Russian Fireplace

Discussion in 'Back to Basics' started by ozarkgoatman, Jan 12, 2009.

  1. ozarkgoatman

    ozarkgoatman Resident goat herder

  2. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    What, are these bricks farkin floating or something?

    How are those rows of bricks supported?
    How do they expect you to do David Copperfield masonry?

    AH HAH!

    Now this makes sense. Quite an undertaking. I really like the idea....thousands of years in use, and still working.
  3. ozarkgoatman

    ozarkgoatman Resident goat herder

    The smoke chamber is typically lined with chimeney tiles. [beer]

  4. kckndrgn

    kckndrgn Monkey+++ Moderator Emeritus Founding Member

    COOL, thanks for the links OGM.
  5. Clyde

    Clyde Jet Set Tourer Administrator Founding Member

    This is the most efficient wood burning furnace I have researched.
  6. ozarkgoatman

    ozarkgoatman Resident goat herder

    Me too Clyde. I figure I could build about 20 of them with all the rock I have on this farm and still have plenty to spare. [rofllmao]

  7. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    SO you are saying you could build 21? [beat]
  8. ozarkgoatman

    ozarkgoatman Resident goat herder

    With all the rock I have on this farm I likely could build at least that many. ;)

  9. NVBeav

    NVBeav Monkey+++

    Question: I didn't get to read the whole article, but I'm wondering how you clean the areas deep inside the baffling so you won't get a chimney fire?
  10. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    Drawings show cleanout doors on the sides. But you GOTTA be able to clean it out if fired as they recommend. The worst thing you can do with a fireplace is heat it up and cool it down. Stack temps should be kept above around 300 from bottom to top or creosote will make a believer of you.
  11. Clyde

    Clyde Jet Set Tourer Administrator Founding Member

    There is very little soot as the fire burns twice...once in the fireplace and then the gasses burn up for very minimal smoke...or so they say.
  12. overbore

    overbore Monkey++

    Thanks to a tornado, we now have a good, tight, free drawing brick fireplace; not the efficient one you show. My question is, and is is going to be a "balmy" 11 f tomorrow morning, ( global warming don't cha know--) how do we modify or add to our good chimney /flue system to get an efficient combo unit that heats and cooks? Many thanks for leads and links.
    Cordially, Overbore
  13. RaymondPeter

    RaymondPeter Simple Man

    Masonry and ceramic stoves feature a serpentine arrangement of exhaust ducts to capture the heat before it can escape up the chimney. The stove is built entirely within the house. It is fired for a brief time with a very hot fire and damped only after the wood has burned down to smokeless coals. The heat from the fire is absorbed by the masonry (or stones in Ozark's case), which slowly radiates it into the room (or house if you are using a large stove). From one firing enough heat can be stored in the masonary to warm a room for two days (thanks to its thermal mass), and the heat given off remains remakably even for that period. Since the fire burns hot, little ceosote forms in the exhaust, making the stove one o the few wood-burning devices that can be left untended for long periods of time without collecting creosote.

    Because of their weight (especially if you are planning on installing one large enough to heat the whole house) you must be sure that your foundation can handle the added weight of the structure. If it will not be able to withstand the added stress, you will need to take steps reinforce the foundation where the stove will sit (or under where it will sit).

    These are wonderful devices when installed and used properly. There is a reason they have been in use for so long. Good luck Ozark and keep us posted if you do eventually instal one!
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