Lets go "PYRO"! Sounds scary, right? (Not from me! Never...) I'm easy! Ok, some of you may have seen those small "party poppers" you can buy almost anywhere today... They look like mini-champagne bottles,( multi colored plastic) have a single pull string, and they "pop", shooting out confetti strands of fine paper into the air...Yeehaw! But you can make them work for you, and have a really good signalling device in the end. I do NOT advent the use of anything that can do harm to anyone or any animal..( NOW That's illegal!) Now days you can get about a dozen of these for a dollar or more.... You can use these as is, but they are not very useful that way... I remove the cardboard disc at the bottom, then dump the coils of paper confetti out, then I remove the next cardboard disc. There is a small (miniature) firecracker inside. You can't pull it out! ( it can be reomoved but no need to do that)You can now use this as is, and tie it to any number of things, but be aware they are NOT waterproof! (seal with wax or silicone!) You can lenghten the pull string by tying ( it's a real pain!) a longer piece of string to the original, or by gluing one to it. ( easier for us guys with big clumsy fingers!) You tie the "bottle" (around the "neck" area) to a tree, a limb, a rock, whatever, and then gently stretch and tie off the pullstring to a secure place. When the string is pulled, you get a nice report. You can "modify" these, as I have mine, but I HIGHLY do NOT recommend for YOU to do so. My land area is so large to cover, that I need a bit more "pop", to become a real "bang", Goex/Pyrodex gets me there! ( besides I have severe tinitis hearing loss!) I load the bottle with 50 grains, re-cover with the 2 pieces of carboard and epoxy it closed on the bottom. It is fierce. It is loud and makes a heck of an orange blast. Again, I do Not recommend that YOU do that! I've been doing this since I was 11, and yeah, I'm CRAZY! ( wonder why I have hearing loss now?) Another device is made from what is commonly known as: "boobytraps". (purchased very cheaply for many, on the net) Those are the 2 string type of firecracker/popper type of device. Still legal, so far anyway.( but they may not be too much longer) They are usable right out of the box. They are easy to use and set up. I like to add more string and tying more on is still not easy. So I epoxy additional line to the originals. Then you can put them all over the place and unless you have headphones on, are listeining to heavy metal, and oblivious to any other sounds around you, they will get your attention, especially at night! They are NOT huge by any means but they'll work! And of course, I have modified several of them. I use old empty aspirin bottles with the snap on or screw on lids....I drill (tiny) holes in the tops and bottoms....feed the strings out and load the bottles with all sorts of stuff! I tried flour once and that was fun, but not really what I wanted, so I added some 50 grains of Goex/Pyrodex, then sealed them with epoxy. The strings and holes can't be glued, so I use wax or silicone to make them waterproof. These are NOT toys. They are as real as a concussion device. They are very loud, very bright, and they put out a lot of white smoke too! These could easily remove a hand, in a heartbeat! I have modified some to not only use the Goex/Pyrodex for extra bang, but also as a delivery device to put a lot of cayenne pepper mix in the air...makes one heck of a cloud ( about 12 feet wide and 6-8 feet high). Man that realy keeps them coyotes at bay! Now, you could buy those 12 gauge units they sell, that can (supposedly) only use blanks....Those are dangerous, by any and all means. They will fire LIVE rounds and they can kill a person closer than 20 feet or more in a direct line using ONLY blanks! The shells wadding can, has, and does kill! Now you can find many places on the internet that sell some types of fireworks,some are already made, some you have to make. (It's best to have some real chemistry background though!) I found some that are not only smokes, but also have whistles as well! Now there's a device! They are great to set up in all kinds of areas. Personally I like 2 types combined...Audible: a report/bang/pop, or a shrill whistle and visual as well, such as smoke or even a ground flare or sparkler types. (Some are pullstring types, some require a fuse to be lit, all easily done, even if by electrical firing systems.) That way they work both day and night. You will see or hear something! Sure, the bad guys will too....That's the BEST part! The Psychological impact is fantastic! Can you imagine trying to sneak up and into an area, only to trip a device that shrieks like a banshee, and also sets off huge amounts of smoke or bright light? You'd wet yourself! ( See? I didn't say the bad thing!) I like that in a device! Nothing like loud sounds and brilliant lights to scare the pants off an intruder! Some freak out at the sight of smoke! Use your imagination! I also love to use aerial devices, (rockets), that shoot up screaming a loud shreik, putting out fantastic amounts of sparks and so on...you can even put a top on that makes one heck of a report and lots of pretty lights! Life is good!
I think you will find that "Set Guns" are Illegal in MOST States, so ANYTHING that uses Commercial AMMUNITION, will be considered a "Set Gun" and subject the Property Owner, to Felony Arrest, and when convicted, he/she will lose ALL their Gun Rights, as a Convicted Felon. So I would be VERY careful, in advocating building, or installing, such a device. ATF and local LEOs can't just ignore such devices, when discovered. ...... YMMV.....
In the Marine Corps what your talking about is called a "Non Lethal Path Guard" However trip lines have given way to photocells... ya see a can of silly string will reveal all... in other words the silly string will hang suspended in the air... but that's old school... nowadays the real bad guys use micro-switches and shadow bombs... no trip lines required... go check this out... you might like it... SHADOW ALARM | Hobby Circuits and Projects
Very nice! I like the shadow devices! Now about those 12 gauge units...they are NOT supposed to be used to injure, only as a signal. And they are only to be used with blanks... BUT since they can easily set off a 12 gauge blank round, ( 209 primed) they will most certainly do the same with a loaded commercial or hunting round. Even though they do NOT have a barrel, the close range effects would be horrendous. Now if a person was to install one say 8-10 feet or more up in a tree, tightly against a trunk, then using blanks as signals, that would be fine....As I said I do not ever advise, or in any way advocate, the use of any device that would injure, maim, or kill anyone. Simple devices such as: smokes, flares, whistles, all are safe and SANE! Use of electronic types, although they may be more sophisticated and cost more, they also prevent any unwanted side effects, such as FIRES! That's why I chose to put in several disclaimers about the use of certain things and methods, and why I do NOT EVER advise anyone, at anytime, for any reason, to use them! The whole idea and concept was to defend, by alert, not to attack. Although there are many things out there for sale, that is but ONE device that could be used, and if done so improperly or with malintent, it would be construed as an illegal device and "boobytrap" as defined under the law. Any number of things are illegal, such as mantraps/tigertraps/pits/punji stakes, and the list is endless.... The thing is, you use what is easiest and non-lethal, to ONLY signal that you have "visitors"! I don't make or buy the items you can find almost anywhere on sites, that I consider to be extremely dangerous for the buyer/user and anyone else that comes into contact with them.
I just read a good book on this subject (and most others regarding defending a location). I got it off of Amazon and its called "Holding Your Ground". The book talks about Area Denial Systems and Early Warning Systems, such as those described above. It even goes through how to make your own early warning system out of mouse traps and shotgun shells. The best part was using cargo nets over your windows to stop "brake and rake" type attacks.
There is one small problem with using those mousetrap and shotshell devices... IF and ONLY if they are blanks, other then that, it's a really BIG NO NO! Now Long long ago, and in a land far far away..... I have seen these and I have had to disarm a few. You see they were used to kill and maim our soldiers in that great southeast training area some of us refer to as: The Republic of South Vietnam! (Mousetrap devices are extremely sensitive and dangerous, I'd rather juggle nitro on a hot sunny day!) With that having been clarified, yes, you could use them or rat traps...and You can make up a round that will sound a decent enough "report" to get your attention. ( just using ONLY the primers!) OR,.... They would still be classified as a"boobytrap" and I am certain you have a LOT better things to do with the next 10 years of your life and $100,000! I know I most certainly do! "They cannot be used or modified in any way, shape, or form, to fire any live rounds." ( now that's gonna be really hard to accomplish!) Today, I'd bet you'd rather NOT try it, just for the heck of being SAFE! As for windows, personally due to the wind, cold weather, and all that happiness, I'd use shutters made of heavy wood. ( 1 inch or better) If you are concerned about the wood being easily defeated, you could put the shutters inside and they will work just as well...You could also cover your windows on the exterior with simple expanded metal sheets ( some call it diamond wire) Makes for a lousy bug screen though! Not much there will stop a round from penetrating, and wood burns, so I'd "double up" and use a combination of the 2 methods. If the idea is to stop intruders, it's a task. You can deter and even impede their progress a bit...but stopping is a whole 'nother can of worms! Wrought iron window and door guards seem to be the "norm" in many places anymore. You just have to be absolutely certain that you can exit rapidly in case of fire or another tragic event. If you choose to do so, you can make them yourself, that will be exactly what you want and as heavy as you think you'll need. Mine are ALL interior bars. The windows have to be broken first, then inside there are rows of metal bars that would have to cut in order to gain entry. Many ways to defeat that problem also... A battery operated "sawzall" or even a small "hand held grinder" can cut very quickly through most metals. Even hacksaws or a skilsaw with a metal cutting blade is a nasty to deal with. ( most bad guys won't be dragging along a generator with them though!) But it all depends on IF you use soild or hollow bars! Solid bars made of high carbon steel would be tough to get through in diameters from 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. The cost would be horendous! If you chose to use hollow types you have alternatives. I have used 2 types of bars. Both are the hollow types, and both are made of very lightweight EMT tubing. They are both made in the 3/4 inch diameters. Now for the part that matters most: Securing those bars is utmost in the integrity. Secondary is what you put INSIDE of those bars! I have used 5/8 inch rebar pieces, (free floating) so that they will roll or spin as it is engaged by a cutting tool. It's tough enough to damage most blades and cause grinding wheels to shatter. Then I have also used alternating bars (always keep the bad guys guessing!) filled with stuff from rebar to fine rocks. (Now that's something you will NOT find in any book out there.) Rocks will tear the living daylights out of anything it encounters! No matter what kind of blade is being used in an attempt to breach your bars....Small rocks will jam anything short of a diamond blade ( and please, don't try it!) even those diamond edged rock cutting blades and masonry blades are designed to cut through SOLID materials, NOT loose stones. ( They can and will blow up ( disintegrate) into pieces (shrapnel) that will really do some serious damage to the operator/s of the device/s being used!) So there you have it! You can effectively deny access via your windows and use the same system over your doors. I hope that helps...
Tell you a llittle trick I did is I have privacy fence I took barb wire and standed across the top pulled it good and tight right on top of the wood of the fence then took a hammer and recessed it it to the wood then used a few small seeples. I have found someb bloody spots on my fence but have yet found where anyone has got over. Then the back of my fence is six foot chain link runs across the bottom of a almost straight up and down hill I blanted some shrubs that has thorn and heay leaves year around and under these I have several 6ftx4in thin meatal strips with 3iv galvinize screws and then barba wire just in lose rolls stretched under the bushes. (well thats where I store my lose wire and screw strips at) so I stay in the city code about having stuff stacked in plain view.
