Working with stiff knobby dual-purpose MC tires, I learned from an MC forum to put the tires between my glass storm door and front door in bright sun. Warms the rubber up and softens it. Much easier to mount.
Well, I tried ALL the suggestions and it is a NO GO.. I did however, find the leak... A four inch Nail Slightly bent, and thru one of the Knobby knobs... So i got a Plug into that hole, but can’t get the bead to set, so Off to Town, on the Mail Plane, next Wed, and will get it back the following week... Lesson learned... Get a Spare wheel & tire for the Rhino... in January...
I've heard of guys mailing unprocessed wheel weights in flat-rate boxes. I've packed large flat-rate boxes of brass bells that were almost bursting and closer to round than square. "If it fits, it ships." Heaviest was 47 pounds and all the edges of the flaps were touching. The older postal clerks would direct me to the new guy and I would try to set the box down as gently as possible, so the weight would be a surprise. "Oof! Wow, what's in there?" (None of your business.) "Car parts." Wheel weights used to be a pretty sweet deal. It's hard for me to think of "the good old days" as being only 20 years ago, but that's when the decline started for lead wheel weights. I've seen the percentage of lead in my wheel weight buckets go from near 100% to less than 20%. Most new car manufacturers are using steel, zinc, or some sort of weighted rubber stick on weights. Separating the lead from the useless weights is time consuming and dirty. The steel weights you don't want are a good way to make friends at small garages who will reuse them. Good barter goods for large brake drums and such to make a charcoal smelter or wood stove. I still use steel weights as fishing sinkers, and in a pinch they would be wicked ammo for a staff sling.
Ironton 5-Gallon Bead Seater 90 to120 PSI | Bead Seaters| Northern Tool + Equipment I am surprised that nobody has mentioned this yet. Just fill it with your compressor and blast your tire. I have been working in tire shops for most of the last 30 years, this works about 95% of the time. The only time I have seen this not work, is on very stiff new tires, that have more than an inch or two to jump. The trick to using a blaster is to sit the wheel up on something, so the bottom bead is in contact with the wheel, and use plenty of lube right before you blast it. Of course opening the valve as fast as possible is the key. Plenty of vids on you tube to show you the best techniques.
An old friend taught me to use brake fluid to liven the rubber and regain a good seal especially on old tires and rims.