Generator Shielding

Discussion in 'General Survival and Preparedness' started by T. Riley, May 15, 2017.


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  1. T. Riley

    T. Riley Monkey+++ Site Supporter++

    I have a 10kw Briggs and Stratton Generator, but this question would apply to most generators I assume. What parts should I backup and shield to give this equipment a realistic chance of operating post EMP/CME. I know that a lot depends on the strength and proximity of the events but I am just asking what electronics would be at risk. I am sure the control board would be the first to go and I have purchased a standby. But what about solenoid's, fuses, breakers, starters and relays? Will the transfer switch isolate the generator if it is open.
     
  2. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    How new is it, and how many electronic controls does it have other than what's on the board? ANY electronics are at some risk, even if the ignition is condenser and points (which should also be backed up along with spark plugs.)
    No, if you mean will it "safe off" the generator end against a strike. Moreover, the wire from the xfer switch to the generator end will be a superior antenna.
     
  3. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart Snow Monkey Moderator

    The AVR, (Automatic Voltage Regulator) if it has one, and any Electronics in the Engine Control System.
     
  4. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    The AVR at least.
    Detach all cords and install short circuiting jumpers so the coils can't building a charge.
    Electromechanical things like standard thermal and magnetic circuit breakers are not going to be effected.
     
  5. Out in the woods

    Out in the woods off-grid in-the-forest beekeeper

    Look close at the isolation switch. When it is 'off' [open] and the grid takes a hit, you have to expect big surges on it. Can those surge voltages reach the generator?

    I have surge protectors [lightning arrestors] on my photo voltaic power array. Both outside and inside.
     
  6. Cruisin Sloth

    Cruisin Sloth Special & Slow

    Wrap it in tin foil !! & ground it !!
    Dang Funny post.
    Ya really think that a nuke will stop genset ? Try Monsanto & chemtrails of what they are laying !!!

    Get to YOUR USA .GOV & ask why "They " are allowed to spray the world, while if you discharge your oil / battery etc the wrong way YOUR IN SHITE
     
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  7. T. Riley

    T. Riley Monkey+++ Site Supporter++

  8. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    IMO , If the gen is for emergencies, take the box it came in and make a steel box to cover it . store no fuel in it ,oil is ok.
    the box it came in will act as an insulator from the steel box (faraday ) disguise it as dog house and anchor it to the ground.
    Before you put it in storage run it and be sure that your house is ready for it and that it is in good shape.
    I've done warrantee work in the past and manufacturing some times makes a slip and forgets something ,that or shipping did damage handling it.
    Any way run it loaded, and see to it the load IS what it is rated for.
    Deal with warrantee issues now while it's new , because 3-4-5-10-years down the line they won't know or care who you are.
    After a good 10 hours, change the oil, and filter if it has one . being a Briggs ,I bet not.
    In the midst of the oil change while it's empty rinse out the base of the engine, with solvent or gas for small particles that occur while breaking in.
    Mostly rings and cylinder wall wear.(mating)
    This initial service has extended the life of many a motor in my care.
    In the marine industry we spray fogging oil in the intake while it's running and then immediately shut it down. This puts a layer of oil on the air fuel related internal parts of the engine
    If you live in a relatively humid atmosphere spray some lubricant on the throttle linkage and governor (external moving parts)
    Tape over the openings of the generator. keeping the spiders and other critters out. plastic over the engine air cleaner. make notes to remind you to remove these things attached to the engine where you can't ignore it.
    If you plan to run extension cords get the absolute heaviest gage wire you can find and make them as short a run as possible.
    14 is light and 10 is heavy .
    If you plant to use house wiring get a switch designed for it, No guess work here ,too much liability at stake , and you don't want to accidentally try to power up the neighborhood or have city power fry your own unit.
    If your thinking of switching things out manually, your putting a lot at risk if some one else is doing it, in stead of you, for some reason.
    Often people unfamiliar with a certain process ,though they mean well ,tend to jump ahead of the process ,ignorant of the ramifications.
    Annually one should review the process just to have their ducks in a row.
    Good luck .
     
    T. Riley likes this.
  9. T. Riley

    T. Riley Monkey+++ Site Supporter++

    This is a 300 pound unit bolted to a concrete slab net to my house. Shielding the entire unit is not an option as I use it for standby power is an area with uncertain electrical service during storms. It is powered by an 18hp, 570cc Vanguard B&S electric start engine. There is no manual start option. This is an electric parts list from the wiring schematics.
    1) Control Panel (Control Module Assembly) I have a backup
    2) Breaker, Circuit, 50A
    3) Solenoid, Gas Fuel
    4) Contactor, Starter
    5) Regulator, Fuel
    6) Fuel Solenoid (same as 3 above?)
    7) Fuel Select Solenoid
    8) Switch, Low Oil Pressure
    9) Over Temperature Switch
    10) Starter Contactor (Solenoid?)
    11) Starter Motor
    I guess my question is which parts should I backup in a Faraday Cage or will the coils in then alternator be fried so there is no point.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2017
  10. oil pan 4

    oil pan 4 Monkey+++

    The selector solenoid is likely for dual fuel units that use gasoline and natural gas or LPG. They can't run both fuels at the same time. Only one or the other.
     
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  11. Cruisin Sloth

    Cruisin Sloth Special & Slow

    Voltage regulator is one for the 12V electrics & the one to control the AC , , what you listed WILL NOT be effected .
    Micro circuits , look inside a PC motherboard & if you see that on the gen set then thats the weak point . Now last I viewed , Mr Putin & Mr Hang are working with the "Don" to ease the Dark-State BS .
    I would NOT have a screaming 3600 rpm Briggs asking folks to come over !!
    I have been there with DUH neighbours .. You got lights ?? how the power is out .10 years ago I went Black with local outages .
    Trade out & into an inverter style 5000 or 6500 watt honda & build a ^^^ Dog house , Get a duel fuel unit petrol or LPG .
    Dog house is to hide & Faraday it .

    Sloth
     
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  12. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart Snow Monkey Moderator

    Doghouse is useless as a Faraday Cage, if it has wires that penitrate the Cage....
     
  13. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    A steel shed would work just fine. "Science facts faraday cage"
    The screws that hold the shed together would provide the electrical connection through out the shed , it does not need to be air tight.
     
  14. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart Snow Monkey Moderator

    If it isn't Air Tight, the seams will leak Microwaves like a sieve, more than likely.... ANY Electrical Connection that breaches the CAGE, itself, negates the Faraday Cage Principal, itself
     
  15. T. Riley

    T. Riley Monkey+++ Site Supporter++

    I only want to place spares of the parts that could be damaged in a traditional faraday cage. I have the main control circuit board already and just need to understand which other components are likely to be damaged so I can get spares of them as well. If the entire alternator or motor will not survive without shielding then it's pointless.
     
  16. ghrit

    ghrit Bad company Administrator Founding Member

    True, it need not be air tight. It DOES need to be rf tight, and you can do that with a screen if the mesh is small enough and there are no gaps, top, bottom, or sides. You can't afford screen cloth with that fine a mesh (talking fractions of a micron here) so you might as well make it out of sheet metal to start and weld the seams closed. Bear in mind that an EMP is broad band white electrical "noise" so to say, with very long wave and very short wave frequency components. For a proper shield, all have to be considered.
    @T. Riley
    Taken to extremes, nothing with electronic components will survive a hit; partly because if you are close enough to ground zero, it won't be the rf that does the damage. As a practical matter, bigger is less apt to be a problem than smaller. "Bigger" is relative, of course but points to the generator end being a survivor. Once you have the electronic components backed up with the mfr's recommended spares, you should be good to go. FWIW, I have seen military buildings built like Faraday cages as well as blast proofed against near hits, but dot mil can be paranoid in some cases.
     
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  17. Cruisin Sloth

    Cruisin Sloth Special & Slow

    You would not hard wire the dog house , Use a heavy extension cord system & make sure the doghouse is well vented with flaps that let cooling air in & heated exhaust out , But is still quite .. It's the noise & bright light that the will bring in lookers .
    I KNOW
    I live in that "Very Rural" area that city folks move to , I love scaring them with mountain lion & bear / wolf story's ..
     
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    Generator FAQ 2001

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