How long can you store kerosene?

If for some reason it is necessary, use the same stuff as for diesel. FWIW, I've used kero that was several years old with no problems whatsoever. Kero is a less well refined form of fuel oil than diesel, has more paraffin (wax), but less than heating oil. I don't think there are any additives that can cause problems, but evaporation will make the proportion of paraffin greater.

 

Off the top of my head, treated diesel is good for out to about 12 years and I had thought Kero was good for about 9 or 10. I'm assuming this is treated and I used to treat my 20 gallons of kerosene with the same stuff I was treating my diesel, PRI D. In retrospect, I'm not sure an additive is a good thing for kerosene that will be used indoors.

Be interesting to see some replies here by some more knowledgeable folks.

edit: Just found this listed as a kerosene treatment for indoor heater use: http://www.msiwix.com/prid_kerosene_additive.htm

 

Correct.

I have to say, I really don't have any experience with stuff like Pri-d or any of the other products, never felt the need. Have to say also, they probably don't hurt. The paraffin won't be a problem as long as temps are moderate, the problems arise when it gets cold, it'll plug up the tubing. I have also to add that I've gone over winters without treating the gas in my bikes, so I'm skeptical of any sales pitches for additives. I may eat those words some day, but it hasn't happened yet.

Diesel is a better choice if temps go below, say freezing, and arctic diesel (winter fuel at the truck stops) is even better in that regard. Both of those are refined to a greater degree, meaning the paraffin content is a lot lower. If you can find it, JP-8 is the stuff to have (any airport that supplies military jets ---.) It's even better in the cold. Not a lot of difference between JP-8 and kero except for the higher level of treatment at the refinery, and it lasts foreever, so they say.

Unless the burner is designed for it, DO NOT use kero or fuel oil indoors.

Like everything else, rotate your stocks.

 

That would be former drips under pressure?

 

How much firewood do you have cut and stacked for winter?

 

I would love nothing more than to be at your place on Christmas. Maybe next year we can plan something.

 

Getting a group of monkeys together is tougher than herding cats. I'd be more apt to plan something for my core unit.

 

White gas is simply gasoline without the fuel additives. It will keep forever in a sealed container, there's nothing to degrade except by evaporation. I don't believe it will ever gunk up with varnish either, so all you need to do is close the container tight and put it away. If there is a deposit, alcohol should clear it out pretty quickly.

Now, I'll dig really hard into memory (rather than look it up) and say that white gas is first cut after driving off gaseous fractions from the feedstock in the refinery distillation column. As the feedstock becomes depleted of gasses and gasoline, the heavier products get taken out, including diesel and fuel oils of various grades. What's left at the bottom is essentially tar. (Bunker C heavy oil is not quite tar, but almost. It doesn't move at room temps, has to be heated to pump.) After distillation, all these different grades of liquid petroleum go thru more steps, including blending and addition of modifiers that get the properties they want for sale. Somewhat oversimplified, but you get the idea.

Anyway, unless you have a burner that will handle white gas and/or fuel oil of any grade, you can't substitute one for the other. I believe that Coleman fuel is white gas, just packaged for convenience (and priced accordingly. Not to mention that I've not seen white gas for sale anywhere in the last 40 years.)

BTW, I regenerated some Coleman cork seals with a healthy application of 3in1 and letting them sit a day or two.