Time to stock up on motor oil?

It looks like new motor oil is coming in with weak additive packages and missing viscosity targets more often as of late, not just the cheap shit.

When I buy my oil I get the Penzoil platinum (the one made from natural gas) when my wife's car needs an oil change its a hybrid GDI engine so it's hard on oil. On project farm they did lots of testing and that was the oil that did the best of the higher end budget oils, the only ones that did better were significantly more expensive like amsoil, royal purple, ect.

For yard machines I buy whatever 15w-40 or 20w-50 high zinc oil that's on clearance at walmart. Last time I bought like 8 jugs of castol 20w-50 "high zinc" SJ rated oil for $12 a gallon. So the small machines will be good for several years. Also use it to top off the oil in my wife's car.
You don't want to be running SM oil in a flat tappet engine, SJ was made for flat tappets, SL seemed fine, The current spec SN seems decent. That's one of the reasons I converted my suburbans 7.4L engine (now bored and stroked to an 8L) to a roller cam and roller rocker setup incase 20 years from now we can't get oil appropriate for flat tappet engines.

It would be a convenient way to force people to buy a newer vehicle, just have engines start wiping cam lobes, that way the problem of these stoopid rednecks running around in vehicles powered with old undesirable engines solves it's self.
Not news worthy just something the oil nazis over on bob is the oil guy have noticed.

So buy a bunch of oil and have it tested if you intend to use it in an older engine?
Something like my wife's car that has roller everything should be fine.
Are the days of the 10k OCI over with?

IMO 10,000 mile oil changes are dum.

 

I Run ether Shell Rotella 100% Synthetic, or Chevron Synthetic in pretty much everything, and I always add RACE Zink additive to any engine with a conventional non roller cam, so pretty much every engine I own that isn't diesel or older then 2016! I normally run a pretty long change interval, each rig is different, but I keep track of them and stay on top of the condition and change when needed!
My Durango goes around 5000 miles, the old stuff can go by millage, but I usually go on time combined with the miles, and the equipment if all on time, Diesel equipment is all on time, but also by use, the Skidder is 350 hours, while the D-4 is 200 hours, and the Big Mower is 400 hours! The Kubota goes 6 months regardless of use, and the Pacific goes 1000 hours, or 20K miles which ever hits first, and the way I'm running it, it goes on time, so every other year! LOL

 

Rotella is an SL or SM additive package now.

 

I use Amsoil in all my equipment

 

I use whatever project farm on utube says doesn't suck.

 

Shell 15-40wt in the Kubota

 

I joked about oil with bobs friends and they cry. Just sell crappy oil and get rid of many of those pesky ICE. Is this so hard to joke about? it was with bob. Maybe buying oil in 5-gallon pails is a good idea. get it while you can?

 

I like Chevron. I read that the additive package was really good and had a good level of zink.

 

It's looking like modern engine oil is probably the Pennzoil platinum ultra.
It uses the natural gas to liquid base oil.
It has a boron bound ester additive not found in most oils.
The esters cause rubber seals to swell a bit, easter oils are used in gas turbines because of their heat resistance, which doesn't really matter since it's just an addtive, mainly it's there for its cleaning ability.
Also has Mo.
For a stripped down modern oil it offers a lot.
For a flat tappet engine I would still find a retro oil pumped full of zinc, phosphorus and calcium.

 

Better stock up on/buy a lot of things, like home appliances, spare parts for generators and other small gas-powered equipment, wood burning stoves/heaters, guns and ammo, etc.. Good thing that we are preppers!

 

GF-7 coming in 2028...
With the new standard comes less addtives and lower viscosity.

 

Lake Speed Jr talks about oil storage, flat tappet cam engines being wiped out in 2004 by oil spec changes.
Conventional oils store better than synthetics.
Viscosity modifiers like to drop out of suspension in synthetics.
Then finds inside a metal can appears to be the way to store oil.

 

Stocked up in 2018 with oil and chems ,, Real oil from Euro Agip

 

Good Video, I never realized this.
Lake still lives in Kannapolis NC. I used to bump into him on occasion, super nice and down to earth guy.

 

Yep definitely using the cheaper Pennzoil platinum in the wife's car since the oil is being taken out by shearing and fuel dilution. Is usually getting changed between 6 months to 8 months, 3,600 and 4,500 miles.
Using Pennzoil ultra platinum in the truck since it has a much higher oxidization value in the truck since it only gets about 1 oil change per year.

 

That's funny , I had oil that was still in paper cans that took a special spout to dispense.
I look at an oil's viscosity, and if junk has fallen to the bottom all the better.
In the last several years I've been using synthetic blend type oils getting the best of both worlds.
Years ago I tried using a synthetic in a small engine but it ran too hot so I went back to organic based oils.
From then I was hesitant to use synthetic oil, so the blend made more sense.

 

Yeah the additives like viscosity modifiers and molybdenum and potassium hydroxide stay dissolved in dino oil better than synthetics.

 

If you read the back of a bottle of John Deere motor oil it says on the back "shelf life 5 years".
Also be aware, next year around june or July the SQ and GL7 motor oil standard comes out. It will be lower detergent higher molybdenum anti wear additive than SN for direct injected engines.

 

We can always drain motor oil out of government equipment in a pinch. There's a BUNCH in a road maintainer.

Just don't use the one that grades your road.