Wood stove advice needed

Discussion in 'Off Grid Living' started by MountainMariner, Feb 26, 2016.

  1. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    Who is the resident wood stove expert here? I'm looking to get a super high efficiency wood stove that I can also heat a large pot of water/melt snow on. It only needs to heat 480 sq feet of living space, so no need for a large stove. This is the second issue. It will need to be transported by helicopter. Maybe I don't need a high efficiency stove, but my interest in those is due to wanting to use the least amount of wood possible.
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
  2. TheJackBull

    TheJackBull Monkey+++

    the black bear is the most efficient but it is larger than the 602. look 'em up awesome stoves.
    Living Tranquil likes this.
  3. pearlselby

    pearlselby Monkey++

    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 27, 2016
    Motomom34 likes this.
  4. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    Harbor freight has a log stove that is simple and practical .
    I used an old used antique one just like it for over twelve years or more, lost it when I moved.
    The important key to stove efficiency is the pipe and having a short horizontal section .
    It controls drafting best, and better efficiency on fuel no matter what size the stove is.
    I still use a wood stove ,one I restored with an oven . It has a very small fire box but keeps my 3 bed room house warm enough.
  5. techsar

    techsar Monkey+++

    Just a quick note on the Harbor Freight stoves...as they come, they are not well sealed and this can lead to 1) overfiring and 2) inefficient burn.
    They supposedly can be sealed with quality stove sealant, but I cannot vouch for that. However, @kckndrgn commented on this in this thread:
    Need help with quick install of wood stove | Page 2 | Survival Monkey Forums
    I replaced ours with a Federal Airtight Dutchwood and now use roughly the same amount of wood in a week as I was using in a couple of days...and maintaining a much more stable temperature. The HF stove is in storage as a backup...just in case.
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
    Motomom34 likes this.
  6. Altoidfishfins

    Altoidfishfins Monkey+++ Site Supporter+

    Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems woodstove manufacturers just don't provide a way to supply combustion air from the outside.

    I would think that's kind of critical for keeping cold air from being drawn in to the living space around every nook and crannie in order to supply the stove's combustion air requirements.
    chelloveck likes this.
  7. Tikka

    Tikka Monkey+++

    Altoidfishfins likes this.
  8. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    Deliberately ducted OA or not, there has to be a way for replacing O2 consumed by the stove. If the dwelling is tight, i.e., very little air in-leakage, the effects can't be predicted too well, but are apt to be un-good. Most of the time, air infiltration thru windows and doors is enough to keep the fire happy. (But it does waste some heat.)
  9. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    Anyone familiar with this stove? Ideal Steel Hybrid

    16 hour time lapse video of one loading
  10. Altoidfishfins

    Altoidfishfins Monkey+++ Site Supporter+

    interesting...one solution mentioned in the second article is to crack a window in the room where the woodstove is located.

    Kinda defeats the purpose, it would seem.
    Cruisin Sloth likes this.
  11. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    I need to crack my window with the Perfection oil drip stove I have now. On the lowest setting it will heat my cabin to 81 degrees with a window cracked. I frequently have to open the window all the way to get it down to a comfortable 70 degrees. This is when it's below freezing outside. If it's not below 40 degrees I don't even run the heater.
    chelloveck and BTPost like this.
  12. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    It's not rocket science , drill a hole 1" just below the stove and put a screen over it .
  13. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    Not rocket science for sure, but engineering plays a strong role. The stove mfr will tell you how many square inches of an opening is needed for OA entry. 1" ain't gonna do it for much more than a candle.
    Cruisin Sloth likes this.
  14. Tikka

    Tikka Monkey+++

    A bud has a modular and it is so tight that the kerosene heater will give them a headache by morning if they don't crack a window.
    Our insert can heat the living room up until it is tee shirt weather. The ceiling fans pull the heat into the bedrooms. In the 80s in here and mid 60s in the bedroom.

    If the Perfection makes you open a window, a wood stove might be too much??
  15. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    The Oil drip stove means I have to transport diesel fuel in the helicopter. Much rather feed a wood stove with the millions of trees that surround me. It's a logistics thing. And I don't mind chopping wood.
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2016
  16. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    Blaze King Princess Ultra purchased. I'll update this thread after the installation.
    Yard Dart likes this.
  17. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    Outside Air for combustion, is an important part of ANY WoodStove design, in the modern era.... Down at our Beach Cabin, I modified our Original Sears WoodStove, (bought by my Father 70 years ago, as a Prep, to heat the House in case the Power went out... He had a Mason, add a Flue connection to the Fireplace Flue in the Basement, for the Stove Pipe... It was never used, and still in the original Wood Crate, when I moved it to Alaska in 1991) I added a 3" Pipe, with Damper Flapper, to bottom of the FireBox, and connected that to a Dryer Vent, thru the Outside Wall, and connected the two, with a short section of Aluminum Dryer Vent Hose, and Hose Clamps... the Cabin is very tight, Air Wise, and this makes setting the Burn Rate, very easy, when used in conjunction with the Stove's Flue Damper Flapper.... Our Main Cabin WoodStove, (Supplementary Heat when the temps drop below 25F) was designed for Outside Air in the FireBox, with an Air Intake, inside the Pedestal. We drilled a 3" hole thru the Floor and screened in both inside and outside, with heavy Galvanized 1/8" Mess Screening, when installing the Stove, as a replacement for the Old One, that finally burned thru it's Firebox...
    chelloveck likes this.
  18. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous


    So it's installed and I'm very happy with it so far. The helicopter did not set it on my porch as agreed, instead it was left 100 yards away from the cabin. Downhill. All uphill and difficult to the cabins porch. Took two days to get it those 100 yards. Then absolutely no way to get the 400 pound stove from the ground up stairs or onto the porch. Thanks to the snow everything became slippery too.

    Then a moment of genius struck. I used an extension ladder as a pivot. Anchored the midpoint of the ladder to the porch. Attached a come-a-long to the top of the now vertical extension ladder. Stove was cranked up to the porch pivot point 8 feet into the air on the face of the ladder. Once there the top of the ladder was cranked down horizontal with a second come-a-long. Loosened the pivot point ropes and brought the stove and ladder completely onto the porch.

    Now I need a new chimney cap. Wind seems to be a problem with my current setup. Any suggestions?
    chelloveck and Ganado like this.
  19. Ganado

    Ganado Monkey+++

    Pretty! Extension on the stove pipe...?
  20. MountainMariner

    MountainMariner Clearly Ambiguous

    Winds got to 25 mph today and were being forced down the chimney. I need A chimney cap that defeats wind.
    Ganado likes this.
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