After a quick search I didn't see any posts on the subject. If you don't have any trees or wood power line poles around you may not need a chain saw. The first thing you need to know about chain saws is they are dangerous. Way more dangerous than a gun and will kill you the first chance they get. Chainsawing through minor disasters up and down the east coast from 2006 to 2014 from thunderstorms and hurricanes when I was at Langley to ice storms in Maine I have discovered a few things about the little tool. I will go over type size and power that I think is handy to have. The type, first off the cheap saws are just that. Junk. I can only recommend stihl, echo and shindowa. Huskys are ok. I have never used them but I see a lot of complaints about the oil system clogging up or the oil pump burning up. Size matters. Get at least 16 or 18 inch bar. This is your most common size and you will have a lot of selection. If you have a lot of large very old growth trees hanging out next to your favorite road and around your home may even want to go up to like a 24 to 25 inch bar. But at 24 inches and up saws start getting expensive. Most of the time you just don't need a big saw. A 16 inch will be fine for most home owners. Engine size matters, anything less than a 30cc engine is almost useless. 40 to 50cc is where you want to be, lots of saws in that size range developing around 4hp. I would rather buy a used [any of the above mentioned saws] off craigs list than get somthing something new from Lowes, walmart or even sears. Chain saw chains. Not all are created equal. Not even remotely. I guess in a nutshell I could break it down into 4 categories. Safety chain. Low profile High profile Carbide Then you have normal and skip link chain. Skip link is 1 cutter and 2 non cutting links, where normal chain has a cutter every other link. The whole point is to slow down the rate of cutting. Over a certain bar length skip link becomes nessary as the chain will cut so much wood so fast it will clog it's self with chips. Most of your consumer chain saws will come with idiot proof safety chain. This stuff sucks for normal applications. You have a skip link chain, with a fake buffer link that doesn't do anything on but create friction. The good news is all safety chain can be replaced with something decent. The only thing I would use safety chain for is when teaching someone new about saws. If you never used a chain saw before lead with this chain. Or if I was doing demo work and knew I would probably be destroying a chain. Low profile chain. It has lower profile cutters. It cuts a little slower and does not have as much kick back potential as high profile. All of your safety chain is going to be a low profile design and can be replaced with normal low profile chain. High profile has big full chisel cutters. For cutting quickly through large wood. High profile cutters are big so in addition to gouging out bigger wood chips you can also sharpen them more times before they wear out. Big saws with longer bars will use high profile skip link chain. Carbide. This is your post apocalyptic must have chain. Comes in high and low profile, just about all sizes. This is what the fire department uses to saw through metal or asphalt shingles. A normal chain saw chain will be rendered useless after about 4 seconds of trying to cut through asphalt shingles if it's not totally ruined. This stuff is very expensive. $40 to $70 per chain. I got my first one for $40 off an eBay auction, should be here any day now if I want additional ones that will be $73 plus sales tax at my local stihl dealer. The draw back to Carbide chain is it has to be sharpened with a grinding type sharpener. No files. Then you have Oregon and stihl chain. I used Oregon for as long as I can remember till I a few years ago when I moved here and the only place in town that could break and make chain was the stihl dealer. If you look at Oregon chain at Lowes versus the stihl dealer there isn't really a huge price difference. Stihl chains don't really cost that much more than the cheap stuff. But you really get what you pay for. To me the difference between Oregon and stihl chain is with an Oregon chain you will have to stop and tighten a new chain several times before it's broken in. Stihl chain needs to be tightened maybe once and after you have been using it for a while. With dirty wood the stihl chain stays sharper at least twice as long. The draw back the harder stihl chain is more difficult to file sharpen and may eat up files a little faster. The most important thing with chains is have more than one. If you live in a fairly wet, dust free place and only ever cut clean green wood then Oregon chain will be fine. Later I will go over setup, use and care.