EMP Proof BOV's

Discussion in 'General Survival and Preparedness' started by OzarkSaints, Sep 21, 2009.

  1. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    Hey fellas

    Well, we moved out to our land and it has been awesome, but it put us in a situation where we were just making ends meet; so I just took a job in the city making real good pay, so we will have to bug out if things happen in the next coupla years...so we need to get a BOV set up and want to cover all bases.

    Personally, we find EMP to be on the very bottom of our list of potential problems with bugging out, but since we'll have funds again, we figure we should cover all bases.

    So what all should we be looking at for EMP proof/proofing a BOV? Keep in mind that I am 6'6" and we have a kid and two Saint Bernards, so we will need room.

    What about the older diesels? The old Chevy 6.2's and the Ford 6.9's and non turbo 7.3's?

    If diesels are a no go, then what all would we do to retrofit a gasser? What years would be the cut off line for them being EMP proof already?

    Thank you very much for any help y'all could give on this subject!
  2. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    The non EFI types are best, but even those can be proofed by surrounding the computer parts. Essentially, you do not want to leave any (pertinent) sensitive electronics exposed, or if you cannot proof them, at least have spares in a faraday cage for easy replacement.

    It is also important to note that this type of preparation is not solely for an EMP from an airburst or ground detonated nuclear device. The sun's increase in solar activity will be on the rise for the next few years, and with all kinds of astral interference, it would be wise to plan for this scenario. Our sun can transmit many times the EMP pulse that any man made device ever could.
  3. overbore

    overbore Monkey++

    WE have a 95 Dodge/Cummins ( no electronic nuttin ) and and MB 81 diesel plus the fuel. They are not perfect just reliable as a 300# anvil. A starting point--.
    Laus Deo
  4. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    Thanks fellas!

    Hey OB..I started checkin out the 12V Cummins ya got...so you got a 2nd Gen with the fancier fuel pump then right? so you are saying the 2nd Gen is still ALL mechanical, and no electronics?

    Just want to make sure, cause they seem to be much more abundant than the 1st Gen, so if they are just as EMP proof, that'd be even better!

    Any mods that ya did to your 2nd Gen Cummins at all?
  5. overbore

    overbore Monkey++

    Added Buck Stop steel front bumper, Warn Winch ( about 225#), larger tires, ( better mileage) , has 5 speed manual trannie ( auto is nfg), inverter under the drivers seat for 110V , Bright Lights switch/ box for better high beams ( Geno's Garage), larger batteries, have generator in bed, carry extra fuel---you get the idea--. Just keep the fuel tank mostly full to avoid condensation from high humidity and temp changes. Oh yes, it is a 4x4 which give you stump pullin power in low range--
    Laus Deo

    ps: go here for detailed data on all Dodge diesel "picumup" trucks http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/profile.php?do=editprofile
  6. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    Thanks bud!
  7. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    Also, I am sure it is a silly question...but am I correct in assuming that the military duece and a halfs are the golden ticket for complete bug out ability and 100 percent EMP proof?

    I have a chance to pick one up next week and we are in the middle of a move, so not a whole lot of time to research much right now..hell, my only access online for the last 2 weeks is my cellphone and mostly so while driving cross country....so any knowledge of the duece and a halfs would be greatly appreciated as well...thanks fellas!!!
  8. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    Well, I have driven them (the automatic ones), and the 5 tons, including the new LMTV's and (MMTV's-HMTV's). The old deuces are good, but be certain that the AWD functions or it will get stuck very easily. It is EMP proofed as far as I know. Very basic load carriers with little frills.
  9. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    Thanks for the heads up on the AWD!
  10. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    No prob. On the models I drove (older ones), the switch for AWD is actually a lever near the steering column. It kind of lays flat and horizontal, and pulls (flips) out to the opposite side. Kinda like a quik removable AK scope mount.
  11. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    hey fellas, so we ran out of time during the move due to mechanical problems on one of the trucks, so we need to buy another truck before getting that 6x6.....been looking around and have found some of the older Cummins 12V, but have found considerably more of the older pre-Powerstroke non-turbo Ford 7.3L's, I have drove on of 'em before and remember it getting good fuel efficiency and have good power (not as good on either account as the Cummins, but still well within the acceptable range if my recollection serves).

    So the question then would be do any of y'all no if those older 7.3L engines are also 100% mechanical and electronics free?

    thanks once again for y'alls help!
  12. SHavis

    SHavis dedicated fire poker

    Keep in mind, all engines are going to have electric start and electric fuel shutoff. I have no idea how the coils in those devices would come out after an EMP/CME. In theory, any copper wire (solenoid coil) would induce voltage, but if there is no load(i.e. a complete circuit) that should just be poltential voltage and no damage would occure.

    If the diesel engines have a mechanical lift pump & injection pump, just add air and make compression and you are rollin'! On the older Cummins, and maybe others, (don't know what years), the fuel shutoff is a mechanical lever actuated by a fuel shutoff solenoid. This can be made mechanical with an pull lever like an old machanical choke cable.

    $0.02 from a noob....
  13. OzarkSaints

    OzarkSaints Monkey++

    ahhh, that would make sense.....trying to narrow down as to what to buy that is the most criteria friendly, and then I will need to start diggin deep into all of that type of little stuff that might make a difference on being truly EMP proof or not.....thanks, and welcome aboard.
  14. Monty

    Monty Monkey+++

    If I had to pick


    Dodge w/cummings pre electric

    Ford IDI

    GM 6.2
    Ganado likes this.
  15. pcc

    pcc Monkey+

    I've got a 2001 duramax. Anyone know what parts I'd need to protect or keep spares of to keep it going, just in case??

    Since my backup location is only 6 miles from my house, I've been planning to use atvs & dirtbikes as a primary means of transport in case I absolutely have to go anywhere.

    They are all 2007 or later models (polaris atv's & a honda crf250f dirtbike) What would I need to get them going again??
  16. SLugomist

    SLugomist Monkey++

    Is there a generic list of electronics parts for emp proofing trucks anywhere? like solenoid, or battery, this cable, etc That'd be a big help
  17. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    No. Anything with a circuit board or directly connected to that circuit board unless grounded and shielded needs to be "EMP proofed" -and a lot of cars don't even have the same parts.
  18. jim2

    jim2 Monkey+++

    EMP doesn't effect batteries. At least that's what the army told me.
  19. SLugomist

    SLugomist Monkey++

    Yes I realize that about the battery, I mean, like a 200X-200X ford diesels, or cummins, or whatever set up. You need to have an spare ignition board, so and so board, other chips etc, this solenoid etc., a list of the parts that one would need to replace to get running after EMP. So you could then put them in a farrady cage and store them. any way. guess I'll have to do the research myself and learn the computer tech of my truck, guess it's for the best as I would have to replace them myself in the situation.
  20. Monty

    Monty Monkey+++

    My 2004.5 HO cummings will be setting, and I'll be driving something else. I have a thing for military vehicals so I'd grab one and use it.

    No igintion board since diesels are self igniting from compression but I beleive you'd need the computer and possiably the starter. My dodge has an electric lift pump used to supply the injection pump, I may need to keep one of those also.
    I'm not sure if Ford's use one or not, but it would be something to look into.

    The older mechanical injected diesels are the way to go, there's alot less to worry about. If you can turn it over it will start.

    Good luck
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