Whats Junes topic? Water of course so here is a little about using the water in your water heater for drinking. Lets say you cant put up rain barrels or store a lot water for some reason, or maybe you just want every available drop of water to be drinkable. To weather short term water service disruptions with out major water storage you likely have a water heater right? Then chances are it holds at least 40 to 50 gallons doesn't it? Now you are thinking, water service gets disrupted you will just drink it? Wrong. Chances are unless you have a premium line water heater then it likely has an aluminum sacrificial anode. This device uses the anode cathode relationship between aluminum, steel and water to keep the steel tank from rusting out. The problem is the aluminum anode is sacrificial, that means as it gets used up and the byproducts settle to the bottom of the tank in the form of a crystal filled sludge. Most of the aluminum byproducts of an aluminum anode oxidizing are generally not water soluble and most importantly these byproducts are not good for you. There are a few reports of people for some reason or another getting desperate enough to try and drink whats left in the hot water tank via the drain. From what I have read this causes almost most immediate debilitating arthritis that never fully goes away. So its bad for you, don't take any chances. The aluminum salts likes to attack joints. In a premium water heater they don't normally use aluminum anodes. Most of the time the premium water heaters use a powered anode or a magnesium sacrificial anode. The powered anode uses external power of a watt or 2 to make the anode have a positive charge, attracting all the oxidizing agents to its self. The traditional sacrificial anodes use the potential difference created between the anode and the steel tank created by dissimilar metals in an electrolyte. So to reach the zen of achieving full preparedness you should be able to use the last 40 or so gallons even in your water heater. So you will want to have this magnesium or powered anode to do so. Most of the magnesium compounds produced by the anode action are water soluble so they collect on the bottom and I think most people would agree magnesium is a lot better for you than aluminum. The powered anode should also not create anything that will collect in the bottom of the tank. Now certain compounds do become less soluble as the temperature increases, these will collect in the bottom of the water heaters tank. Since these compounds are already in the water they shouldn't be too bad for you. But you should still flush the water heater once or twice a year, or before any impending disaster. Can you convert an aluminum anode to a prepper friendly magnesium or powered anode? Sure, but good luck getting all the aluminum salts out of your water heater unless you are willing to completely remove it, tip it up on its side and flush everything out. I spent hours doing an in place flushing out of my aluminum anode contaminated gas water heater this spring and still didn't get it all. To make flushing a breeze I connected the T/P safety valve drain line that already dumps outside to the drain valve, now all I do is open the drain for a few minutes and reclose the drain and the flush is complete, no more dirty garden hose running through the house. To get your self a powered anode or a magnesium anode I say go to waterheaterrescue dot com. That is where my friend and I got our magnesium anodes from (my house has an addition and therefor has 2 water heaters, his house has 1 water heater). Get the longest anode that will fit and don't run it down to the steel supporting wire, you have to replace these things every few years, so pull them and check them every year or so. Your water heater will almost never go bad so long as you keep a good anode in it. Plus not calling a plumber out to replace a water heater means more money for other preps.