You're buildings it wrong. Nails and screws

Discussion in 'Back to Basics' started by oil pan 4, Nov 13, 2021.


  1. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    I always knew galvanized and coated nails were a bit more difficult to pull out over bare steel but I never thought to quantify the results. I'll never use a bare steel nail again. Well I usually always use deck screws and if I use nails they are galvanized or ribbed stainless.


     
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  2. johnbb

    johnbb Monkey+++

    Speaking of nails when I was kid my dad would have me straighten bent nails with a hammer. I find myself doing that now especially with SS nails the cost has sky rocketed.
     
  3. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    We had a bunch of FlatLanders come up and build a Fishing Lodge, right on the Inlet..(Salt Water) These Yahoos were used to building in the Utah Valley, where they build. with “ Sinkers”… (Those Green Coated Nails) Needless to say it is now ten years later, and the siding on the buildings is starting to fall off, because the Salt Air has corroded off the Nail Heads… Should have used Galvanized, They “Lived and Learned”….
     
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  4. madmax

    madmax Far right. Bipolar. Veteran. Don't push me.

    Screws.
     
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  5. johnbb

    johnbb Monkey+++

    I have found that even galvanized over time rust, it may cost more but I have been using SS nails and screws see how that works out
     
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  6. Thunder5Ranch

    Thunder5Ranch Monkey+++

    My old South Barn was built in 1962 with corrugated tin and and galvanized barn screws to hold it on. 59 years later the tin is corroded and falling off and the same barn screws are being used to put the new tin on. To be fair I know nothing about SS Screws and Nails in comparison to Galvanized in price I probably never will. I am curious though how SS VS Galvanized compare in Real World Use over long periods of time.
     
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  7. madmax

    madmax Far right. Bipolar. Veteran. Don't push me.

    I learned how to build primitive furniture in the southern Appalachians. Green seats. Dry legs. The seats shrank and tightened around the legs. Old school baby.
     
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  8. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    Now days the SS nails probably have more carbon in them to have more strength other wise the SS might tend to be too soft to drive in.
    When I was younger the standard procedure in breaking down a building was to remove the nails at the same time and not destroy the materials as they had value to us. Removing the nails as carefully as possible so it did not require a lot of straitening.
    I often thought it might be practical to make a jig for straitening nails, but not many people use nails any more seeing screws are stronger on small projects.
    I love using an air nailer though. it makes the job go quicker and your not fighting knots or hard woods and less splitting. Nail guns are not as big as they use to be and use less air than their predecessor.
     
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  9. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    When I was a young man in college, and a Working Powderman, on weekends, one of my favorite jobs was bringing down Old Homestead Houses out in the Potato & Sugar Beet Fields around S.E. Idaho.. After WWII, most of the Homestead Farmers had moved into the small Towns and off the Farm, leaving many of the Two Story houses, sitting on a Concrete basement, vacant.. The 1”x10” Siding was very valuable and worh my time and effort to save, during the demolition.., I would cover all the openings, with Visquene and lathe, and calculate the volume of the interior, then vent Propane into the structure, until I got the appropriate Fuel/Air mixture, and using the Electrical Blasting Caps, one for each floor, and placed at the center of space.. Then setting them off using the battery in my ‘55 Dodge PowerWagon Panel Truck, and a 200’ chunk of Zip Cord..The detonation would cause the siding to pull away from the studs, about half the length of the nails.. Then the Demo Crew would just push the siding back against the studs, and use a simple Nail-Puller, to pop the nails the rest of the way out without damaging the siding surfaces…
    Yes, it took a couple of Practice disasters to get the mixture right, but once I got that math figured out, it was just a routine process… The first job turned the house into “Tooth Picks”.. (Opps) The second job, didn’t move the siding enough to get the Nail-Pullers under the Nail Heads.. The second try on that job was better, but one more adjustment on the mixture proved the process… Word spread about my work, and I got a bunch of weekend work, and basically worked my way out of a job, in a couple of years…. Ah, The Good Old Days…
     
  10. madmax

    madmax Far right. Bipolar. Veteran. Don't push me.

    I'm too old for going back to the service. But I'd like to blow some shit up. Can I apprentice for you? lol
     
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  11. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    I bought a case of stainless ring shank nails on plastic strip for my nail gun back around 2010 to repair framing on my roof. Probably used 15% of them on that job. I had to order them, by the case, I couldn't just buy small box of a few hundred.
     
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  12. johnbb

    johnbb Monkey+++

    I have cypress siding on my house galvanized nails were used 25 years ago now showing rusted nail heads. All the balusters on the front and rear porch where nailed with galvanized finishing nails and rusted away have since replace and nailed with SS finishing nails will see how they hold up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2021
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  13. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    I let my last State License lapse decades ago, before 9/11 and all the new FEDERAL Regulations came down the pike… I still get a call, on occasion, but since my mobility issues of the last two years, I just pass those on to the next Generation of Powdermen.. I liked the planning and math that went into designing a specific job, or shot, a lot more than the Grunt Work of Drilling and Mucking a Load, all though seeing a shot come off as planned, is fulfilling, for sure.. AlaskaChick always liked to watch a shot go off, when I was still working… She can tell stories, about unintended consequences, that resulted in a few of those jobs…
     
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  14. Gator 45/70

    Gator 45/70 Monkey+++

    Built my shed and stand using deck screws, They wont be going anywhere soon !
     
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  15. TnAndy

    TnAndy Senior Member Founding Member

    I find myself using deck screws more and more. Buy them in the 30lb plastic tubs. Bought a cordless Porter Cable impact driver that zips them right in.

    Replaced a bunch of wood siding on my shop last summer that was installed mid-90's with galvanized nails. Nails still in good shape, but a LOT of the had backed out of the siding where it flexed, some as much as an inch. Peeled the old siding off with forks on the tractor (most of the bad was on one side), and replaced the diagonal wood 1x sheathing with plywood/30lb felt.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]



    Went back with new tapered lap poplar siding, 3" deck screws and a couple coats of oil based paint.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2021
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  16. Gator 45/70

    Gator 45/70 Monkey+++

    Right on, That turned out really well !!!
     
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  17. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    I just brute force them in with a regular drill. Some times a 120v plug in but usually a battery powered one.
     
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  18. TnAndy

    TnAndy Senior Member Founding Member

    Did that too for a long time, then discovered the impact driver watching a neighbor use his.....whole lot easier.
     
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  19. SB21

    SB21 Monkey+++

    I use those battery impact drivers almost daily. I've used them driving 12 and 14 inch timberlock screws ,, with ease . Well worth every penny.
    A guy was selling off a bunch of tools a few weeks ago , I bought a good bit of them ,, but I bought a Milwaukee drill , 2 batteries and charger for 50 bucks ,, ill be buying the impact driver to match this . I think Milwaukee are some of the strongest in the industry. But lowes has that Flex brand out ,, they're supposed to be pretty powerful,, but they're expensive as well.
     
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  20. kckndrgn

    kckndrgn Monkey+++ Moderator Emeritus Founding Member

    I use the impact driver quite a bit, find it much better at driving in screws than a drill. I've been using the Ryobi brand for years and I have not had any problems with them. They are 18v and I know some of the newer tools are 20v or higher, but everything I have needed done has been done with these.
    I have the 5" skill saw, reciprocating saw, oscillating saw, blower, sander, 2 drills, impact driver, lights, radio and more. Don't think I would switch brands at the moment.
    Worked with some PorterCable tools this past weekend, batteries died as soon as you started using the tool, and the owner said that they were brand new.
     
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