Recommendations for a too tight leather holster

No. This was way back when I was still living in the US.

 

according to all the manufactures of said holsters... NO grease or OIL... owners often regret using such later...

holster often fail later... get too lose or even come apart... something about the grease or oil stayin IN the leather?

best advice I have received thus far... use a FREEZER bag... or very think mil plastic material...

NOT saran wrap... to thin and easily torn...

place firearm in freezer bag... insert let sit for up to a week... and keep working it from time to time...

sometimes maybe even double over the freezer bag...

this is what I have done with said products... over time.. works... and holster stays in as delivered condition...

and firearms fits just right not too lose not to tight... and a certain retention is still there...

claim is you will be way more please with the result over time and the holster will last a LOT longer... YMMV?

(YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW HARD IT WAS FOR ME TO NOT MAKE A CERTAIN TYPE OF JOKE WITH THE ABOVE!!!)


AHHHH here ya go... instructions for the last leather holster I got... came with the holster...

step 1 open your brand new holster and make sure to safety check your firearm before starting the break-in process.

step 2 insert firearm into the plastic bag your holster came in. This adds padding and protection to the firearm.

step 3 with your firearm still in the plastic bag. simply run it and and out of the holster until the leather begins to soften and loosen up.

(AGAIN... GRITTING MY TEETH AND NOT MAKIN A JOKE HERE!!!! )

the things I sometimes have to go through... <sigh>

 

Horse hide for the backing and an industrial heat set plastic for the holster.
Reason? Dirt and grim, the horse hide is thinner than cow and feels near perfect for a IWB from day one. Over time the "plastic" holster will wear any coating on any gun I have ever seen.
Holster life? I have a leather Bianchi purchased the same time as my first carry single action revolver that still holds in there and has been washed more than once. I recently refurbished it with a Leather Coating that allows it to be wiped clean with a damp cloth.
I have no doubt that holster will be passed on.
I never use oil as it is too difficult to know when to stop applying where as Snow Seal or Mink Oil can be applied in very small quantities until it feels right.

Stitching? Never use cotton, in doubt ask Randall Knives why they went to rivets for Viet Nam Knives.
Flat lacing nylon works well for hand sewn holsters.
Kevlar sewing thread comes in many sizes and is my choice for hand sewn refurbished holsters.

 

It is cow leather.

Just to close the loop... It appears to have worked! I took the pistol out to sort of test it this morning and it is much, much better. The holster is still not 100% dry (about 98%) but definitely looser. I have stuck the saran wrapped pistol back in it and will check it Sunday night or Monday morning and have already purchased some mink oil to treat it. Thanks to all!

 

@OldDude49 "according to all the manufactures of said holsters... NO grease or OIL..."
Thanks! I will check into it before I use it. I can use the mink oil on my boots so no great loss.

But, I can assure that plastic bag procedure will not work on this holster. Why? Because I tried it and spent literally hours working this holster trying to break it in. No, it will not work. All I did was tear the bags. Honestly, it was so tight that it was almost impossible to get it out.

 

actually just use the freezer type bag and once in the holster let it sit for about a week...

was what I was told by one manufacturer and I found for my needs that worked best...

although I found I had to let it sit for nearer 2 weeks ....

but worked great and holster fits perfect... YMMV?

 

Old and new.

 

The reason I use the thin wrap is to better control the expansion. An extra wrap or two can be added if the first try is still too tight.