Truck help

OK,

Since my last post I have done the following:
Replaced both valve cover gaskets
Did an AF flush & Fill
Replaced the upper radiator hose (looked like it got nicked by the fan!!)
Replaced the Heater core
Did a "Seafoam treatment" (pulled main vac line, put in 1/3 - 1/2 can of seafoam while the truck was running, killed the engine, let it set for 15 min, then started it up. Had a nice smoke screen!)

In doing this work I was constantly checking vacuum lines (I think I have a leak some where).

I have a cold start problem though. This only happens in the morning, after the truck has sat all night. Here is my morning starting procedure.

Turn key to "on"
Pump gas peddle twice, then hold about 1/2 way down
Turn key to "start"
Engine will crank, start then die about 2 seconds later.

Turn key to "off" then back to "on"
Pump gas 2 more times
Turn key to "start"
Engine will crank, backfire, then start after pumping the gas peddle.

After this, it starts and runs OK. It's funny, sometimes the engine runs so smooth that I have to look at the rpm gauge to tell that it's running, other times, the engine is so rough it feels like I'm driving on railroad tracks.

Any thoughts?
Thanks

 

Humble opinion, Its Lean on cold start up... ( could very well beasimple choke issue).....don't go rebuild anything; but don't forget to check intake gaskets if you are already chasing vaccum leaks. if you are sucking outside air into the manifold after the carb (or injectors) it would cause youto be you to be lean.

When you get it started: spray wd40 around the intake manifold where it bolts to the block,if the idle speed increases you found a leak.
Any"idiot" lights on???

 

uh "cash for klunkers" time????

 

heck no, I've got a spare ignition control module coming in. Should an EMP hit I hope to have one of the few running vehicles around

There are no idiot lights on. Actually when starting I do see a red "engine" light, but I do no know how to check the system to see if there are any codes stored, just not throwing a light on. Everything I have found says there are 2 connectors that you jumper out, but alas, I think that is just for fuel injected models.

I'm also leaning towards a choke problem. Just need to have a chance for 2 people to be available to test (one to watch one to turn the key).

Thanks

 

If you can borrow a code reader there's supposed to be( "usually"...) a connector mounted under the dash near the steering column (look under a removable cover.)

 

I've looked and looked and looked, I can't find anything to plug into or jumper to check for codes. The only "computer" on my truck that I know if the Ignition Control Module.

But alas, until a new part arrives my truck is parked again. I swear only the expensive/hard to find parts are breaking on this thing.

Yesterday morning the Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser crapped out. I'm just hoping it didn't blow anything down into the catalytic converter. And I can tell that it's going to be a bear to replace due to the rusted bolts.

OH FUN, FUN, FUN!!!

 

oh, yeah, gots 2 haynes manuals for it (yeah, i know not the best in world).

Both say where the connectors are, what they look like, etc. But I can't find them, the wife can't find them and my FIL can't them. The book makes no mention of carb models when it refers to getting the codes.
http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
This says the same thing as the manual, but again, it's all useless unless I can find the connectors.

 

Ok, time for an update...

Replaced the Exhaust manifold heat riser, wasn't as bad as I thought. UNTIL I found out the part they make now does not fit correctly. It's installed and working, but it had to be rotated slightly so the vacuum valve did not hit the exhaust manifold.

Now, I had been having trouble starting for sometime, especially when cold. Had my FIL watch the choke when I started it tonight. The choke is going fully closed. OK, so something else to fix/adjust.

I've been having some problems recently with a small back fire sound (rather more of a "phoosh" when taking foot off the gas. The FIL wanted to check the timing. Yup, it's off, off the scale that is. The gauge stops at 30* BTDC, and it's past that. I couldn't get the distributer loose tonight, so I'm going to work on it this weekend. Hopefully I'll get the timing to 12* BTDC (factory is 10*, but I've heard better mileage at 12*).

Since the timing was so messed up, the FIL recommended replacing the plugs when the timing gets corrected.
If I can't get the timing corrected, I'll take it to the mechanic for them to fix.

Oh yeah, it's fun working on the truck in 40* weather, while it's misting/raining!!

 

I will double check the timing before doing anything. My FIL basically said the same thing. Something happened to get it that far off. It just started running funny about 2 weeks ago, that's when I parked it until it could be checked out. That's when I found the heat riser broken, so that was replaced, then we noticed once the engine was warm it ran rough, real rough.

I looked at my repair manual, and online, timing light goes off of cylinder #1 and we are pretty sure we had that.

Well hopefully, I'll get a chance this weekend to work on the timing, then next will be adjusting the carb choke. If I suspect there is more wrong than the timing just being off, well, I'll take it to a shop to have the timing chain looked at. While I could probably do it my self, I just know that 1/2 of all the bolts I will need to take off will break.

Thanks

 

Ya, the FIL said the same thing about jumping a tooth. Thing is at 90,000 mi should it be "well worn"? He also said I could have a broken tooth on one of the gears.

We'll see, if I can get the timing fixed, or at least closer to 10-12* I'll be happy. I'll monitor it and see if it gets way off again, if it does then something is amiss.

The only thing odd that has happened since I got the truck was one night while starting it the gas pedal got stuck fully down. I didn't realize it until the cranked, and no, there is no RPM limiter on this truck. And I swear I saw the tach make a complete revolution.

 

OK, Timing is set 10* BTDC (after taking off the vacuum advance it was 15*, so not too bad).
Worked on the choke some too, that may be resolved.

Now, an idling issue. When the engine is cold, and the fast idle is on, it's great. When the engine is fully up to temp, and been drivin' a while, it's great. It's the in between time. For example, I start the truck, let it warm, then drive approx 3/4 mi to my first light. While waiting for the light, it will usually have a very rough idle. After I drive to the next light, 1mi away, the idle is smoothed out some, and by the next light it's so smooth I have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running.

I can drive with the idle problem.

I wont drive until this next issue is explained and/or fixed. Under power everything is fine, but if I take my foot off the gas I can hear a noise kinda like a small back fire, but more like a psst sound. I'm going to do a compression check on the cylenders, could I have a stuck/sticky valve? The FIL thinks it may be the exhaust manifold gasket, but I would think that I here the noise all the time, not just when I take my foot off the gas.

Thanks

 

Just some wild "idears": Are the guts inside the distributor still screwed to the shell??? rotor still keyed in the right place on the shaft?

 

yup, we checked those. I watched the timing move when the dist was moved (though getting that thing to move took a little persuasion, as I doubt it's been moved since the truck was build).

 

clean and check your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.