Not so, receivers can be had as a title one weapon and you can install. 37mm barrel, need the form four in hand to install a 40mm barrel.
FWIW, there may be an answer to that at the Handloaders bench. There's a link on our forum main page.
If I lived closer I would ask what you were loading when and offer some powder in exchange for reloading some rounds for personal use....
On the 38 super... noticed the bullet size is pretty much the same as 9mm? are the bullets interchangeable? and links to loading data for same would be really nice... ?
Actually, NO, the 38 ACP, and 38 Super Projectiles are NOT the same as a 9mm Projectile.... It is the difference between .355 and .357.., Stuffing a .357 down a barrel, designed for .355 causes considerable extra friction and Barrel Heating per Round. Also a .355 going down a .357 Barrel will not get the rifling cut depth, that the projectile was designed to get, and it empacts the accuracy of the Projectile...
I help my son reload all the time 12 and 20 gage then 30-06,30-30,7.63x39,44 mag. and 44 special.357 and 38 special,45 acp and cast bullets for all and for the 50 cal and 45 cal black powder guns I'm still learning so I can help him more ----the family that reloads together stays together ---------- p.s. love your post
I shoot the same buillets in my 9mm as I use in my .38 supers and haven't noticed any difference in accuracy and I shoot a LOT of .38 super, not so much 9mm though, only a few thousand rounds a year.
Was think that was possible due to bullet diameter being the same that is why I asked the question... In my Lee reloading manual I see .356 for .38 super and .356 for 9 MM? In my Speer reloading manual same thing although I see .355 to .356 for both... and my Lyman also show same bullet diameters? .38 special NOPE .357 as is .357 mag... now those do NOT appear to be interchangeable with .38 super... So? ? ?
Late comer to this thread but I have 9.3X74R brass that I fire formed to 410 give just shy of a 3 inch shell. 303 can be fire formed but the case must be annealed leaving just say less than a half inch un-annealed. 444 Marlin but you may need to thin the head from the front edge of the rim so the barrel will close and mark them so you never use them in a 444 Marlin. Annealing is for me standing the case unprimed in water to the height you don't want annealed (made dead soft) so get the brass red hot uniformly and tip it over in the water it is now annealed. next step is to fire form there is some argument on how much and what powder but I'll leave that to others to research I use what I know to be a safe charge and fill with cream of wheat no cover over the cream of wheat load the shell pointing up to keep from spilling the cream of wheat ,all it does is add weight so the charge will build back pressure and the cream of wheat will push out and form the case to the walls of the chamber of your .410 if at first you do not succeed re-anneal and try again. Once they are formed that's it I have used the same shells for years my cover is a cut tight fit round of 20# paper patch and fill with wood glue about a 1/4 inch thick allow to dry and you have a 410 shell. Just remember you have to build the load just like any other shotgun round 45 cal / diameter wads of cork and from other material like card board and fiber and base wads work best .410 hull material is too small in diameter you want a firm fit I use a hole punch for cutting cork and cardboard you still need to use the . .410 load data for powder shot weight for the length of shell, so your pressure does not exceed SAMMI specs. Last I use Mica slick from Ballistic products it is powder that reduces friction for the internal components. Look up .410 hulls that have been cut to show the internal assembly of factory hulls many are a base wad wood dust and then a cork or paper thin wad and the charge or the slug, but reading their material it is like high science and unobtainable internal components made by elves in a magic tree. There are rules charge of powder and weight of payload of shot or slug is not variable, because a brass shell is not crimped (it can be but must be tight against the overshot card loose means KABOOM. but with a glue or waterglass or whatever that will dry and keep the overshot card and shot in place while you banging you shot gun against trees is fine these shells will not have the pressure if they are not crimped. Factory crimped shells are crimped this adds resistance to allow the charge to build up pressure before the crimp releases, this only takes thousands of a second but it makes a difference. but for killing small game it works brass shells with a glue crimp work fine but like any load you should pattern it to see if another powder load and combination will pattern tighter / better. This post is not by any means a totality of the information each person assumes personal responsibility for their work and research in loading I assume no responsibility this is academic theory and always were safety protection when experimenting with reloading.
That's what I was going to do. Buy the receiver, put it on a form one as being both a 37mm and 40mm DD. If you have a legal 40mm launcher and stick a 37mm barrel on there and fire hard ammo other than a flare you probably won't get in trouble, but best to be fully covered.
