Lubrication of steel to prevent RUST on guns and such

Discussion in 'General Survival and Preparedness' started by john316, Oct 9, 2016.

  1. john316

    john316 Monkey+++

    I have lived in florida for many years
    I use many small hand tools…...taps...dies….drill
    some tools you can go to aluminum or SS
    aluminum pipe wrenches are great as well as light
    aluminum framing square…..speed square
    “C” clamps……….get the plated ones
    aluminum drill bits just did not hold up
    aluminum taps……………..same

    so.we have tons of BARE steel drill bits,taps,dies.,screw driver tips,screws,bolts
    most of my stuff I keep on a truck
    I worked in the rain a lot
    everything gets wet………...the whole state is wet……...even if it is not raining
    I tried putting oil on every thing……...but the oil dryed up
    I tried everything under the sun…………………
    time passes

    I have been laying out since august 2013

    had not been in my truck much…… work to speak of

    anyway I am feeling a lot better and was looking around getting ready for matthew october,2016
    3 or 4 flashlights………….the batteries leaked….aluminum rust...but dead
    should store flashlights without batteries in side!!!!!!!!!
    many screw driver tips and nut driver tips were rusted up very bad had not been sprayed

    BUT ……...most of my bare steel I had sprayed with a special spray
    2 tap and die sets still had a coating on them..looked great new
    many drawers of bare steel screws had been sprayed.and look new
    many other screws were rusted perty bad
    3 large drawers of drill bits were sprayed..looked greatest
    6 or 7 boxes of drill bits were sprayed..looked new

    I have been using this special spray for 10 years or so.
    All this stuff was sprayed before august 2013
    This finest kind rust preventer is NAPA house brand Chain & Cable Lube # Mac’s 1370
    get it at NAPA auto parts house

    Do not store your blade or gun in its leather sheath. Leather collects moisture and provides the perfect condition for rust.

    Biggest and best test look this up………….copy it………… it

    Ron's outdoor blog.

    Ron Kulas 042814

    Review/comparison of gun care products | Ron's outdoor blog.

    Review/comparison of 46 gun care products

    Post by Ron Kulas on april 28,2014
    “We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I’m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began searching for rust inhibitors and lubrication solutions to make the maintenance of my gear as effective and efficient as possible but I understand that neglect is the primary cause of corrosion and wear and we must be diligent but having a corrosion inhibitor and lubricants aiding us in meeting those goals is helpful.

    The problem is there are so many products on the market all making claims of how well they perform. Who do you trust? What is one to believe? Online searches turned up all manner of comparisons, reviews and evaluations of a couple of products here and a few more there but no large sampling of a really long list of products all compared at the same time. So that’s what I set out to do to determine for myself which product I want to use as a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Along the way I will also look at water displacement (a common claim) as well as reactions with non-metal components. The attributes I set out to evaluate are:

    Water displacer:

    Many of the products I purchased for this evaluation make claims in regards to being a water displacer or that they have water displacing properties. Its an interesting claim but it got me to wondering why I should care?? I thinks its great if a product displaces water does it adds to a products worth or usefulness?? We all know that moisture is everywhere from fog to rain to snow to humid environments to warm to cold condensation as well as sweat and dew. so perhaps the water displacement claims are meant to drive us to their products with promises of improved protection so I plan to investigate that claim.


    Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.


    How well does the product lubricate? And in what state, meaning does it reduce friction better in its wet form or in a dry form after its wiped away/allowed to dry? If it offers the most friction reduction in a wet form but that wet form is a magnet for dust, dirt and carbon, then its counterproductive because that wet lube becomes a gritty sludge. If it can be applied, wiped dry and still reduce friction (while fighting rust) that would be preferred. I will investigate lubrication.


    How safe is it for plastics, rubber and gun finishes and coatings?

    That a fair question since these products are expected to be applied to guns, bows, knives, fishing gear, etc that are composed of a variety of non-metallic materials and finishes/coatings. A product that displaces water and inhibits rust is great but if it melts your plastic and rubber and destroys the finish on your gun, its destined for the trash can. I plan to investigate compatibility as well.

    Corrosion inhibition:

    That’s the primary reason for this evaluation. I plan to investigate these products compared to one another for their ability to delay the formation of corrosion.

    The goal here is to find a product that does the best job at inhibiting corrosion, reducing friction, does not harm plastic, rubber or finishes, displaces waters and does not force me to wear a gas mask to apply. A product that can do all of the above may not exist but I’m willing to find out.

    The next question was "Which products?" Until now, my stable of gun/bow/tool care products was pretty small. Like most sportsmen I had my "go-to" products because that is what my local retailer carried. I hadn't thought much beyond availability and then fell into a comfort zone with those products. I took to the web and did a search as well as asking for suggestions on a couple of web forums and learned many of these products have passionate followers even if I had never heard of them. Was I missing out on a superior product????

    The next step in the process was to take out a 2nd mortgage and buy up as many products as I could get my hands on and then wait for the brown truck to become a daily fixture in my driveway. The products I will be evaluating (in no particular order) are………….”

    also on

    Results of gun care product evaluation - THR

    May 5, 2014, 06:18 PM


    Results of gun care product evaluation

    also on

    Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared : Day At The Range

    Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared

    By: DIY_guy

    Other nice test

    Anti-Corrosion Properties of Patch Lubes and Lubricants

    many good tests here

    “What muzzle-loading lubricants/lubes have
    good anti-corrosion properties?

    This experiment has nothing to say about the shooting properties of the lubes that were tested; the tests were performed only to determine how good the products are at preventing corrosion - ie - rust in a muzzleloader.

    The Test Material:
    The ideal test system would use a barrel, but since I didn't have a spare one, I used test pieces made from two types of steel, mild steel forged from common nails and hard, polished spring-steel strips. The nails were heated to bright orange, hand-hammered to about 1/32" thickness and finished by wet surface grinding on a soft alumina wheel, which gives a slight "nubbly" surface which has a lot of crannies which helps to hold residue. The hard steel was cut from thick, flat spring stock and hardened, annealed and polished to an "armoury-bright" surface.

    The Test:
    The pieces were first thoroughly cleaned and degreased. Then, a thin layer of 4F Goex was placed on a flat surface,the test pieces were placed on the powder, and then the top surface was also covered with about 1/16" of powder. After ignition, there was a uniform layer of powder residue on both sides of the test strips. The strips were then gentlywashed by holding each one under a thin trickle of cold water and blotting dry on a soft tissue. The object was to simulate a minimal washing. After drying, the lubes were placed on a piece of patch material which was firmly rubbed across the surfaces to simulate wiping a bore with a lubricated patch. The test pieces were then placed in a (100%) humidity box in a stand so that they would not touch any surface and kept in a warm environment for two months.

    The Lubes And Their Results:
    The following lubes were used; the letter codes refer to the photograph:
    • (LV) Lehigh Valley Lube - A water/alcohol soluble patch lube.

    • (FP) FP-10 - A very good gun oil.

    • (AH) "Airgun Honey" - An unusual patch lube with high slickness.

    • (WL) Good old Wonder Lube.

    • (EZ) EEzOx - A gun preservative which leaves a waxy deposit after application. ………..”

    • and much more

    Nice short report……………..good site

    Preservation Oils, Lubricants, Grinding & Sharpening Stones, Files



    One oil does not fit all uses.

    Preservative oils are not created equal. Lubricating oils for machinery generally lack rust proofing qualities. Shafts on food grinders, choppers, strainers, etc, should be lubricated with food grade oil, which usually means olive oil, but for long term storage they should be preserved with rust preventative oil.

    “Squished bugs on a windshield is proof the slow/heavy bullet theory works.”

    the firing line has a thread

    Best oil to prevent rust? - Page 2 - The Firing Line Forums

    “Best oil to prevent rust?

    I was wondering what every one thinks is the best way to protect your guns. What oils or lubes seem to work the best for you? Right now I use Tetra Gun Oil. It seems to work well but man does it stink up the house! “ and much more

    And the gun zone did a little test

    The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test

    Rust Preventatives for Firearm
    by Robert P. Firriolo
    I am an anti-corrosion fanatic and a lubricant nut, ever in search of the best product to prevent rust and keep moving parts moving, whether on guns, on vehicles, or around the house and workshop. Maybe that's because when I make an investment in a firearm, a hand tool, a car, or whatever, I want it to last.

    Over the years I have accumulated numerous products that claim to lubricate and prevent rust. Some are dedicated gun-care products, and others are household and automotive products.

    So far, I have rarely been disappointed by one of these products so far as gun maintenance is concerned. But then again I will have to admit to being somewhat scrupulous about cleaning, lubing, and wiping down my guns with good a preservative to prevent rust.

    Recently I was inspired by a home test performed by a fellow member of the Curio & Relic FFL E-mail list. This industrious chap tested a few products he had on hand to see how they prevented rust, and reported back to the list over the course of a week or so.

    As fine a job as he did, he really didn't have too many products on hand to satisfy my own curious nature. After all, if all of the products I have used weren't tested, I wasn't happy.

    Thanks to all of the recent rain we had where I live, I found myself one summer weekend running my own tests. My goal was simply to see what products, when applied as I use them on firearms, would stave off rust the longest.”……………. And much more

    nice lube test

    Gun Lubricant Corrosion Tests - The Firearm Blog

    Gun Lubricant Corrosion Tests

    Posted in Guns & Gear, Shooting Accessories by Nicholas C with 98 Comments
    Tags: CLP, FrogLube, lubricant

    Graphite is commonly used as a dry lubricant. It's fine for steel, but it can cause a nasty reaction with aluminum (galvanic corrosion) and some other metals.




  2. stg58

    stg58 Monkey+++ Founding Member

    Thanks for posting.

    Rust never sleeps.
    Ganado likes this.
  3. Oltymer

    Oltymer Monkey++

    Many good products on the market and I've tried a lot of them. Carbon steel guns will eventually rust no matter what is used short of cosmoline, unless you are located in low humidity areas like southwest deserts or have them stored in a humidity controlled environment like some of the safes available.

    The US Military, as well as most others in the pre WWII era, used sperm whale oil on all small arms as it covered, lubricated and made a very good barrier against rust. During WWII the demand far outstripped the supply, as it was also used in the automobile industry and many others. Scientists developed a synthetic sperm whale oil which is now known as automatic transmission fluid.

    When I collected guns I would do inspections several times a month keeping rust at bay. I lived in the humid SE, and it is rough on carbon steel in this area.

    My safe queens and collection are all gone now, and I only have to worry about my tool - working guns. I had a major rust event several years ago during a move and my guns were stored in an area I didn't realize was very wet. The exteriors had some bad rust, but the bores and internals were fine as I always keep a light coat of WD-40 in them, and just wipe them dry before use. The exteriors cleaned up pretty good and now I just use tranny fluid on the exterior surfaces, which is working well for me. I check them about once a month, and it just takes a few minutes to inspect and put a fresh wipe of ATF on the exterior and fresh WD-40 in the bores.

    I can live with some rust on the exteriors of guns, as these are tool grade and not collectibles, and some missing blue from wear and scattered dark freckles of oiled rust actually looks pretty cool.

    One thing I have discovered is that WD-40 makes pretty good bore cleaner also, and seems to remove carbon and metal fouling about as well as Hoppes #9.

    I would advise anybody looking to purchase working grade guns to take a serious look at stainless steel and synthetic stocks, they both make sense in a high humidity environment. If your a collector, you will be busy keeping all your guns up to snuff, no matter what product you use.
    Bandit99 and GrayGhost like this.
  4. GrayGhost

    GrayGhost Monkey++

    Good post...thanks for sharing.

    A lightly coated rag with WD-40 works wonders on steel after handling the item. No rust here.
  5. duane

    duane Monkey+++

    Moderators, this a miss post, we need a copy of this in the resource area. I shoot muzzle loaders some, have a tractor and farm equipment, a green house with high humidity and full of garden tools and hydroponic equipment, a basement work shop, high carbon knives in my kitchen, preps, and such and rust is not something to take lightly. In New England, with the massive use of salt on the roads as a deicer, rust is the number one destroyer of cars, at this moment my truck has a bad brake line due to corrosion and I have to fix it today, so this post really caught my eye and It is something that I really need to think about in more detail.
  6. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    Don't use WD 40 on or near ammo it is a penitrant and will ruin the ammo .
    However wax is by far the oldest moisture resistant media. I was thinking of getting several brands of spray wax and giving them a try on various pieces to test resistant capacity to rust .
    Wax is cheap ,and can be applied in so many ways both to metals wood and fabric .
    The trouble with wax is removing it .
    They used it on ammo for a long time . I remember seeing it a lot as a kid.
    Ganado likes this.
  7. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    DSC00090.JPG For ammo, I usually vacuum seal as much as I plan to store long term. If I lived in Florida, I would seal smaller amounts, to minimize the air trapped inside. Where I live now, packs of 1,000 for .22lr suits me fine. I might go down to packs of 200 if I lived in Florida. A vacuum sealer is not expensive, you can buy a base model (manual operation) for about $80 (Foodsaver brand), and rolls of their quality bags isn't too expensive if you add in the cost of what you are storing. Wait for sales and buy the bags and store them up.

    As long as the vacuum bag is not punctured, you shouldn't get rust or corrosion.

    The same applies to most tools and other metal objects. The trick is finding a way to vacuum seal them sometimes!
    I use "Loksak" for my long guns, for long term storage and for bug out for vehicle use.
    As for the type of protectant, I use my own Fix'n Wax on some items. I also use various grease and desiccants, too.

    It's tough down in Florida.
    Ganado likes this.
  8. arleigh

    arleigh Goophy monkey

    You could probably use an oxygen absorber and get the same results.
  9. Cruisin Sloth

    Cruisin Sloth Special & Slow

    wash / clean if you can b4 firing
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