. No issues with them. They take down easily for cleaning, are lightweight/compact, and have held up under FA fire. My larger cal stuff is similar. If I can't take it apart for cleaning/service I have no need of it. One reason why I hate the set up on my MP5SD. Need to send it back to have it serviced.
@Seacowboys shoot me a PM if ya want. I know a top notch machinist that may be willing to help ya out.
I assume you are looking for a prototype to start with? I've a contact in MO that has "some" machining background.
We got to play with Silencers made all over the world, and as such, I got a real feel for what works and what doesn't. One of the best was a South African made unit that had a reflex section that went back over the barrel behind the muzzle about 5 inches and was stuffed full of axle greased steel wool. the front sections had a sort of rounded K baffle with a wipe between ever other baffle and a sealed wipe at the nose cap! Very high maintenance, but on a .300 win mag running full pop ammo, all you heard was the firing pin snap, and the bullet crack, and then a sort of funny hum as the gasses escaped the suppressor.
I'd of liked to seen that one
Be careful when machining your barrel to avoid any heating. If it were me, I would turn out the rifling for the section you are going to build on and I would cut through to the bore, counter clock wise spiral slots a few inches long, and leave the muzzle end free for normal threads to attach the unit with! Just an idea based on what the military did with several .22 pistols and the Brits did with the smg's used by the O.S.S.
The ones for the MK VI Sten weren't that way-were they? Been doing some research on those lately and can't find much.
For those interested.
Reaper Silencers Home
Support the The Hearing Protection Act of 2017—H.R. 367, introduced by Rep. Jeff Duncan (R-SC) and John Carter (R-TX)—resurrects a 2015 proposal by then-Arizona Rep. Matt Salmon to ease suppressor ownership restrictions on law-abiding citizens.
The insanity in DC will not help an already uphill battle.
When Will the Hearing Protection Act Pass?
Here's a feature I'd like to see - many of us have flash hiders that are threaded or set up for a qd/bayonet system that only works with one silencer manufacturer. If you want to expand your market design it to use an interchangeable adapter so I don't have to either change my fs or get a different CAN. I love me my Smith Vortex, but I'm limited to their silencers. No big deal, but if I had other choices....
Looks like most of this guy's stuff is direct thread onto the barrel.
Both the Sten and the Wel-Rod used that sort of design! Later Sten's had a simpler design that used holes drilled in a spiral pattern counter clockwise down most of the length of the barrel. Thy both used a sort of Maxim design but with ever decreasing space between each baffle and leather wipes. The Wel-Rod was not serviceable, it was thought the only way to clean one was to boil it out in light machine oil and then let it air dry.
During WW ll, we dropped ten of thousands of single-shot .45 pistols all over for the Resistance to use to procure more effective weapons by...
Anyone ever heard of using a popbottle as a suppressor in a. 22 I've heard if you put it over tge end of your barrel it quiets it down quite q...
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