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Parkerizing - bluing tank heater

Discussion in 'Firearms' started by Seacowboys, Apr 23, 2008.

  1. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    I have a stainless 6" x 10" x 40" parkerizing tank that I needed a heat source for to finish some rifle parts. Parkerizing is a fairly simple process that doesn't require a lot of preparation but does need some basic components. Midway and Brownel both sell the solution in gallon size jugs. You mix this with four gallons of distilled water. You really need to use distilled water because chlorine, minerals, or even flouride will screw up the finish. You need to heat this solution to 175-190 degrees and maintain this temperature through-out the process. You also need to drop a steel-wool pad into the new solution at temperature for 30 minutes initially to get the solution prepared.

    Steel preparation consists of blasting the metal; if there are any remnants of the old bluing, it will make ugly black spots. the parts have to be cleaned and degreased. I use brake cleaner to remove the oil and grease then put the pieces through the dishwasher with ordinary dish-washing soap. I use stainless wire to hold the pieces being treated in the solution. After the part reaches the shade that you desire, put it under the garden hose to rinse it off and brush it with oil to completely arrest the process, otherwise, the part might continue to cook and ruin the finish.

    The heater I made by taking a length of 1/2 black iron pipe and drilling 3/32" holes the length on 3/4" centers. One end is capped and the other end is reduced to 1/8" pipe thread (brass bushing with 90 degree elbow) to connect the regulated propane source. Use a welding type regulator, the grill type will work but it is very slow and if the wind is blowing, the flame will run up and down the pipe. I used a pair of bricks with holes to insert the burner and hold the tank on top. This worked out very well and made a stable platform to work from.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2015
  2. franks71vw

    franks71vw Monkey+++

    I get my Mn solution from shootersolutions and I wouldnt recommend putting in the brillo pad inside. Just mix the solution and your good to go the biggest problem is that you need to maintain the park, a rinsing tank and the metal at 190 degrees while doing all this. I would recommend to boil all your parts in a tank with degreaser. Then blast/ rinse/ and have the parking solution going so you can dunk the parts rinse again. go to www.projectguns.com excellant park instructions never fails...
  3. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    I prefer using manganese phosphate too but I usually buy from Midway and they were out of stock and I had been wanting to get those two FNs done while I am off. My schedule only lets me do what I can when I get home on these rare occasions. Zinc needs the steel-wool pad to prepare it, manganese doesn't. I got both rifles back together today and they look much better. I am waiting on a new furniture set for the Izzy to get here. I like the darker manganese finish better.
  4. Pitdog

    Pitdog Dark Lord

    Do you use the blackening solution?
    I converted an old oven to bake parts in for my spray on finishes, and when I park handguns and small parts, I use a stove eye and a s/s Pot. Got to order a s/s tank for doing the big stuff, but that will go on my existing blueing setup.
  5. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    No, I just use zinc phosphate or manganese phosphate diluted with four parts distilled water. I'll post a pic of my STG58 later today, if I can get around to it: it came out pretty good.
  6. franks71vw

    franks71vw Monkey+++

    Yeah I do Black oxide and then after finished I oil it down and give ti a rub down. gomes out Jet black and awesome I may say....
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