Buying a Used Wood Burning Stove Tips

Discussion in 'General Survival and Preparedness' started by <exile>, Nov 17, 2007.

  1. <exile>

    <exile> Padawan Learner

    We're looking at buying a wood burning stove and noticed there are quite a few on the market but are new to wood burning so thought we could work through a few examples and see what you pros notice might be wrong. We would like to use it primarily for heating (1200 sq. ft.) and have for emergency/backup cooking. We really like the Jotul and have considered buying a new one but didn't want to rule out used if they are worth it.

    A couple of questions:
    - If you buy a catalytic converter model can you just remove the converter?
    - Is it necessary to buy the chimney piping from the manufacturer or are there better (cheaper) options?

  2. BigO01

    BigO01 Monkey+++ Founding Member

    I can't be of any help with your questions but for saving a bit of money on a used stove .

    A friend who lives in Utah and works part time at Cabelas tells me their return policy is so lax that he has had to restock them despite the fact they have been full of soot .

    I don't know if you can use one in the house that was designed for one of those big cabin tents hunters use but he said apparently it is quite comman for people to buy expensive things there and use them for a week or two hunting and then return them for a full refund . Cabelas marks them down considerably and puts them in the "Bargain Cave" .

    Good luck
  3. ozarkgoatman

    ozarkgoatman Resident goat herder

  4. monkeyman

    monkeyman Monkey+++ Moderator Emeritus Founding Member

    The first one is what we use to heat with but used and no delivery and so on his price is a bit high it seems since for about $10 more (in our area at least) they have it new here The stove works pretty well BUT a larger one would be easier to cook on and also would give you more room to line it with fire brick so that it would heat up and continue to radiate heat after the fire burned out in the night. Like I say though it DOSE heat our entire house (3 bedroom trailer) in the coldest MO winters.

    On the second one, while they might be ok, I dont like this type because the logs go across the door opening, so if it fails to latch it would be easier for a flameing log to roll out and create problems and again, to what I have seen it seems overpriced especialy in that you are saveing nothing over new.

    The third one looks like it would be easier to cook on and large enouph for lineing with fire brick to help it continue to heat after the wood is burned and be warm in the morning as well as already haveing a larger fire box and bottom emptying ash tray which can be nice and more thermal mass. From what I recall it also wouldnt seem to be to bad on price as long as it is in ecent shape.

    As far as the catalytic converters I dont know much about them but should be no problem to remove it.

    On the stove pipe, we can get it at local hardware and home improvement stores fairly cheap and we have also used regular vent pipeing. A couple of things you can do with the stove pipe to help improve the efficentcy of the stove a LOT is to add a second damper in the stove pipe a couple feet above the one at the stove so you can better controle the air flow through the chimney and also to have the chimney turn inside the room and go horizontal for several feet before going out. The heat will continue to rise through the side of the stove pipe while the smoke goes on out through the pipe and uotside so less of the heat is wasted.
  5. gillman7

    gillman7 Monkey+++

    Be careful with the vent pipe, it gets very hot!!! Make sure that you are using triple wall pipe for the area that is in the ceiling and through the roof. Catalytic converters are not bad, necessarily, the trick is learning how to build a hot enough fire to keep creosote to a minimum, and not run yourself out of the house.
  6. Tracy

    Tracy Insatiably Curious Moderator Founding Member

    I love our Jotul!

    I accidentally removed part of our converter during a stove-cleaning (shop vac - oops) and the stove still worked and heated just fine. My Mr. didn't even notice :D. So, I'd say yes, you can remove the converter, based on my experience, though I'm not sure why you would.

    You can get chimney pipe at any dealer. You don't have to go through a manufacturer. The dealers are great to talk to and learn from, as well. They'll help you decide exactly what you need and help you get a safe system set up for your house (make sure to talk to them before you're going to actually buy the pipe, so they're not motivated by a $ale, but only by your well-being).
  7. ColtCarbine

    ColtCarbine Monkey+++ Founding Member

    Cast iron stoves like a Jotul with firebricks will retain heat longer than a mild steel one but they do take a little longer to heat up. If you're going to use a free-standing stove don't forget to put up some sort of firewall behind the stove, it can be as easy as using Z-Brick mortared onto a sheet of plywood. However, you might want to check with the fire and building codes in your area, in case you decide to sell the house eventually.
  8. ColtCarbine

    ColtCarbine Monkey+++ Founding Member

    Removing the converter does effect how the stove draws air, just had to use the dampers to compensate, thought I didn't notice [lolol]
  9. monkeyman

    monkeyman Monkey+++ Moderator Emeritus Founding Member

    How mush if any of a firewall you will need will depend (for safety not codes) on how close the stove is to the wall. Ours sets almost 4' from the wall so we dont have anything up on he wall but you will want something on the floor. It can be as simple as a half sheet or so of plywood but sooner or later you will almost certainly have a flameing log or at LEAST some hot coals fall out of mos types of stoves (generaly when you are feeding them or messing with it unless its set up poorly) and this will allow you to pick it up with fire tonges or a shovel without burning the floor.
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