The Jeep Corner, Mechanical, Sheet Metal, Welding, Electrical, Paint and Modifications.

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by HK_User, May 1, 2014.


  1. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Just ordered a 4 corner suspension set for the 0ld Mil Jeep. Time to start so as to be finished by winter.

    Any other "Jeep Heads" on the monkey tree?

    [​IMG]
    Complete Suspension Overhaul Kit
    Fits 50-52 M38

    Complete Suspension Overhaul Kit

    This comprehensive kit covers everything for both the front and rear of vehicle. Kit includes:

    New Front Leaf Spring Assemblies (8 leaf)
    New Rear Leaf Spring Assemblies (9 leaf)

    New Front & Rear Shock Absorbers (4)
    New Front and Rear Shackle Kits (4)
    New Front and Rear Pivot Eye Bushings (4)
    New Front and Rear Greasable Pivot Eye Bolts (4)
    New Front and Rear Leaf Spring U-Bolt Clips (8)
    New Front and Rear Leaf Spring U-Bolt Long Nuts (16)

    Everything you need to make your vehicle ride like its new front the factory!!

    Fits:
    50-52 M38

    Note:
    Please specify whether you have early open ended style shackle suspension (greasable pivot eye bolts) or late closed ended style shackle suspension (non-greasable pivot eye bolts).
     
  2. Sapper John

    Sapper John Analog Monkey in a Digital World

    Oh yeah! I am a serious Jeep Head! Just finished restoring my 1979 CJ-7 last summer. Bought it brand new as a young Marine. I have over 568,000 miles on it with just one engine rebuild about 20,000 miles ago. It is powered by a 258 straight six with a Manuel 3 speed. It was originally a Golden Eagle. I would never sell it. I have also owned a couple of CJ-5's. They are great vehicles. My CJ-7 is currently sporting a tan paint job with a 4 inch lift and 33" tires.
     
    tacmotusn and Mike like this.
  3. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    I have the 52M38 and a 42GPW, both will stay close to stock. Street springs are a must, other wise the ride is like a hard tail Harley.
     
    mrghostwalker, Mike and Sapper John like this.
  4. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    Awesome!

    I used to have a set of CJ2A and a CJ3A, but traded them both on a running CJ-7. The -7 was the worst trade I ever made in my life, as I got rid of a whole jeep for parts and another that actually ran for a rusted framed CJ7.

    I now have an 88 YJ that came from down south, the only thing rusted on it are the floorboards; the frame is mint. (By salted yankee standards.)
     
  5. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    I'm extremly lucky on the M38. The floor had repairable rust spots but more than I thought was worth the effort. Then up pops a new one on Ebay with all the extra inspection plates for that year. Price was 1/3 of any dealer price and only 300 miles away. So, dodging the OK tornadoes we collected it and also saw a nice Mil vehicle collection at the same time.

    The floor will be after the suspension and then a lot of minor body work.

    Bubba and his cetalene cuttin' torch hacked both rear springs to lighten the springs a bit.

    Pictures of that expert work when I get it up in the air later this week.
     
    Sapper John likes this.
  6. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    Cool, waiting for pics!

    At the moment, I'm working on quite a bit of a newer Jeep- a 97 TJ. It's a 4 cylinder that I want to keep running, and hopefully get it back to 20 MPG or better. Right now it has a timing chain issue where the tensioner lets it bounce a little and makes the computer think it's getting a missfire.

    I'm thinking about getting a remanufactured head and having it ported and polished. The only problem with going that far is that I might have to get the fuel curve remapped. I don't know if this is possible on the older models.

    I have a new set of headers, intake, and a bunch of aluminum parts that will make it lighter and get rid of my shovel (transfer case crossmember) with a tummy-tuck at the same time. An aluminum gas tank skid will replace the stock one with half the weight. Aluminum bumpers are on the way.

    I just received the electric fan to replace the viscus fluid belt driven cooling fan, and will be the FIRST thing I replace, as I hate how the enormously long black plastic air dam takes up the majority of the engine compartment. With that replaced, I can do a bunch more under the hood.

    If I could source the parts, I'd get rid of the power steering pump and put a slightly larger steering wheel on it. I'm sure that would be good to gain a few ponies back from.

    The shame of it is, with a new set of tube fenders and NO lift, this Jeep could sport the same size tires as my daily driver with a 2 1/2" lift and a host of little problematic issues that I just live with. If I can keep it light, and make the engine more efficient, I can't see how the MPG wouldn't go up. Just how much is another question entirely.
     
  7. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Best way I can increase milage is with the overdrive kit. Which will happen when it is ready for the road. Tires on the M38 are 16 inch radials, the GPW will carry a set of the style used in WWll that are truck tires, instead of the mudder tires of WWll.
     
  8. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    I've seen the Saturn Overdrives for the old jeeps, I just wish somebody would make them for the newer ones. I don't need massive torque to drive down the highway at 60mph. They make gearing doublers, why not overdrives? I would love one since my DD Jeep has 4:10's and only 31's. Works great on the trail, but the highway sucks down the gas.
     
  9. mrghostwalker

    mrghostwalker Monkey++

    I love me a good Jeep! I have a 1995 YJ (the last of the real Jeeps or a CJ7a as I like to call it) that I'm hoping to pull the body off this summer. I need to patch the floor and spruce the whole thing up. Keep us updated on your re-build!
     
  10. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    DSCF2226.JPG
    DSCF2227.JPG DSCF2231.JPG

    New bumper is on the way DSCF2225.JPG

    DSCF2228.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
  11. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    Holy crap, Batman! They really did butcher the rear springs!

    For some stupid reason, I keep thinking about what I would have done if I had not traded my Cj-2A and 3A away... I keep thinking that a GM 2.1L four cylinder motor would be really nice to have under the hood. Stock it puts out 85 hp, and would have far better gas mileage and be more reliable to boot. Just a dream, though. Just like putting a 1.8L VW turbo diesel under the hood.

    The wheel spacer was a good idea. I broke off half of the wheel studs on the other side because I didn't know that they used a left hand thread back then. I kept hammering away at the nut with the impact wrench and followed up with an elongated breaker bar and they just fell off. Not quite what I had in mind!

    Nobody I knew worked on these old jeeps... Until I told people what I did and then they come out of the woodwork- and tell me how ignorant I was. I actually hate working on vehicles, but do it anyway.
     
  12. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Those of a certain age remember when most all Lug nuts were right and left. Notches and other indicators in the nuts, or a R and a L stamped into the ends of the studds.

    Yes this jeep is a bit old but I'll just do one part at a time. The electrics are changed to 12V and that means a real alternator and a starter too. Gauges were all missing but I've found a new english Speedometer and the gauges will be 12 volt too. After the suspension, front bumper and wheel spacers I'll replace all the Brake works and convert to a dual Master cylinder. Then on from there. I have an electronic distributer that appears as a resto unit and a new carb. Lots of small things to do and It'll be well into next year before it is on the street.

    As you can tell the wheels are not from the 50s and the tires are good AT Radials.

    The wheels are 700 x 16 M151s and I had to open up the center to use them on this older M38.

    I will "box" the new bumper with some steel and solve the collapse problem of old that the Mil tried to prevent by adding a bit of wood in the open channel bumper. I'll not do anything to the base vehicle that cannot be undone should anyone want to do a full Resto after I turn loose of it, when ever that is.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
  13. Tracy

    Tracy Insatiably Curious Moderator Founding Member

    :cool:
     
  14. ColtCarbine

    ColtCarbine Monkey+++ Founding Member

    I'm resurrecting a '93 Grand Cherokee for my daily driver. Once my daughter is legally driving in a couple years, it will be her rig to drive. This rig needs a brake job, has the typical window switch/wiring issue and possible automatic transmission rebuild. Bought it as a mechanic's special for dirt cheap. I'm not afraid/worried about throwing parts at it, better to rebuild an older vehicle that being strapped to a vehicle payment for an over-priced new vehicle.

    I also have a 1974 DJ-5 left hand drive courier, sitting on the back shelf for a off-road/gravel road 2WD play toy.

    I have no intention of restoring this rig, being it's been alterated from stock. The solid top has been cut-off, roll cage added, sliding passenger/driver's doors been removed, sheet metal doors w/hinges in place of sliding doors, rear door panel has been cut and welded in place. Kinda looks like a 2WD CJ-5.

    I don't have much to do to it, to drive it on the street. Needs new king pins, front leaf spring bushings and new steering linkage. I might rattle can paint it, not sure. Not to concerned with it's appearance, being it's gonna be a toy.
     
    Sapper John, HK_User and BTPost like this.
  15. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Paint Can.JPG

    The war time jeeps did not have primer!

    They were spray painted on an angled conveyor deal, first one angle then another. Turn two guys loose with 5 gallon paint pot and spray till the next one came along.

    Mine will be rattle can.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
    Tracy likes this.
  16. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Some done, a lot more to do

    New Front Bumper in the white.

    M38 Jeep New Front Bumper in the White.JPG


    This is the "AFTER" of the right front spring and hanger replacement and a new shock.
    M38 Jeep New  Shock Front, Spring, Spring Hangers, right side.JPG


    This is the "BEFORE" of the Rusty right front spring and hanger.

    M38 Jeep Rusty Front Spring, right side.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2014
  17. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    [applaud]

    I spent most of the day yesterday installing the Flex-A-Lite fan unit in place of the belt driven fan in the 4 cylinder TJ. It isn't completely done, as I had to purchase a bracket for the power steering reservoir tank, because it didn't come with one. The tank is temporarily held in place with a bunch of tie-wraps.

    I replaced the front bumper with an all aluminum bumper. Much lighter. I have the gas tank skid and belly pan to do yet, but I can only accomplish so much in a day. When I'm done, I'll put the before and after shots up for view.

    Just trying to keep it light, in the spirit of the Willys' jeeps...
     
  18. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Willys only?


    Some FORDs in that group of WWll Jeeps.
     
  19. gunbunny

    gunbunny Never Trust A Bunny

    I know there are some, I just never seen one in person. The GPW's are elusive. I've seen plenty of Ford M151 MUTT's but no GPW's at the local jeep shows.
     
  20. HK_User

    HK_User A Productive Monkey is a Happy Monkey Site Supporter

    Elusive? For sure, I had one for 8 months before I could prove it!

    My guess is that it was a do-over by a Willys dealer in the early 50s. Some one had turned it into an A-1 hunting jeep with a high back seat, spring front seats and an oversize gas tank under the rear seat in the bed. The OEM gas tank and sump were removed and selector front drive Warns were added. The only really dumb thing they did was use the emergency brake hole in the dash as a way to add a grab bar! The key of course is finding the correct front cross member and the serial number on the front left frame member.

    Off course it now has a stright exhaust pipe and muffler and a numbe of other things that says WILLYS, such as the windshield frame and other odds and ends.

    OEM parts have been sourced for the fuel tank and rebuilt complete with the OEM FoMoCo stamp on the top of the tank. Even the grill had been replaced with a CJ2 type but I now have a FoMoCo grill complete with the folding headlights etc.

    A new correct exhaust system is setting in the box in the shop. Talk about a money pit!!!!
    Yes, still have it and the next on my list.

    It is a 1942 GPW built in the Ford plant in Dallas, Texas.

    It has a 2 digit number, by that I mean GPW<> 900xx. with a symbol <> between the letters and the numerals.

    You may note that the serial number experts say they started with 4 digit number! Then again the numbers were hand stamped as the frame got built so someone added an extra zero on mine!

    In case any may think an extra number was added, fear not the FORD Co. had a Star on the end of the serial number stamped to prevent this.
    Check here for good intel. Archive Willys Overland and Ford Jeep Serial Number Page
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
    kellory likes this.
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