I'm a fan of EZE-Lap: Eze-Lap Diamond Products, Inc. « Eze-Lap Diamond Products I've been using a pocket model for close to 30 years. Nothing wrong with other sharpening stones - the EZE-laps just work faster.
So could I just use a 400 grit? Or would one of these multi-packs be a wiser purchase? Diamond Hone & Stone Sharpeners « Eze-Lap Diamond Products Nice link @3M-TA3
I'd get the 5 piece kit for it's versatility, but I'm also a tool head... For hatchets and axe's the 400 would probably be just fine. The nice thing about their product is that the diamond bort goes all the way through the material. When it clogs up with material from whatever you are sharpening, just wash it with soap and water and it's good as new.
@Motomom34 , in truth, unless you intend to shave with your hatchet or Axe, a simple metal file is close enough. You are not making feather sticks, or slicing newsprint with it. I carry a straight, flat metal file for touch ups when needed, and never let the edge hit the dirt. (That will dull it faster than anything else you can do without deliberate abuse.)
Thanks @kellory I think we have a metal file. I can try that on the hatchet. How did you know it had hit dirt? was used for root chopping.
Here is how I learned. How to sharpen a knife or ax -- Boys' Life magazine Of course Gore had not invented the Internet so I had to learn in the wild at a camping trip.
Then it has surely hit dirt, , but you already know it is dull. A file is used, to straighten out a rough edge, remove the burrs, and get the edge close to perfection. A stone. Ceramic rod, or stone, just puts the finishing touches to that already sharp edge. And for a field tune up, close enough that is usually good enough. . Basic Axe Sharpening:
You did that in 10 minutes? I have been practicing on that garbage hammer axe I got but maybe I will start on the hatchet because I am getting little results on the other. What grain (?) did you use?
I don't even know, moto. It is one of many old files. Overall length of about 12" and about a medium coarseness. I'll snap a pic tomorrow if you like. The important thing is to keep the file parallel to the angle at all times, so you are just smoothing up the surface of that angle, not changing it, or rounding it.
@kellory just wondering. Maybe I am using a file that is not course enough. If I run my thumb along the file it doesn't rough up my skin.
Or, your file may be choked with dirt and old filing. A short bristle wire brush is made to clean them, by brushing parallel to the file grooves.
That short bristle thing is called a "file card". A good thing to have around. That said, files do wear out, it might be time for new. If the edge is really dinged up, start with coarse, finish with medium. You do not want shaving sharp 'cause it won't stay that way. Ax edges need to be more blunt than tapered simply due to the forces they have to resist on impact. See this for different profiles depending on use - axe edge profile - Google Search And here's more - Boys axe edge/profile
If it chips, it's apt to be because someone overheated it on a grinder and hardened it. Curls sorta point to the right heat treatment, soft enough to not chip, and someone hit something an ax should not hit.
Like nails or spikes, or even barbed wire, that may still be in the wood. Or you have clipped a splitting wedge you were trying to free from a twisted grain.